Another BX Chain Hook Option

ultrarunner · Dec 18, 2010

bx24 said:
OlderToday ... nice job on the hooks. I felt the same way - I did not like my options to tie down my BX. I added some spots in both the front and the back. I use the stronger chain in the back since I figured I would have exponentially more force on the tie downs when I hit the brakes than when I took off from an intersection

Off Topic... What do you use the 12v quick connect for shown in the last picture?

kday64 · Dec 19, 2010

bx24 said:
I use the stronger chain in the back since I figured I would have exponentially more force on the tie downs when I hit the brakes than when I took off from an intersection

BX24,

The hooks look awesome! Why do you transport your BX with the bucket pointing down? I would imagine that sudden stopping and shifting would put unneeded stress onto the cylinders and pistons on the FEL.

~Kevin

radioman · Dec 20, 2010

kday64 said:
BX24,

The hooks look awesome! Why do you transport your BX with the bucket pointing down? I would imagine that sudden stopping and shifting would put unneeded stress onto the cylinders and pistons on the FEL.

~Kevin

I agree- unless he has it in float mode.

bx24 · Dec 20, 2010

kday64 said:
BX24,

The hooks look awesome! Why do you transport your BX with the bucket pointing down? I would imagine that sudden stopping and shifting would put unneeded stress onto the cylinders and pistons on the FEL.

~Kevin

Kevin

For what little it helps with aerodynamics and center of gravity, I usually have the FEL down. With the ratchet straps cranked down, the tractor really does not move more than a half inch or so. Most times I just lower it down, turn off the tractor and then move the FEL control lever to release all hydraulic pressure. When I have the teeth on, I do it that way so they don't tear up the boards I just replaced on the trailer! Most times I am only going a few miles. It is actually illegal by DOT regs to not secure the board (2 x 6 in this case) to the trailer because if it got out from underneith the bucket, it could fly off. For the couple of times I have had the trailer and tractor on the highway, I think I had the bucket up a couple of feet up off the bed (but again to not tear up my planks!

One quick note ... since these pictures were taken, I have switched to straps with "snap hooks" so even if the got a little bit loose, they would not "un-hook and fall off"

ultrarunner said:
Off Topic... What do you use the 12v quick connect for shown in the last picture?

I thought there might be questions about that! See this other thread ...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/191200-quick-connect-jumper-cables.html

robs660 · Dec 20, 2010

Last summer I was trailering a Takeuchi TL230 with my F250 on the NJ turnpike. The trailer was a rental with surge brakes and I had a break failure. The trailer began to sway violently and unavoidably spun my truck and the trailer around 540 degrees before stopping in the middle lane. There was someone behind me that saw the start of the swaying and he slowed traffic down I am sure he saved me from being killed.
Anyway the point I am getting to is the skid steer was tied down with 4 2" nylon straps (one on each corner) The skid steer did not move an inch during the whole thing. I was expecting the skid steer to either break the straps and flip or stay on and flip the skid and trailer.

I have always used the straps on everything from quads to heavy equipment and I have always felt very comfortable with them. I will say that I take special attention to keep them in great shape and throw them out if they show wear that I am not comfortable with. So - I am sure I will spend more money over the life of my towing then I would with chain but I am OK with that.

To each his own and we all have valid points on how we tow but for me yellow works great.

bx24 · Dec 21, 2010

robs660 said:
I have always used the straps on everything from quads to heavy equipment and I have always felt very comfortable with them. I will say that I take special attention to keep them in great shape and throw them out if they show wear that I am not comfortable with. So - I am sure I will spend more money over the life of my towing then I would with chain but I am OK with that.

No push back here ... I went with the chain for the rear tie downs because of the speed, cost and durability (the strength was plus ... but not a requirement). I don't think you can ever go wrong using appropriate sized tie downs at 4 different points. For me personally, I get a better "feel" on how hard I am pulling with ratchet straps than I do with chain load binders .... thats why I went with a combination of the two systems (hopefully the best of both worlds)