Any Deep ripper ideas for 3ph

stnickstoys · Apr 10, 2004

Hi Guys,
I do a lot of neighborhood tilling around here. Was watching neighbor farmer one day with his deep ripper in the field. It's for ripping up "plow pan" or "hard pan". Thats the layer that is plowed down to every year but not broken up or disturbed. The deep ripper is a very narrow shank that goes down below that "pan" and breaks it up for better soil absorption. I checked the garden and sure enough I'm getting that too from only tilling 4-6 inches each year. Want to build a single tooth ripper for my 3pt (guessing that's all I'd be able to pull at 16-20 inches deep) and was wondering if anyone had any pics of one they have.
Thanks
Nick

DocHeb · Apr 10, 2004

I bought my King Kutter Subsoiler last week. It was designed to do just what you want, and it cost $148 dollars. I'm sure materials are less, but I'm welding challenged. The KK model goes down ~14-16 inches, but could be extended about 4-5 more inches and still fit on my TC40D 3-point. The Monroe TufLine Subsoilers are "prettier", but they cost ~$550 for a single shank, and even I couldn't rationalize that. I pulled the KK through my clay last week and seemed to do a good job. If you were doing a lot of ripping work through sod, you might consider putting a couple coulter wheels in front of the shank to decrease clumping.

RonR · Apr 10, 2004

Lot of posts here on middle busters and rippers. You can buy one from Tractor Supply, Atwoods, and other farm supply stores. Not sure what size tractors you have, but probably could only put a one shank ripper.

One thing I'm planning is to take the rippers off my box blade and make a 3PT implement that allows me to rip about 12 inches with them.

Hope this helps.
Ron

TomK · Apr 10, 2004

I built my ripper to attach to a 3pt receiver hitch implement I built. I used an old trailer ball receiver and welded a shank on it.

TomK · Apr 10, 2004

This one is after I beefed up the attachment to handle the load.

JimR · Apr 10, 2004

Nice setup Tom. Did you make this yourself? I need to make something like this to rip small roots from a stand of sumac trees in my feild so that I can mow it again.

andyfletcher · Apr 10, 2004

She's doing a good job Tom!. Wonder what my 37HP IH434 can handle. ?

Problem is upstate we have boulder soil, so I'd feel better with a breakaway system, or some kind of bumper system that's easy on the clutch.

I think they use the heavy guys, about 50hp to go down and lay pipe or seepage channels but I'm just guessing.

Taylortractornut · Apr 10, 2004

Andy I think you should make one from a parabolic arched ripper like comes on a Vee ripper. I think a 434 could pull it. The arch in it can help pull it under. I saw a 4 shank that took 70 hp to pull it down. for one tooth it should take about 17.5 hp to pull it down. Ive taken the old rippers and made rippers to go on backhoes and ive also made trenchers out of them to. The sub soilers do extremely well on older tractors like that.

ns_in_tex · Apr 10, 2004

I made one out of 2x1/4 square tube and 4"x5/8" metal I had on hand. Has 3/4" pivot bolt and 1/2" shear bolt.

ns_in_tex · Apr 10, 2004

My point design would not pull it all the way down in some soils, so I added weight (out of my junk pile).

The weight made it go down all the way. 1/2" soft shear bolts started shearing, went to #5, then #8. Everything was going good till I hit something & the 2x1/4" tubing, stretched, then folded up as if the top were a hinge as the plow came out of the ground, kicking the contrete up.

So I built another one, welding a 1-1/2" solid round rod inside the 2x1/4" square tubing.

No problems since.

SPIKER · Apr 10, 2004

Nice lookinf rippers guys:

I'm thinking of making one for my FEL and for 3 PT. one with a LONG reach. which will have 3 closely spaced tines to RIP out wild roase bushes form a distance. the 3 pt would be 2 that goes to about 14" or so using standard box blade rippers. I THINK I can pull 2 with my 28 hP 4000 lb tractor while in 4x4. if not I'll have to only put 1 in the adjustable holder design.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

TomK · Apr 11, 2004

Yes, I made it myself using a trailer hitch from a 2002 GMC Sierra. I was able to easily pull it with my Kioti 3054XS through the dirt and even pulled up some rocks. Unfortunately, I bent the drop down trailer hitch that I welded the shank to at the 90 degree angle when I tried to rip some roots of an old scrub oak bush. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I need to figure out a way to bend it back and than weld some support in the web.

reedfish1954 · Apr 11, 2004

The 3 TSC's around here have them on sale for 105.00 but i took measurement on the KK and think I can weld one up for leas than 50 bucks with the majority of the cost going to the 39 inch long 1 inch thick 3 inches wide main shaft. Not a real big deal and a 4 hour job.

jmc · Apr 11, 2004

Neal,

It's hard to tell from your picture but I was wondering if your device would penetrate full depth without extra weight if you changed the point geometry.

While that welded on chisel looks like it would penetrate in the photo's position, as the 3PH rotates down to the full depth position the chisel orientation would become more horizontal and lose its burrowing ability.

John

Glenn9643 · Apr 11, 2004

Nick,
What you're asking about is a subsoiler, and to pull 18"-20" deep in dry hardpan will require about 40HP per shank. It pulls easily when the ground is moist, but doesn't serve its purpose unless the pan is dry so that it will fracture so moisture can penetrate into the cracks. If there's some moisture in the top 8-10" and the bottom 8-10" is dry it'll probably be easier to pull and won't roll out large clods for you to break up.
I borrowed a single shank home-made unit from a friend last fall to use here, but after tearing the top linkage off of it I repaired it and carried it back... so I can't post a picture.
The shank was cut from 1" steel plate tapering from about 8" at the top to the point at the bottom.
I was pulling 18" deep and it was all my 1455v wanted.