Amp gauge switch to volt gauge

[tomcat48nov]

Switching from amp gauge to volt gauge and need to know if I need to just connect wires from both sides of amp gauge together.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yes, but put them on some sort of isolated post to be on the safe side.

 

[tomcat48nov]

Yes, but put them on some sort of isolated post to be on the safe side.

Thank you will do.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

NO!! Unless the ammeter is a modern one which reads via induction, the current from the alternator/generator flows though the ammeter. Connect the input and output from the ammeter together. This allows the current to continue flowing.

Then run a new wire from battery positive terminal to the voltmeter and connect another lead to a chassis ground.

The ammeter is a better gauge to have if your alternator output is low enough to keep from burning it up. Most tractor alternators are below 90-amp output and work well with 100-amp ammeters. This one on Amazon will handle any alternator or generator I've seen. https://www.amazon.com/KUS-Waterpro...auges+52mm&qid=1745355202&s=automotive&sr=1-4

 

[WranglerX]

Typically a volt meter is wired from positive (+) side of meter to any terminal on switch that goes to "ON" whenever tractor is in "run" mode.... Negative side of meter (-) to ground...

Don't know exactly what amperage output you alternator is but typically they are minimal, MY sub compact only has a 40 AMP alternator yours will vary according to manufacture's specification.....A 150 -/+ reading amp meter is barely going to move if you have low output alternator.... And since you want to do away with ammeter not sure why "jigs" specified one....

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Because the ammeter is a better gauge to have than a voltmeter and will let you know about issues with the charging system before things quit working. The auto manufacturers transitioned to volt meters, as they went to more accessories and higher output alternators, and the voltmeter became less expensive than the ammeter. The modern induction ammeters and combination voltmeter/ammeter units tell you a lot more about the state of the charging system, than a voltmeter ever can. Voltmeter basically says something is broke.

I showed that ammeter to show you can get them in any range you need from 20-amp to 150-amp for reasonable cost.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

NO!! Unless the ammeter is a modern one which reads via induction, the current from the alternator/generator flows though the ammeter. Connect the input and output from the ammeter together. This allows the current to continue flowing.

Then run a new wire from battery positive terminal to the voltmeter and connect another lead to a chassis ground.

Of course the two leads need to be connected, but that doesn't mean they cant be put together on an isolated post. At least I'd rather have them secured that just bolted together and free floating behind the dash.

Modern induction amp meter? Like on Sixties British cars?

And why would anyone want a volt meter that's always on, which it would be if connected directly to the battery.

I'd prefer to have both, but if I can only have one it'll be a volt meter. Lots to tell from what they show.

 

[WranglerX]

One of those stupid Chinese under $3 digital volt meters will tell you exactly what's going on in car/truck/tractor electrical system, you just have to know how to read it....

I put these on my riding mowers on my tractor and have one on long cord that plugs into cigarette lighter socket so I can monitor battery when out of cab doing tricky winch jobs....