Any brush hogging tips?

[80sDweeb]

Because our house burned on Nov. 1, 2014, we're building a new home farther back on our 5 acre property - the old farmhouse was RIGHT by the road. The new house will now have no back yard, until I can clear out the overgrowth back there, so I've been looking at (old to very old) tractors and brush hogs, and thinking about what I'd like, and what I can afford (which isn't much - but will have to do.) I ended up buying a '72 MF 135 diesel, which has 38 pto HP. My question is more about technique than equipment, but any advice would be welcome.

I was watching a couple YouTube videos about brush hogging in overgrown areas (lots of saplings, vines and stickers, etc.) I saw that one guy was "Ow, ow!" -ing a lot, as he want along, getting scratches on his hands from stickers as he leaned away to try to avoid the worst of it (but his hand on the steering wheel was very exposed.) Watching another video, the operator had his leather roper gloves on, and as soon as he came upon sticker branches across his path, he reached back into his toolbox, and came out with a small pair of pruners, which he used to clip the branches and keep going at one point, and at another point he got off and clipped them before passing through (he was maintaining trails, rather than just clearing all the brush away.) I've also heard that with the really old tractors, a rotary cutter can "push" the mower if you don't have an overrun clutch, on a manual pto (aka transmission pto) machine, and that can create some wild rides! (Maybe through a fence, or over an embankment.)

This got me thinking, there must be a LOT of good brush hogging experience and ideas out there (like "wear gloves", have a dust/pollen mask with you, keep a pruner in the toolbox, etc.) I'd much rather be tutored in bush hogging here, than try to figure it out myself, and get hurt or worse in the process. So please, don't be shy - share what you know. I'm old and I learn slow, but "somebody" will have to clear this land once my new house gets built where the old barn was (and "somebody" is probably not my wife...)

Scott in Brighton NY

 

[PHPaul]

When I was running my open station JD750 and opening up a new field, I wore a logging helmet. Ear protection and eye protection built in.

An overrun clutch is ABSOLUTELY necessary if the tractor doesn't have live PTO or have one built in (mine did) . Thinking particularly of Ford N-series tractors. A poor choice all around for mowing in heavy cover IMO, 1st gear at rated PTO RPM is much too fast.

Some sort of screen or shield between you and the 'hog is a good idea as they will occasionally toss something forward instead of to the side or rear. This is particularly true if backing while mowing. Simple solution: DON'T DO THAT! If you choose a tractor new enough to have a ROPS (which you should) you can fasten something to it to protect yourself from debris.

Walk the area first. You don't want to find holes, stumps or rocks the hard way.

Keep spectators away. A rotary mower running at full speed will throw a softball-sized rock 100 feet or more at some pretty impressive velocities.

 

[LD1]

First and foremost, set the cutter up right. Do it on a level slab of concrete. If your toplink has more than one place to hook on the tractor, use the bottom. This will cause the tailwheel to lift higher when raises to clear ditches or backing into thick brush. Set the heigh of the front of the blades at your desired height. The set the back 1-2" higher with the tailwheel.

Run the blades with a dull 1/8" or so blunt edge. This splinters up sapplings instead of making spears that will puncture tires. If you are only cutting grass, its okay to sharpen like a mower blade though.

Keep the radiator clean.

Your tractor likely has a 2-stage clutch. In which case the wild rides ain't gonna happen.

When briars and brush get thick and start encroaching on your hands, torn around and raise the cutter. Back over the brush while lowering the cutter.

Go slow tilnyou learn the property, where any obsticals are, bumps, holes, etc. You don't what to be thrown off a machine of that vintage. It is going to keep on cutting.

 

[MikeInEburg]

Consider simply contracting out that initial cut, allowing you more flexibility on what to buy for maintenance.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I know that it is hot but I wear long sleeved lightweight cotton shirts, gloves, and long pants. The heat is miserable but the briars are worse.

 

[TripleR]

Good advice, if you can't mount an expanded metal or similar guard to protect you, get some chain guards, I've been hit in the back and head by flying debris with open cutters, but never one with chain guards.

We have also done controlled burns to remove brush and briars as well as renting a cabbed, tracked skid steer. A quick search will show how to safely do a controlled burn.

Try to fabricate or have someone make a radiator guard.

If you have a ROPS, you can run cable or rod from the front to the top to deflect brush, I have this on one of my cab tractors.

 

[Code54]

I been clearing a lot of trails and reclaiming some land recently and not had many problems getting tore up and no eqpt issues. If there is a lot of brush handing down I sometimes push it over and back with the front end loader if it high enough to be a problem. Other times I just back the cutter over the item so it gets pushed down and chopped up before I get there. We are clearing a lot of briers, small trees (1 inch to 2) and when there are a row of 10-20 small sapling I back over them also so I don't have all the stuff smashing into the underside of the tractor. I normally take a chain saw on the tractor in case I have a larger tree down or need to take out a 4-5" tree to continue the trail.

 

[txdon]

Wolfsnout® OFF ROAD #1 MOTOCROSS/ATV/UTV DUST MASK/FILTER/OFFROAD

Comfortable if a lot of dust.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I mow for a living and run into a lot of different stuff. My first piece of advice would be to go slow the first time and if you question if you should mow a spot or not, skip it. Turning over the tractor is my biggest fear.Be super careful around streams. The banks can collapse. Mow what you can the first time and allow some time to learn before working on the tough stuff. Eye protection and gloves are a good idea. Long sleeves can be a good idea if you have briars or thorns, but I rarely find it necessary. I mow with a compact tractor so the cutter is close to the tractor ,so I never have problems with debris. A utility tractor usually moves the cutter back a bit so you may have a problem. Pay attention and don't push your luck and you will be fine. It is a lot like using a push mower, just on a lot bigger scale.

 

[big bubba]

sorry to hear on loss of your house. your MF135 is a great tractor, i had the earlier generation 35 TO for many years. in addition to the above advice, periodically check radiator for debris buildup & overheating. think your model is better protected on that than mine was. also, assume your B/H has a "stump jumper" installed underneath on the output shaft, almost a necessity. if you do initial hogging yourself, cut high on 1st pass, go in low range & be patient. & when servicing blades, etc, block up the hog before crawling underneath, rather than just relying on hydraulics. personally, i prefer to remove blades for sharpening (impact wrench almost a must) rather than wrestling around with a grinder a few inches from your face underneath. best of luck on your house plans, maybe post some pics on it's progress! btw if you chain saw some larger saplings, make it a ground level cut! otherwise those stubs will surely spike into your tires, been there before..

 

[Code54]

Be super careful around streams. The banks can collapse.

EXCELLENT point!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Also be on the lookout for old wells or cisterns. I was mowing an area of my property that I've never mowed and it's been overgrown for the 2 years I've owned it. I was being especially careful and watchful since it had not been mowed before. I was going along and saw some bricks on the ground so I stopped and got off the tractor to move them. Lo and behold, it was an old open brick-lined water well that's probably 40 feet deep. Glad I wasn't being cocky that day. It could have been bad.

It pays to go slow, pay attention and don't take any chances.

 

[Code54]

If you have a loader it is also good to keep it very low to the ground. Have found some hidden rocks and logs that way.

 

[newbury]

I would suggest walk the area the first time. There is nothing like running over some discarded fencing and getting it wrapped around the stump jumper. I learned that on You tube.

Also if you can possibly build a hoist you can hoist an end or side up to work on it. Hoists are handy.

 

[newbury]

I would suggest walk the area the first time.
/edit - missed that this was already written.

There is nothing like running over some discarded fencing and getting it wrapped around the stump jumper. I learned that on You tube.

Also if you can possibly build a hoist you can hoist an end or side up to work on it. Hoists are handy.

/edit - Also size your PTO to your tractor. My aged rotary mower bought from an aged relative came with an aged PTO shaft.
I suspect it was a 4, I broke the cross link, I suspect I may need a 5 or 6 for my 42 PTO HP tractor.

 

[bilrus61]

Drive over it with the tractor first without the mower running. If you set the mower low and do a rehearsal its a much better way to find obstacles than bouncing over it with a roaring mower going. If you get in hornets just ride away fast as they will quit after about 30 yards. Don't turn the tractor off and try to leap off and run for it.

Never get under the mower being held up by the 3 point hitch. Always block it up or better yet take it off and flip it over if you need to unwind some fencing. Grass is the toughest thing to mow power wise. Mowing it a little higher takes lots less gas and is easier on your equipment.

If your only cutting weeds and grass a sharper blade really helps speed things along. Find out what kind of drive line protection is on your mower and if it is a slip clutch loosen it and tap it to make sure its not frozen and will slip when you need it. Usually I just do that once a year. Mow when your well rested and not upset or angry. keep your mind on your business, no cell phone talking on a running tractor.

Use your ears and your nose to keep a check on things. If you smell anything that smells like burning or hot oil cooking turn everything off and go over your machine and identify the cause of the smell. Could be a gearbox or a bearing or even something wedged against the muffler.

Mowing after a light rain will reduce the dust and is the very best time to mow I think.

 

[smstonypoint]

Throttle down before either engaging or disengaging the PTO.

Steve

 

[Dewbie]

Running an open cab tractor I like to cut after a light rain or early morning when theres a lot of dew. If you have bad allergies it'll help you a lot

 

[big bubba]

Running an open cab tractor I like to cut after a light rain or early morning when theres a lot of dew. If you have bad allergies it'll help you a lot

from an allergies standpoint, yes....but not for the quality of cut or your equip, always a price