Another JD 2155 Hydro Thread

[JoshB]

I replaced the stroke control valve and could easily adjust it to 2250 psi. The noise is still there. I bought a heat gun and will compare temps with the pump and the tranny next time I run the tractor.

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanks for update & it sounds as if you're making progress.
Jim

 

[Peterpiper]

I replaced the stroke control valve and could easily adjust it to 2250 psi. The noise is still there. I bought a heat gun and will compare temps with the pump and the tranny next time I run the tractor.

Hi Josh,
I was wondering if you found out any more about your hydraulic problem?
I have a 2155 and having the same problem
I have a new front pump coming shortly. Does a new pump have that valve you finally found to make your stuff work come in a new pump?
Thanks
Gary

 

[JoshB]

Gary,

I still get the noise but everything works as it should so I just ignore the noise now. My problem was fixed just by replacing the stroke control valve. I don't remember exactly what it cost but it was under $100. I'm sure it will come with the new pump but I'd highly recommend getting your money back if you can, then just order the Valve as a kit. I bought an aftermarket kit, not a JD OEM kit. They cost a lot more.

 

[Peterpiper]

Gary,

I still get the noise but everything works as it should so I just ignore the noise now. My problem was fixed just by replacing the stroke control valve. I don't remember exactly what it cost but it was under $100. I'm sure it will come with the new pump but I'd highly recommend getting your money back if you can, then just order the Valve as a kit. I bought an aftermarket kit, not a JD OEM kit. They cost a lot more.

Josh,
Thanks for your reply and the phone call.
You mentioned that you are now wondering if maybe engine overheating can have something to do with the loss of hydraulics.
Mine will work for about 10 minutes and then very quickly/gradually fail.
Maybe someone could chime in?
Seems where I read somewhere that the stroke control valve had to be driven out. Do you remember?
Also, you mentioned that it had a small rubber like tip. I wonder if there is a "seat" involved and if maybe yours is chattering because the seat is bad??

Anyways, I removed my speedo by pulling it out of the dash. The gasket fell apart. There is also a rubber boot holding it in from under, then you can unclip the electric connectors.
I used a screwdriver, as carefully as I could, unbent the metal ring flange that holds the glass bezel (for lack of better words) onto the speedo. There is a plastic bezel under that that gets cloudy. I just cleaned mine with water and it came much cleaner, but I wonder what something like glass wax would do for it.
I can now at least see that there are guages and an hour meter there to acess if any work at all

I will keep everyone informed if I am sucessful.
Thanks,
Gary

 

[JoshB]

The stroke control valve does not seat on rubber. It's all metal. In my case, the needle itself had a deformity on it. No rubber in that assembly though.

 

[Tx Jim]

Peterpiper
IMHO engine being too hot will not have much affect on hyd's functioning BUT hot hyd's can be caused by a high pressure internal leak. All JD stroke control valves have a metal to metal seat.

 

[Peterpiper]

Thanks for responding Jim!
I took out the stroke valve and could not find anything wrong with it
I put it back in and cranked it up a bit

Biggest thing-I have proven that after 10 minutes of running, the rear pump gives out.
I proved this by disconnecting coupling hose while tractor cold- getting oil under pressure
Checked it again after hydraulics stopped working-no oil
When I tried to check pick up screen, I found either none or a very faulty one, could push a bar all the way through with no resirance
Going to go pick up a new filter now
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Gary

 

[Tx Jim]

Trans pickup screen is open on both ends IE it's is cylindrical shaped.

Which coupling hose did you disconnect to determine that trans pump stopped pumping?

Did you adjust stand-by pressure to 2250 psi after re-installing SC valve?

Have you checked hyd filter relief valve to be sure it's seating?

Does tractor have a FEL? If so what type valve controls it & how are hyd's attached to hyd system?

 

[Peterpiper]

Trans pickup screen is open on both ends IE it's is cylindrical shaped.

Which coupling hose did you disconnect to determine that trans pump stopped pumping?

Did you adjust stand-by pressure to 2250 psi after re-installing SC valve?

Have you checked hyd filter relief valve to be sure it's seating?

Does tractor have a FEL? If so what type valve controls it & how are hyd's attached to hyd system?

Thanks for responding Jim,
Josh speaks highly of you!

So, yes I did finally understand the pickup screen after visiting a JD dealersip. Bought a new one and trans filter.
Upon removing it found it almost full with dark granulary particles, a few larger dark particles and some tan vafer like chips. When cleaning the orrifice, I found a nylon piece that looks like it was once part of something with screw or bolt.

Everything worked good (grading box, no FEL) for 3 hours and then it started again.

So I took it apart again and found only small amount of particles this time.
Put it back togeter, worked about an hour and quit again.

When proving that the rear pump was not working after a period of time (10 min then), I disconnected the line without the check valve in it in the bottom of tranny.. Checked the check valve line first and reallized nothing could come out of tranny from that one.

I dont know where the hydraulic filter relief valve would be?

I did not check the pressure with a guage at the front pump but will soon!

Thanks for your thoughts!

Gary

 

[Tx Jim]

Please tell Josh I that I thank him. Hyd filter relief valve are keys 9-11. With 3 pt raised engine running do you see any moving oil when looking in open hyd filler hole behind seat?

 

[Peterpiper]

Please tell Josh I that I thank him. Hyd filter relief valve are keys 9-11. With 3 pt raised engine running do you see any moving oil when looking in open hyd filler hole behind seat?

Jim,
I think I remember seeing that. Is it a larger nut with a smaller nut/bolt in it? Should I remove it and see whats going on?

I do not see any oil moving when I look in the oil filler hole.

One thing that baffles me, (I just bought the tractor), I think the Hydraulic oil has just been changed. Maybe filter but defenatlly not pick up screen. The dipstick showed the unit to be overfilled.
I have been removing pickup screen and filter by hooking up a shop vacuum, therefore not losing much oil.
I know I have lost a quart or two, but the dipstick shows still overfull!
I am now planning on looking at the dipstick after the tractor sitts for a couple days.
So, I have my doubts about the accuracy of the dipstick. I can not see any oil at all when I look in filler hole.
Seems it is supposeed to hold 49 quarts. I wonder where it is!
Am I supposed to see the oil bath when looking in filler hole? Im thinking about looking for a plug on side of tranny that seems to line up with dipstick guage.

Thanks!

 

[Tx Jim]

Are you checking hyd oil with engine idling?

 

[jd110]

Do you have any pictures of the debris from the screen? Sounds like it could be brake material that has separated from the disk. I would definitely recommend removing the filter relief and checking it to be sure it is not stuck open. You will not see oil level from the fill hole unless it is extremely overfull- probably would take at least 5 gallons overfull to see it there. I also think I would drain the oil and remove the sump screen. The vacuum could be dislodging some of the debris from the screen as you remove it and then as soon as you start it back up, could be sucking it back to the screen.

 

[Peterpiper]

So wow, what a wealth ok knowledge Jim and JD!

I do now check the level with engine idling.

Yes, the vacuum must be pulling the debri away from the screen. The pic of strainer on plastic wrap was last week when I first pulled it out.
The savcond time I pulled it out (using the shop vacuum) there was very little crud. Today (draining all the oil) crud FILLED again. Pic of strainer on grader box.
So, yes the vacuum must be pulling the crud away. Amazing!
I swept a few cloths to clean as much as I could, but suspect it will fill again
So, I suspect it is the brake linings. I have read others have even found rivits on the screen. Some say it is caused by inferior oil?

Does anyone know how entailed it is to change the brakes out? I figure the top has to come off the tranny, but do the axles need to be pulled or the case split?

Thanks so much!
Gary

 

[jd110]

The top of the trans does not have to come off to replace the brakes, although it can be helpful to flush out the housing. Inferior or improper oil can help deteriorate brakes, but the biggest enemy of wet brakes is water. If the oil gets contaminated with water, it loosens the lining from the brake disks. There are no rivets in the service brakes on a 2155, but there are some rivets in the park brake band. The material in the screen appears not to be parking brake. I see you included photos of the filter relief valve. Was there any debris in the slot in the side of it? That is where dirt usually gets stuck causing the plunger inside to stick open.

 

[Peterpiper]

No, there was nothing in or around the filter relief valve.
Well thats interesting about the brakes. You state that the debris in screen does not appear to be from the parking brake. Could it be from the service brakes?
I was going to try to finish this job not using the brakes unless absolutely necessary. Do you think thats a good idea or do you think it is not contributing to the debri in the screen?
Do you think trying to flush tranny with water (to be easy on the environment) would be worthwile?

Thanks!!
Gary

 

[beenthere]

Big "No" to the water... IMO

 

[DLTTrekkers]

When repairing brakes remember to push back the dowlpinadjusters that retract the brakepiston ! To do that fit finaldrive without gasket and thightern. Then remove and fit gasket .

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree that water is very bad for brake linings.