GrantMO – Well I am assuming (which is bad from the start to assume) you mean 3000 or 5000 miles and not hours. Here is how I would answer your questions. (1) If you are going only 5,000 miles on synthetic and 3,000 miles on regular oil you are wasting money in both applications. The only answer I will give you is that no car manufacture states that you must go 3,000 then change oil and filter! This is the biggest myth out there! If you are using gas engine the miles will be around 7,000 miles and if diesel it will be around 5,000 miles. These values are all using regular oil. If you use synthetic you can safely double in diesel and triple in gas engines. Again that is if your automobile is running in the proper state. (2) yes it would make sense to change to synthetic HYD fluid because if will have less chatter, better in cold temps and will [in general] lower HYD temps around 20 degrees. This result is longer life for rear end. (3) yes and no. Some companies like Amsoil and Fleetguard require that you use their filters to benefit the most and you can go longer in between filter changes. Using other company oil filters you must change at the regular oil filter interval and others filters filter less. (4) No, Changing over to synthetic will not hurt anything. If you get gasket leaks it is because there was slug in the engine from using poor oils in the tractors history. You would eventually get leaks anyways. All the synthetic oil is doing is cleaning out the slug; the slug might be acting like a gasket, hence leaks might happen. If you have been real good in oil changing and using a good regular oil you will be okay. I have seen many people change to synthetic oil well over 100K miles and no leaks. Tractors I have seen over 100 hours and over 700 hours and no problems.
Kubota can’t deny warranty service because of using different oils or different drains. I would say prove it to me that the oil was the #1 causes of any problems? They can’t. My dealers are not the best but I don’t put up with the dealers BS thinking he can do whatever he wants. If you start “stirring up the pot” they will listen. I love it when some service manager that basically knows nothing outside of what he is told or literature his boss tells him or her to read tells me what I can and can’t do to my tractor or other item. I tell them to show me in print and not in some sales brochure that I have to follow their recommendations 100% or step for step. They can’t and they try to make you feel bad or put worries in your head. Give me a break! I love that dealer crap. Enough said on that /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.
Putty – If you have problem with dirt you have any air filter problem and not an oil problem. If you are using an excellent oil filter you need not worry. Do you have a high silicone rate when testing oil? If you have never tested oil I don’t think you know for sure that you have a dirt problem. Yes manufactures are dealing with this problem. They have for sometime. The additive package will have good soot control to keep the dirt in the oil and thus the dirt or silicone will go to the filter and get filtered.
Richard – If you know any people you can get it cheaper, for example, Amsoil 100% Synthetic 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine for around $3.30 per quart (dealer price). Friends don’t let friend pay retail /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. I also think the filter price 3 to 5 times is a bit high or very high I think. For example, my Powerstroke, Amsoil oil filters are around $13 and Ford filters are around $10 at Wally world. Yes the detergents and additives might have a problem but I highly doubt it. I have used LE, Amsoil, and Mobil in my Ford before staying with Amsoil and never had a problem. So I agree with you and not the others. Yes Amsoil has the best oil filters out there. The Amsoil filters are made by Baldwin (hint hint). I run extended drains or extended runs again on my Powerstroke and don’t have a problem. I go around 12K on oil and filter. I change oil filter with 6,000 miles. I have done oil analysis to prove oil is okay and to see if it is better than other (yes it was). You don’t need any special oil filtration system to run extended drains. If you want to go around 20 to lets say 100K on oil (1) oil change you need a special oil filtration system called a By-pass filter.
If you did a cost analysis of only cost than you would be ahead, only in up front cost, but you are forgetting the benefits, like better a starting in cold climates, more MPG, less wear, extended drains, etc.
Also why are you running Seriesd 3000 in tractor? Amsoil is $8.10 A QUART FOR PURE SYNTHETIC and $4-5 for a synthetic blend is retail price.
Man, It feels like I am writing a book!!!! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Thanks
Mike
Like I told my last ex-wife, I only drive as fast as I can see...and besides, It's all in the reflexes
-Jack Burton, Big Trouble in Little China
Kubota can’t deny warranty service because of using different oils or different drains. I would say prove it to me that the oil was the #1 causes of any problems? They can’t. My dealers are not the best but I don’t put up with the dealers BS thinking he can do whatever he wants. If you start “stirring up the pot” they will listen. I love it when some service manager that basically knows nothing outside of what he is told or literature his boss tells him or her to read tells me what I can and can’t do to my tractor or other item. I tell them to show me in print and not in some sales brochure that I have to follow their recommendations 100% or step for step. They can’t and they try to make you feel bad or put worries in your head. Give me a break! I love that dealer crap. Enough said on that /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.
Putty – If you have problem with dirt you have any air filter problem and not an oil problem. If you are using an excellent oil filter you need not worry. Do you have a high silicone rate when testing oil? If you have never tested oil I don’t think you know for sure that you have a dirt problem. Yes manufactures are dealing with this problem. They have for sometime. The additive package will have good soot control to keep the dirt in the oil and thus the dirt or silicone will go to the filter and get filtered.
Richard – If you know any people you can get it cheaper, for example, Amsoil 100% Synthetic 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine for around $3.30 per quart (dealer price). Friends don’t let friend pay retail /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. I also think the filter price 3 to 5 times is a bit high or very high I think. For example, my Powerstroke, Amsoil oil filters are around $13 and Ford filters are around $10 at Wally world. Yes the detergents and additives might have a problem but I highly doubt it. I have used LE, Amsoil, and Mobil in my Ford before staying with Amsoil and never had a problem. So I agree with you and not the others. Yes Amsoil has the best oil filters out there. The Amsoil filters are made by Baldwin (hint hint). I run extended drains or extended runs again on my Powerstroke and don’t have a problem. I go around 12K on oil and filter. I change oil filter with 6,000 miles. I have done oil analysis to prove oil is okay and to see if it is better than other (yes it was). You don’t need any special oil filtration system to run extended drains. If you want to go around 20 to lets say 100K on oil (1) oil change you need a special oil filtration system called a By-pass filter.
If you did a cost analysis of only cost than you would be ahead, only in up front cost, but you are forgetting the benefits, like better a starting in cold climates, more MPG, less wear, extended drains, etc.
Also why are you running Seriesd 3000 in tractor? Amsoil is $8.10 A QUART FOR PURE SYNTHETIC and $4-5 for a synthetic blend is retail price.
Man, It feels like I am writing a book!!!! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Thanks
Mike
Like I told my last ex-wife, I only drive as fast as I can see...and besides, It's all in the reflexes
-Jack Burton, Big Trouble in Little China
