Antifreeze- is any type OK?

[AlanB]

THANKS ALAN, that sure is re-assuring, I'd hate to be so diligent as to doing all this preventative maintenance and then find out I screwed myself by using the wrong product.

By the way, what brand/type of test strips are you using and where do you get them from. When I ask my boys at the Napa store for these they look at me like I have two heads?

Frank

You got to find the old experienced guy at the Napa store...

This link should work,

NAPAONLINE®

The top 3 are what they carry.

Now I have to go make sure you get the right ones for the Fleetguard, those are the Wix ones, and I believe them to be right, but I think we are using some Mil-spec'd ones at this point.

Here may be some interesting reading.

Antifreeze Recycling

 

[sunspot]

I did my coolant change this past weekend. I bought my tractor used with no service history so I will do all the PM's as a basis.
The old coolant was green but barely. On draining, there was no rust color at all. I re-filled with a coolant cleaner and I followed the instructions except I rinsed twice after draining the coolant cleaner.
I topped it up with new coolant and went to cut grass for about 45 minutes, making sure that all air pockets were gone. I had to add coolant after the engine cooled down.
I used the NAPA store to buy Valvoline Zerex Pre-charged. NAPAONLINE®

Well, that's out of the way. Next comes the transmission oil change.

Thanks to all on this great forum for putting up with my questions. I've learned a lot by being with TBN.

 

[Rara Avis]

Diesel Engine Coolant
The engine cooling system is filled to provide
year-round protection against corrosion and cylinder
liner pitting, and winter freeze protection to -37ｰC
(-34ｰF). If protection at lower temperatures is required,
consult your John Deere dealer for recommendations.
John Deere COOL-GARD Prediluted Coolant is
preferred for service.
John Deere COOL-GARD Prediluted Coolant is
available in a concentration of either 50% ethylene
glycol or 55% propylene glycol.
Additional recommended coolants
The following engine coolant is also recommended:
ｷ John Deere COOL-GARD Coolant Concentrate in a
40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality
water.
John Deere COOL-GARD coolants do not require use
of supplemental coolant additives, except for periodic
replenishment of additives during the drain interval.
Other fully formulated coolants
Other fully formulated low silicate ethylene or
propylene glycol base coolants for heavy-duty engines
may be used if they meet one of the following
specifications:
ｷ ASTM D6210 prediluted (50%) coolant
ｷ ASTM D6210 coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60%
mixture of concentrate with quality water
Coolants meeting ASTM D6210 do not require use of
supplemental coolant additives, except for periodic
replenishment of additives during the drain interval.
Coolants requiring supplemental coolant additives
Other low silicate ethylene glycol base coolants for
heavy-duty engines may also be used if they meet one
of the following specifications:
ｷ ASTM D4985 ethylene glycol base prediluted (50%)
coolant
ｷ ASTM D4985 ethylene glycol base coolant
concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate
with quality water
Coolants meeting ASTM D4985 require an initial
charge of supplemental coolant additives, formulated
for protection of heavy duty diesel engines against
corrosion and cylinder liner erosion and pitting. They
also require periodic replenishment of additives during
the drain interval.
Other coolants
It is possible that neither John Deere COOL-GARD nor
coolants meeting one of the coolant standards listed
above is available in the geographical area where
service is performed. If these coolants are unavailable,
use a coolant concentrate or prediluted coolant with a
quality additive package that provides cylinder liner
cavitation protection and protects the cooling system
metals (cast iron, aluminum alloys, and copper alloys
such as brass) from corrosion.
The additive package must be part of one of the
following coolant mixtures:
ｷ ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base prediluted
(40% to 60%) coolant
ｷ ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base coolant
concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate
with quality water
Water quality
Water quality is important to the performance of the
cooling system. Distilled, deionized, or demineralized
water is recommended for mixing with ethylene glycol
and propylene glycol base engine coolant concentrate.

IMPORTANT: Do not use cooling system sealing
additives or antifreeze that contains
sealing additives.

IMPORTANT: Do not mix ethylene glycol and
propylene glycol base coolants.

 

[CJ4]

Excellent post and links guys. This post reminded me that all of this talk about antifreeze IS NOT nonsense..... It's the truth, I know, I lost an engine in one of my IH trucks with approx 150,000 miles on it about 2 yrs ago due to cavitation!!!! I couldn't believe the dealer when they gave me this story about "your engine problem is an antifreeze issue"!!!!! Well it was and I pay attention now. This post also reminded me that I don't have the same manager/drivers that I had then and I need to educate them on this and get back to my coolant maintenance that they aren't aware of. Hope I haven't forgotten about this too long again!!!!! ggggrrrrrr!!

As you guys have mentioned, it's complicated and therefore during my research (which was mostly provided by you gentlemen's great links) I took notes and summarized all of this for my future reference and to see it all in one place. If this Word file would help any of you just PM me and I'll email the file to you. Keep in mind it's just my notes and I could have made a mistake or interpreted something wrong but you're welcome to it.

In my research i concluded that there are several coolants that would be a good choice to use. I had actually decided to go with TSC "FleetCharge" @ 10.99/gal but when I got there they only had 1 gal in stock and all the stores in their district only had a few. I needed 20 gallons or more to do all the trucks at least. That was frustrating so I continued my search for other suppliers and decided to go with Shell Rotella ELC. It is compatible with FleetCharge but I wanted all the same in all of the trucks. I found the test strips at the IH dealer and a bottle of DCA to stock in case I needed to bring up the nitrate level when checking the systems later. Basically I found you should look for ELC (extended life coolant) for heavy duty diesel engine use. All that I found had a ASTM rating of ASTM D-6210 and RP-329 on the jug. These should say they are "pre-charged" with the proper initial SCA. Everything I found stressed that you shouldn't assume the proper nitrate levels are good just because it's relatively new or it's a Extended Life Coolant. It is imperative to DO THE STRIP TESTS routinely for proper nitrate levels. It can be too low and too high as well.

 

[CJ4]

P. S. I also learned a very important thing.........don't use a water hose (tap water) to top off a radiator.....IT'S FULL OF CONTAMINANTS and will defeat your purpose. You should use a 50-50 blend of coolant OR use distilled water to top it off. What the heck is this world coming to???? I feel like a dummy anymore questioning some of these things I would've thought were gimmicks. I probably would still have been questioning it if it had not have cost me a $12,000 engine! That'll make a believer outta ya.

 

[Soundguy]

No doubt distilled water is way better for the cooling system, .. deminerilization really helps.

Contrast this to back inthe 30's and 40's when they told you to top off the radiator with 'clear' pond water every day!

soundguy

 

[3RRL]

No doubt distilled water is way better for the cooling system, .. deminerilization really helps.

Contrast this to back inthe 30's and 40's when they told you to top off the radiator with 'clear' pond water every day!

soundguy

Ha, the Chinese tractor books still say to use clean "river water".

 

[scott_vt]

Ha, the Chinese tractor books still say to use clean "river water".

Good Evenin Rob,
No wonder those Chinese tractors have issues !

 

[Soundguy]

I've got some vintage american iron owners manuals that say the clean pond water.. or some such similar.. IE.. rain barrel water..e tc.

the oil and water these old machines ran on would likely cripple a new vehicle..

soundguy

 

[frankc]

On the issue regarding water!

I have been saving water from my de-humidifier in plastic jugs for the last few years and have used this water for all of my car needs.

I use it in the radiators, car/truck batteries, and also the windshield washer bottle. I'm sure its not really what some would call DISTILLED water, but it has worked for me for quite a few years and I don't get any of the mineralization issues that come from tap water. I'm certainly no chemist, but in my mind if I'm paying for the electric to take the dampness out of the air in my basement why not use the result. How many minerals or other contaminates could there be in the air of my basement??????

Frank