Oil & Fuel Another dk stuck at full throttle.

[ritcheyvs]

Yes that’s the part number I used to replace the broken ones. Only one was broke but I replaced all three.

Copy all. Many thanks.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Some small things to add..
Keep all the parts from each cylinder together.. don't mix them up..
Do 1 hole at a time..
& the "cut"[helix] on the pumping plunger goes AWAY from the control rack..
Things to have ready> a small pencil type magnet, a strong flashlight, a pick/scribe, a small pair of needle nose pliers & a small dish of veggie oil for reassembly..
"We" use calibration fluid for reassembly, but veggie oil will do in a pinch.. just clean your parts & dip in oil & put it together.
Good luck & if you can, snap us some pics along the way..

 

[ritcheyvs]

Pump Guy: Thanks for the tips. I knew most of it but hadn't given much thought to assembly oil.

Bumpkin: I received the control sleeves (not in Zexel packaging) and each came with a small metal washer and rubber O-ring. It will probably be clear when I open the IP, but can you tell me what the washer and O-ring are for?

Thanks for the help.

About fixing the IP, I haven't gotten past loader removal. I messed up my back last weekend and a pinched nerve in my back is giving me false pain up and down my right arm, which also messes with coordination. I tried to write a check tonight and it was almost illegible.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Sorry to hear about the back injury those are never good. As for the extra parts I truly don’t remember the were those were in the rebuild. I didn’t get anything but the sleeves in my order and reused everything else, but it’s pretty straight forward so you should find were they go.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The oring goes on the top nut> delivery valve holder<
& the washer goes under IT..> delivery valve gasket<
The top nut gets tightened{torqued} to 30-35 ftlbs..

 

[ritcheyvs]

PumpGuy:

Thanks for your expertise and input.

New: Rereading your post, I think it means that the top nut is "the Delivery Valve Holder" and the washer is the "Delivery Valve Gasket" that goes under the delivery valve. The <> symbols confused me. If my new read is correct, I will not need or use those two parts (washer and o-ring) and you can ignore the next paragraph, which I wrote before I broke the <> code. I asked Conestoga what those parts were for and they implied that only a professional should do this job. Initially, I thought they were being condescending but I suspect they would be right if I intended to remove the delivery valve..

Is "top nut" the same as "delivery pipe nut" (where hard line attaches to delivery valve holder) or is it the delivery valve holder? Do you mean the washer goes under the delivery valve or under the o-ring? Maybe I don't need those parts?

I had not planned to remove the delivery valve/delivery-valve-holder from the IP body so maybe these parts are not needed? Based on the photos neches posted, delivery valve removal doesn't appear necessary for this repair and I know some delivery valves are tricky to get right (like most old Mercedes engines). Also, I suspect the delivery valves hold the IP cylinders at the correct angles for balanced injection on all cylinders. If so, I really don't want to disturb those settings.

Sorry for all the questions (answers will probably be obvious once I start the job) but I can't work on the machine while I'm laid up so I'm pestering you.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I think your right, I didn’t remove those when I did it. I just remove the retainer pins in the bottom and removed them that way.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Sorry for the confusion.. I coulda put an = sign.?? BUT YES, you deciphered it correctly.
Top nut is called the delivery vlv holder. {where the hard steel line for the injector screws on to}
the washer goes under the dv hldr. & is called the delivery vlv gasket.
IF you don't need to disturb the top nut, don't.. especially if you don't have a torque wrench.
Just keep the "extra parts" around for future use.. they are prone to leak w/ age.{VERY common}
I've never been out on a service call for a broken "gear/segment"... but I've been on thousands for leaking DV holders.. {oring & gasket}
Can you "rent" a TW from the local parts house?
I'm a 1 & done kinda guy.. if I have it out, I'm gonna work on it ONCE.
Its been my experience that they are a whole lot easier to work on, OFF the machine.. but its your call.

 

[ritcheyvs]

PumpGuy:

Many thanks . I have several torque wrenches so that's no problem. But thanks for the torque spec (in case I ever need it) because that spec isn't in the Kioti service manual (although the EX manual does have good drawings of the fuel system).

Since you are such a font of information, I'd like to ask one final question. For these agricultural-style IPs, is the IP cylinder keyed to the IP body to establish the rotational position or is it adjustable? I suspect it is keyed because I don't see how it would be adjusted. I know the IP cylinder is rotated on some larger Bosch IPs to set up injection timing but that requires a trip to a real Diesel shop with special equipment; we Mercedes owners were always advised never to touch the big nuts on top (next to the delivery valves).

The Ibuprofen seems to be working (slowly) so maybe I can get back to the IP repair next week. Cheers and thanks again.

Scott

 

[thepumpguysc]

On YOUR PUMP.. its keyed so to speak.. there is a lead pin that's inside the housing that holds the pumping plunger's "barrel, in 1 position..
The fuel is adjusted on the outside of the engine w/ a screw adjustment..
If you look at the front of the engine [fan side] right inline w/ the inj. pump & down a smidge, you'll see an adjusting screw.. it probably has a lead seal on it..
THAT SCREW limits the amount of control rack travel.{fuel}
Feel better & let us know how you make out..TPG