Anvil “repair” issue

[FastEddieR]

Jeez, Guys! Give the OP a break! He stated in his first post that he is using a chunk of steel not a real anvil...
He is trying to turn the chunk of steel into a hard surface that he can use LIKE an anvil. The surface hardening process he used didn't turn out so well and he wants advice to either fix it or dump it. That's all.

 

[WranglerX]

Anvils do not need to be hardened faced..... A 500 pound block of steels is no going to need hard-faced, most anvils are cast steel today.... Main thing is to not strike anvil face with a hammer... You strike to work with the hammer, the anvil only provides mass to help inflict the hammer blows/forces into work and provide rebound....

Salvage the "anvil" by removing's the bad welds (or just turn bad weld side down) and forget hardfacing .....

 

[Sarge338]

Thank you to everyone who provided helpful information. I’ll attempt to grind off the hardface. That should only take a dozen or so wheels.

 

[ArlyA]

I never thought anvil's were hardened surfaces either...

 

[oosik]

I have a steel topped welding table. I have a two foot chunk of railroad track welded to the front corner. It serves as my anvil. I agree - real anvils are just too darn expensive.

Sarge - just grind the hard surface flat and let the cracks fend for themselves.

 

[Sarge338]

Jeez, Guys! Give the OP a break! He stated in his first post that he is using a chunk of steel not a real anvil...
He is trying to turn the chunk of steel into a hard surface that he can use LIKE an anvil. The surface hardening process he used didn't turn out so well and he wants advice to either fix it or dump it. That's all.

Thanks for the support, FastEddie!!

 

[Sarge338]

I have a steel topped welding table. I have a two foot chunk of railroad track welded to the front corner. It serves as my anvil. I agree - real anvils are just too darn expensive.

Sarge - just grind the hard surface flat and let the cracks fend for themselves.

Oosik,

You don’t think it’s dangerous? I was reading that the cracked welds would be more likely to chip and fly in all directions. Given that I’ve had physics-defying slag make it passed both a face shield AND safety glasses to make contact with my eyeball, I’d like to avoid a repeat of that with shards of hard face in the lead role. This is my first experience with cracked welds, so it is a genuine question.

 

[Smokeydog]

Lot more to an anvil than a flat surface. A design that has stood the test of time.

All anvils are not the same like all tractors are not the same. Hot working mild steel on a block of steel might work OK. Working high carbon steel needs a better anvil. Many professional blacksmiths prefer a little worn belly on an anvil make for smoother metal working. Some of the best, world class smiths use some rough anvils.

Hard surfacing rarely works on mild steel for this type application. 12018 rod might be a better choice. With any welding the machine and skill varies the results.

Not knowing the base steel, machine, settings, preheat temp, cooling!, can’t give much meaningful advice.

Looked over 10 years for a good used anvil. Missed a few by just minutes. Lots of abused anvils at premium prices. Popular hobby in our area. Finally used a 25% coupon from ZORO and bought a Peddinghaus. Metal about hammers itself.

 

[WranglerX]

Forged in Fire and every one wanting to be a wicked knifesmith has driven anvils to a premium price, a lot more than really worth, every seller has a "premium" anvil no matter "WHAT" shape it is in....

 

[Jstpssng]

Forged in Fire and every one wanting to be a wicked knifesmith has driven anvils to a premium price, a lot more than really worth, every sell has a "premium" anvil no matter "WHAT" shape it is in....

We have one of those premium anvils which my father used for years. It just has a few minor flaws and defects...