AMD's 1968 MF 135

   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #71  
Everything had been going well with the tractor until the 22nd of Dec - got home from work and needed to blow snow. Had the tractor plugged in while I was out, so started and went in to see wifey and son and get changed. Came out to find a puddle of oil under the tractor which was pouring out of the filter assembly at the top. I tightened the bolt as a first fix, and added oil and it seemed to stop leaking. I watched it as I blew snow and twice more it started leaking (not as badly though). I did decide that I was going to convert to a screw-on filter though - I got the parts at the local dealer and the conversion went smoothly. When I removed the old filter cartridge and assembly I saw this:
View attachment 352469

Very evident what the problem was - the gasket had swollen in three places and was very hard. Has anyone else ever seen this happen? The filter (along with gaskets) had only been changed in the summer so age shouldn't have been an issue. Anyway, I've now eliminated that with the spin-on!

Also got lights working over the holidays!
View attachment 352470

Didn't recognize the filter and looked back in the thread to find you had a perkins diesel. I have a continental. Are you running any oil additive that the probable buna o-ring did not like, otherwise I have no idea what would cause the deformation. Great looking lights. I like the combination of the front grill and flat fender lights. It looks like you have the rear work light fixed also. I bet that makes working at night a whole lot easier.

namyessam
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#72  
Didn't recognize the filter and looked back in the thread to find you had a perkins diesel. I have a continental. Are you running any oil additive that the probable buna o-ring did not like, otherwise I have no idea what would cause the deformation. Great looking lights. I like the combination of the front grill and flat fender lights. It looks like you have the rear work light fixed also. I bet that makes working at night a whole lot easier.

namyessam

Nope, no additives being used at all - just 15W40. It just seemed very odd to me that a few days before it had run fine and then all of a sudden the deformed o-ring. We had a cold snap, down to below -20C but that wasn't the first time that had happened either...

The fenders were originally from an industrial model the dealer told me, and there are 2 lights facing back just like forward. They had a red film over them originally I'm assuming maybe to be used as a brake? I peeled the film off and wired them to allow both to serve as work lights. Of course with the holidays and being off work I've had no need to blow at night yet so haven't been able to give the lights a true test - I'll report when I do!

Guess neither of us got that new tractor from Santa, eh?
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #73  
AMD;3594049Guess neither of us got that new tractor from Santa said:
Actually, shortly after I wrote that message, I was looking at this forum and Mrs. Clause said to me, "I'm getting concerned with all the work you do to keep that tractor running. Are you going to want to keep doing that after you retire when we build the house on the acreage. you are going to need a tractor that won't need so much care. Why don't you sell that tractor and I will buy you a new one while I am still working." Well, I've started looking and dreaming, seeing visions of $$$ signs dance in my head wondering how to justify it. I can't, but how can I pass up an offer like that.

namyessam
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #74  
I had a 135 with a perkins for 27 years and I never had an "O" ring fail like that
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Actually, shortly after I wrote that message, I was looking at this forum and Mrs. Clause said to me, "I'm getting concerned with all the work you do to keep that tractor running. Are you going to want to keep doing that after you retire when we build the house on the acreage. you are going to need a tractor that won't need so much care. Why don't you sell that tractor and I will buy you a new one while I am still working." Well, I've started looking and dreaming, seeing visions of $$$ signs dance in my head wondering how to justify it. I can't, but how can I pass up an offer like that.

namyessam

That sounds like a green light to me!! But I'd be in the same boat as you - hard to justify all that money. But I'm sure the tractor hunting would be enjoyable > Good luck if you decide to go for it!!
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#76  
I had a 135 with a perkins for 27 years and I never had an "O" ring fail like that

I guess I'm just lucky - I haven't even had mine for a year! At least I do know it won't happen to me again though!

The dealer said the only issues he'd heard of with them was if they weren't seated properly in the groove - but that doesn't appear to have been my problem. The ring was seated properly every where else except for where it swelled. I still wonder if it had something to do with the extreme temperature swings we'd been having.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#77  
Finally had a chance to put my lights to the test last night while blowing and I must say it was a treat to have them! Only negative was that one of the bulbs blew after about 5 minutes - I guess not surprising since the previous owner never used them so it's unknown how old they are. Just need to find a good place to get them now...
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #78  
Others have said that "we" should be able to raise and lower the three point from the left hand lever. I have never been able to do that. I have to have the left lever pulled toward the seat and held to either raise or lower the three point using the controls on the right side of the seat. Then to use the loader I have to move the left lever to the center position and keep the position lever pulled all the way back on the right side of the seat in the constant pumping position. I cannot use the loader and three point at the same time. If you have the left lever pulled and try to run the loader the three point does strange things. As I noted in my above post. My loader lifts when I pull the right hand lever toward the seat and lowers pushed away. I never need to move the position or draft lever to raise or lower the loader. You need to hook the hose to the loader to the correct fitting to raise while pulling the right lever toward the seat. Then you should be able to lower the loader by pushing the lever away from the seat. If you don't change the hose location, you will need to screw that valve back in I think.
I have the same problem with the trip bucket. I have since added a front pump to the tractor that I use to raise and lower the loader and have added a cylinder to the oversized snow bucket for dumping using the standard tractor hydraulics. In time I intend to change to a joystick and run both from the front pump. I still use the trip for the dirt bucket. I know its awkward moving the lever back and forth to change from loader to three point but you will get used to it.

I have been doing some web surfing lately since the weather has been so rough and ran across an owners manual for the auxiliary valves we have on our tractors along with intructions for operation with single and double acting cylinders in various applications. In my quote and as others have stated that we should be able to operate our three points with the left hand lever and neither one of us could get it to operate in this way. Well, in this manual it states to do this with a double spool valve, place the draft lever in the transport position and the position lever in the constant pumping position. Remember the screw on the front of the valve you unscrewed on the right hand valve to operate the single acting lift cylinders for the loader, the screw on the left hand valve has to be turned out as well. You then should be able to operate the three point with the left hand lever. I have not had a chance to try this, but in earlier attempts, I don't believe I had the position lever in the constant pumping position and am not sure what position the the screw on the front of the valve is in. It seems that if we are able to operate in this way it may eliminate the need to move our hands back and forth from the auxiliary valve to the position lever to operate the loader and three point. You can access this manual by googling "massey ferguson 135 auxiliary valve instructions" It looks like it comes from somewhere overseas. Its in a pdf format. The text is readable but the pictures referenced in it are not very good. Hope all is well and this helps.

namyessam
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #79  
I ran across another thread that explained operating the TPH with an auxiliary valve. It did not however mention about unscrewing the switch valve the same as for use with a single acting cylinder. It did mention that if it is used in this way the TPH will not maintain a constant height as when you use the position lever and lock the left hand valve back toward the seat. Due to wear and leakby in the lift cylinder the TPH will start to lower over time. Since pressurized oil is flowing though the auxiliary valve and back to tank when the left hand lever is in the center position on the auxiliary valve and the position lever is in the constant pumping position, pressurized oil is only directed to the lift cylinder when you pull back on the left hand lever.

How is a snow blower positioned when you are blowing snow, do you position it close to the ground without touching or rest it on the ground on runners? This may determine which way you operate the TPH. I am interested trying this out on my tractor when I get back to it. If someone has any other information on this please add to this or correct me. I want to get this figured out.

namyessam
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#80  
Thanks for this namyessam - I'll certainly have to take a look and play around. The loader already seems to work this way so it makes sense that the TPH should too; although I wonder if the screw on the left valve is the difference. I believe I'm always in constant pumping position already so the only difference I'd think would be the screw. Will check when I have a chance.

How is a snow blower positioned when you are blowing snow, do you position it close to the ground without touching or rest it on the ground on runners? This may determine which way you operate the TPH.

My snowblower has runners that rest on the ground 95% of the time so it wouldn't be an issue with gradual lowering as long as it stays up long enough for transport or quick clean-up tasks.

I've never used the position lever the way you mention with the left hand valve locked back - I always just have the position lever in the furthest most up or down position and raise or lower to the desired height with the lever and then place it back to center. Thinking about it more I'm kind of operating it in a hybrid of the two ways you explain If I understand correctly...?

AMD
 
 
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