another 8n that wont start.

[Soundguy]

If it has good compression and good blue spark, then try starting it on starter fluid sprayed in pulses at the carb inlet.. if it runs on start fluid but dies when you stop.. it's not getting fuel ( assuming spark is blue.. not orange. ).

a comp tester is cheap or free ( rental ).. I'd get one.

soundguy

 

[strum456]

Do what sound guy said. If it does not respond to ether, go to advance and borrow a tester for free. I bet it fires on either though...carbs are the problem more often than not.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Be sure to use fresh gas. Old gas will not fire very well. Also even though you see a spark file the points. I have fought engines that have been sitting many times and you get a spark but for some reason is not as hot as it should be. Filing the points cleans a little corrosion off of them, even new ones, but especially older ones. It's helped me start several engines that had fuel, air and spark but would not start.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd save filing as a near last resort. coarse clean paper like grocery bag or stiff typing paper cleanes points well.

sanding points inevetably shortens their life, and usually leaves grit behind as few go bak and clean the points with paper.. also makes an uneven contact surface and on the micro scale, it leaves ridges and scratches that cause hot spots and arcing.. same with filing.. can creat a not square hit... a pro with a real ignition hone can dress a set a couple times with a single stroke without limiting their life too much.. but it's a mostly lost art, and most people grind away liek they are cutting wood with a hand saw... the hard coating on points is very, very thin.. once it's been filed or sanded away, the softer base metal of the contact wears much more quickly.. thus once you start fieling or sanding points, you have to KEEP filing or sanding points.. etc. so be carefull.

coarse clean paper is what I would use to clean a set.. if they are truly alread pitted or burnt, then you loose noting by filing them. if you sand them, at least clean with paper afterwards.. garnet grit is non conductive and a spacer..

for glazed points, the edge of a knife blade drug acorss with scrape the glaze off then you can clean with paper without removing any of that hard surface metal..

 

[Adj100]

alrighty...put in new 437 plugs and pulled the distributor apart to check it. Evenetually got in to turn over with alot of starting fluid in the card, half to full throttle and full choke closed.
Died quickly though, definatley still not getting fuel out of the carb.

Guess my carb cleaner did not do the trick and I will have to do more work on it.

Is there enough power in keyboard cleaner cans to blow out the parts? I do not have a compressor.

I will also be getting a new fuel filter as I was having some trouble with it leaking.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Ok to the basics. Pull the fuel line loose at the carb, open shut off valve. Do you get a nice full flow? If not work your way back to the tank till you do. If you do get a good flow it's back to the carb. Pull carb drain plug. Does it have a good flow after it dumps the bowl. I assume you will have a can to catch the running gas in when you do these test. If you have low/no flow at bowl look for clogged needle/seat. If you have good flow at bowl you have something clogging the fuel passage to the throat. Good Luck. these can be frustrating.

 

[Adj100]

definatley have good flow to the carb, ran a good bit through the gas line to drain the tank, before I got tired of it and just dropped the filter fitting off the bottom of the tank.

Unfortunately I cannot get the drain plug out of the carb, it appears to be siezed as someone at some point rounded the head off trying to get it out.

Carb bowl fills with fuel, so it appears to be between the bowl and ventricle that the issue is.

 

[Soundguy]

you do need to get that plug out.. even if you vice grip it or drill the center out.
a can of carb dip would be my choice.. then fine wire.. etc..


soundguy

 

[Adj100]

alrighty managed to get the main drain plug out. Anyone know what diameter and thread to use for a replacement.

The small secondary drain plug appears to be missing and welded over, does this just drain the main air intake?

Are the main nozzle and needle supposed to be straight or slightly bent? mine appears to be bent.

I think think the power jet may have been clogged with some rusty stuff, there is some rust in the carb.

Tommorrow I will pick up a gallon of carb cleaner.

 

[Soundguy]

the bowl drain is a common pipe plug.

the other was a vent.. if someone covered it up, they likely had a leaky flaot needle or flooded it alot and didn't like seeing gas leak there. not much you can do about that one.

the needles should not be bent.

soundguy