Another 8n side mount

[8NLUGNUT]

I thought I should update the thread this morning and ask for some advice as to where my spark went.

I've been in and out of the hospital a few times since I started this project and for the last few weeks I started working on finish it.

I got everything done except the new wiring harness.

Here's my problem.

I had spark when I started and in fact I had spark during my wiring project but it disappeared never to be found again.

I've rewired, new points, new condenser, new coil, cleaned the distributor out remounted new points and nothing.

I've done this same process with new points, condenser, coil twice now and nothing.

I've got power going into and out of the coil, and power to the points when open. No spark.

I've cleaned the points and gapped the points .025.

Nothing.

Am I missing something obvious?

 

[ToadHill]

Do you have spark from the wire from the coil to the distributor? Wire could be broken. If yes, is something grounding the contact from the outside of the distributor to the pickup on the points, or are the points themselves grounded and the power is not able to jump the gap?

 

[Soundguy]

jump power from the bat to incoming primary of coil.. from there verify you have a good wire out to the feed thru bushing ont he distrib and power to the points.. when points close, and then open you should get a spark. verify points are closing with an ohm meter ( disconnect power ) or a test lamp.. might have some varnish from the manufacturing process on the new points.

soundguy

 

[8NLUGNUT]

I have 12volts from the negative side of the coil to the points.

With the points open I have 12volts on one side of the points.

Closed I have nothing.

When I open and close I get no spark.

I've used the cheap Indian made and US made points. I've scratched the surface of the point with a file, emory board, sand paper and nothing.

What am I missing? It's got to be something obvious.

 

[Soundguy]

did you jump power directly to the incoming side of the coil?

so far what you have observed is correct.

Now.. check power on incoming side of coil.. should be bat volts points open or closed, assuming no resistors ahead of the coil.

if it drops to less than bat volts.. IE.. much less than 8, when points are closed.. then the key switch ore wire before the coil is bad.. that's why the jumper wire test is a good one.

If the power is good.. then I suspect the coil secondary.

pull coil.. measure tower to either side contact.. should be in the neighborhook of 4-8K ohms.. and from side to side about 3 or so depending on coil make.

post back.

are points buring? if so, then condensor is open..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

forgot to mention.. with an analog meter, you can semi-check the condensor...

take it out.. touch pigtail to case, then place ohms on low scale on analog meter.. touch brobes across case and pigtail.. needle should swing from 0 to infinity.. if it does.. condensor is *likely* good.

post back

soundguy

 

[8NLUGNUT]

I had 12 volts at the battery.

With the points open, (note the piece of cardboard holding the points open)

I had 10 volts through the switch, + and - side of the coil, and at the + side of the points.

With the points closed I had zero volts in the system.

I even tried bypassing the switch by going from the battery to the points! WOW! That was electrifying!

The extra jolt of electricity made me remember I should go to the coil from the battery instead of to the points to check the switch.

Bingo. I bypassed the switch and got spark at the points!

What chaps me about the whole thing is me. I just couldn't imaging that a brand new keyed switch could be causing problems out of the box.

I could have kept the old automotive one that worked fine but I don't like doing that.

Now I can finish up and get that thing out to the ranch just in time for our spring food plots!

Thanks for getting me back on course Soundguy and ToadHill!

 

[Soundguy]

as soon as you said points open and 10v at the switch i didn't even need to read furthere.

open circuit should be full voltage at all places before ground...

bad switches come up from time to time...

glad ya got her done!

soundguy

 

[8NLUGNUT]

as soon as you said points open and 10v at the switch i didn't even need to read furthere.

open circuit should be full voltage at all places before ground...

bad switches come up from time to time...

glad ya got her done!

soundguy

Sound guy,

You got me to thinking.

I'm putting the homemade wiring harness back on and I decided that I should investigate as to what might make a brand new key switch not function properly.

I pealed back the connector boots and low and behold the wires were corroded. Some of the strand were completely eaten through.

Oh well. So much for (NEW) parts. From now on I'm checking everything I can.

 

[Soundguy]

yellow one's not bad.. but that black one looks nasty!

might be corosion inside the switch as well..

soundguy