another ROPS light question

[Bob_Skurka]

1) What all is on the same circuit!
2) Take total bulb wattage..convert to AMPS at 12V dc
3) Find the fuse that is in that circuit

Then you have the answer!

I think the biggest limiting factor will be the alternators ability to recharge the battery as the lights drain the battery down during use. I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure the BX series tractors only have a 15-amp alternator so while it is simple to wire the circuits so you don't blow the fuses, you will likely be drawing more amps than your alternator is able to replace.

That is not a huge problem unless you are doing a lot of work in the dark with the lights ON and very little work with the lights OFF during the day, then you will be drawing down your battery on a steady basis and eventually you'll draw it down too much too far. Night use will draw power from the battery faster than the alternator can recharge it, daytime use with the lights off will slowly top off the battery.

It could lead to premature replacement of the battery, but again, if the lights are only used for occasional night time snow removal, and then for periods of perhaps an hour, it really is not a very big concern. Many would blow it out of proportion and suggest an alternator upgrade, but for the occasional user there really is no nead for it. In the past there were some very heated arguements over this topic, and if the tractor would be used for commercial purposes, often at night, then it would make sense to consider a larger alternator or a different tractor.

 

[Harry c]

The fuses are there to protect the wires. Unless something has been improperly wired or fuses replaced with larger amperage, the fuse will go before the wiring is damaged. You could end up blowing a fuse and have no lights at all until you can replace the fuse. If it's working it sounds like it's not overloading... If a blown fuse wouldn't leave me in a critical spot, I'd be tempted to use it as it is. Tape an extra fuse on a wire somewhere and if a fuse ever blows you can unplug one light, replace the fuse and wire another dedicated circuit later.

 

[jasonpotopa]

After doing some more research and knowing what I plan for the next year (home made cab with heat, multiple lights 2 55w front and 2 55w back, and add a power port for accessories) I think I'll add the BX7310A kit to my birthday wish list. In the mean time I'll keep an eye on the battery voltage to ensure i have juice to spare.

Harry, I don't take the tractor off my property much, and have fuses in the garage, but that's a good idea if the neigbors need to be dug out in the next big storm. I usually end up digging folks out once or twice a year. good point on the fuses also. Thanks all.

 

[BXRICK]

If you're going to do all that on your BX, you'll probably need the bigger alternator.

Roughly, a single 55W light uses 4.5 amps (55/12 - we can argue about loss in wiring, actual wattage of lamps, and whether we are using 12 or 14 volts, but let's call it 4.5 to 5 amps).

Once running, your tractor uses very little power.
You do have the headlights, and the rear lights. These use a few amps.

So, two 55W lights is 9-10 amps. Use a little more to power the factory lights, and a little more to re-charge the battery, and you really don't have anything left.

Add a third work light, and you'll be right on, or over the edge.

I have been using two 55W lights (one rear facing, one front facing), a strobe light (0.5 amps), and the factory lights on my BX for several years while clearing snow. I have not upgraded the alternator (or whatever it is). I have not had a problem. But I wouldn't want to go any further without the upgrade.

I ran my own wires from the battery, through switched relays. The relays are switched by the factory switches (headlight for work lights, hazard lights for strobe), so I didn't have to buy switches, or find a place to mount them.
I bolted the lights to a piece of angle, which is then held to the top of the ROPS with two hose clamps.
I used a trailer harness to run power to the lights - the trailer disconnect is up at the lights, so I can remove the whole deal, or replace lights easily, should I so choose. I have not yet so chosen.

 

[rbarker]

My wife also suggested putting my head in a vice to try and make it smaller, but I'm not keen on that suggestion.

Wives can be so helpful, can't they?

Any concerns with how I have it wired now though? Would I be pulling to many amps from the wires?

I'll just add a thought from a different perspective, the factory headlights are useless so why risk taxing the charging system and battery by running them? If you wind up having a problem it's going to be in the middle of the night in a freaking blizzard and the last thing you want to be doing is farting around with dead batteries and blown fuses. A seperate switch means that you are only running what you need.

 

[Sully2]

I think the biggest limiting factor will be the alternators ability to recharge the battery as the lights drain the battery down during use. I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure the BX series tractors only have a 15-amp alternator so while it is simple to wire the circuits so you don't blow the fuses, you will likely be drawing more amps than your alternator is able to replace.

That is not a huge problem unless you are doing a lot of work in the dark with the lights ON and very little work with the lights OFF during the day, then you will be drawing down your battery on a steady basis and eventually you'll draw it down too much too far. Night use will draw power from the battery faster than the alternator can recharge it, daytime use with the lights off will slowly top off the battery.

It could lead to premature replacement of the battery, but again, if the lights are only used for occasional night time snow removal, and then for periods of perhaps an hour, it really is not a very big concern. Many would blow it out of proportion and suggest an alternator upgrade, but for the occasional user there really is no nead for it. In the past there were some very heated arguements over this topic, and if the tractor would be used for commercial purposes, often at night, then it would make sense to consider a larger alternator or a different tractor.

Yepper! I know Bob. That JOKE they call a "Dynmo" is about right to charge flashlight batteries and thats about it. One reason why the upgrade aternator is on my "to do " list. I want to add more FLASHING / STROBE lights for when I travel on the street / road. I want a strobe...mag mount for the top of the ROPS ( and plug it in the back with a coil cord ) and addition flashers tied into my 4-ways flashers mounted high...but inside the upper corners of the ROPS. I dont need some "Doo-Dah" plowing into me from front or behind.

 

[kwolfe]

I have a BX1500 and used two 35W floods to be on the safe side. I don't think you will drain the battery with the 55W. I went with 35W becasue that is what the service guy recomended. I don't run the headlights at all any more. I mounted mine using round grounding magnets from Harbor Freight. The lights plug into a 12V outlet I rigged to the aux power line under the seat. The magnets hold very well, however they give enough that the lights can be knocked off before being broken. So far it has worked well for me.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

That JOKE they call a "Dynmo" is about right to charge flashlight batteries and thats about it. One reason why the upgrade aternator is on my "to do " list. I want to add more FLASHING / STROBE lights for when I travel on the street / road. I want a strobe...mag mount for the top of the ROPS ( and plug it in the back with a coil cord ) and addition flashers tied into my 4-ways flashers ...

I wanted to add a "light bar" to my snowcat with a couple of rotating amber flashing lights. A police officer I know got me a used Federal Signal "Vector" lightbar with all the bells & whistles that is about 4' wide, over 2 feet front to rear and about 10" tall. It had "alley" lights, "take down" lights, a directional bar, and 7 rotators all with police issue red & blue domes. I looked into the power requirements and the lightbar and controller used something over 50 Amps when it was fully lit up!

I ended up trading it for a low draw amber strobe light.

Pictures 1 & 2 show the lightbar. Picture 3 shows my Snow Trac with the amber strobe that is a lot more practical for my use!

 

[Spudgunner]

I also purchased a couple of the Northern Tool mag-mount flood lights and stuck them on the sides of my BX-23's ROPS. They seem to work fine with the standard magneto. According to my BX-2200 Workshop Manual (WSM), there is (and there really is!) both a ground and +12 tap to be found under the seat. The ground wire is black with a male connector and the +12 wire is black with a red stripe. This hot wire runs to the fuse block under the dash and is hot whenever the key is not in the off position. The fuse, IIRC, is a 20 amp critter and is labeled on the fuseblock as "wrklt" or something like that. Rather than take the chance that the lights and wiper motor in my cab are over-taxing the magneto, I decided to add a Honda EU1000 generator to the back of my tractor and use its 12v output to power the lights. Maybe I'll replace the 12v lights with 110v lights in the future...guess we'll see.

 

[IslandTractor]

I decided to add a Honda EU1000 generator to the back of my tractor and use its 12v output to power the lights.

Now all you need is to add a barbeque grill and TV and you can have tractor gate parties at football games.