another wiring question

   / another wiring question #11  
<font color=blue>"My response is for entertainment purposes only!"</font color=blue>

I, for one, was certainly entertained. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

All kidding aside, when I wire anything, I run 12/3. Again, it's not much more money than 12/2 and, if I ever want to add another switch somewhere, the wiring is already there.
 
   / another wiring question #12  
Nice to have that extra wire, but wouldnt pass code down in the big city.,
 
   / another wiring question #13  
No kidding? I can't imagine why an extra red-coated wire in the romex sheathing would be a problem even when it's not needed. Of course, I might be trying to use logic where none is required. I wonder if Inspector507 can shed some light on that one for me.
 
   / another wiring question #14  
Gary,
An extra wire in the box, if the box is large enough, is not a problem. But I would ask the electrician to put a wire nut on it, if I was doing the inspection.
Actually if I ever build a house, the whole darned thing will be wired with 3 wire, just so I will have a spare everywhere.
 
   / another wiring question #15  
<font color=blue>"Actually if I ever build a house, the whole darned thing will be wired with 3 wire, just so I will have a spare everywhere."</font color=blue>

That was EXACTLY my thought. I have no problem putting wire nuts on them. I just like the idea of having them there if I ever need one. If I never do, so what? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Thanks for responding to this. It lets me continue to believe that there is logic and reason involved in these ordinances. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / another wiring question #16  
about a dozen years ago, I added a 24 x 24 addition to my house. I sub'd out all but the electrical work. My dad (used to be an electrician many years ago) and I did the wiring.

I wired it all with 14/3. Every duplex outlet in the room has the top outlet hot all the time and the bottom is turned on/off with the switch. That way the lights can be anywhere in the room and still controlled by the switch. I also put in a quad box on both sides of the family room for the TV/stereo/cable. This eliminates the old extension cord used to gain more outlets. Also wired the outside lighting to two switches.... one in the family room and one in the master bedroom. If there is a commotion outside at night, I don't need to run downsairs to turn on the lights.

For a few dollars more .....

//bruce
 
   / another wiring question #17  
Thanks for the support. I knew I couldn't be the only one who did things like this. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I guess I'm just a 'belt and suspenders' kind of guy. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
 
   / another wiring question #18  
Rather than a new thread I decided to ask my question here. I'm hoping Inspector 507 can help me out here. I gave up on my electrician ever showing up to finish my job so I'm doing it myself. Everything has gone amazing well (I even redid a couple things he'd done I didn't like).

This morning I ran my 4-0 aluminum from the meter base up the riser and out the weatherhead and started the run from the meter base to the breaker box before I ran out of time and had to get to my 'real' job. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I labeled everything clearly for the power company so their life would be simpler. So far, so good.

My question is on grounding everything. I don't have a water meter so I guess I'm limited to the old earth ground but here's where I'm lost. What gauge wire do I use and what am I required to put in the ground, where and how deep? How near or far from whatever should I be with this. Thanks.
 
   / another wiring question #19  
Gary,
Glad to help you.
You need a #4 copper ground wire. Check with your power supplier/inspection agency as to where to connect it. Some suppliers want it in the meter box some don't. We want it in the panel connected to the neutral bar. An 8' copper clad or galvanized ground rod is needed. How far out from the foundation depends on the locale too. Some want it minimum 24" from the foundation, preferring it to be in undisturbed soil. You'll also need to bond all water lines in the house too, with a peice of #4 copper. Be sure to bond around all dielectric fittings, water softners, etc. Any other questions, or if I confused you, let me know.
 
   / another wiring question #20  
I have a question for Inspector 507. I want to remove my fuse panel and replace it with a larger circuit breaker box. I feel qualified except for one question.
When I install the new box, I will have to wirenut extensions onto any wires that are too shot. Can this be done inside the panel box or do I need to install some other workbox(s) for these splices? Thanks, Bill
 

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