Any Deep ripper ideas for 3ph

[stnickstoys]

Hi Guys,
I do a lot of neighborhood tilling around here. Was watching neighbor farmer one day with his deep ripper in the field. It's for ripping up "plow pan" or "hard pan". Thats the layer that is plowed down to every year but not broken up or disturbed. The deep ripper is a very narrow shank that goes down below that "pan" and breaks it up for better soil absorption. I checked the garden and sure enough I'm getting that too from only tilling 4-6 inches each year. Want to build a single tooth ripper for my 3pt (guessing that's all I'd be able to pull at 16-20 inches deep) and was wondering if anyone had any pics of one they have.
Thanks
Nick

 

[DocHeb]

I bought my King Kutter Subsoiler last week. It was designed to do just what you want, and it cost $148 dollars. I'm sure materials are less, but I'm welding challenged. The KK model goes down ~14-16 inches, but could be extended about 4-5 more inches and still fit on my TC40D 3-point. The Monroe TufLine Subsoilers are "prettier", but they cost ~$550 for a single shank, and even I couldn't rationalize that. I pulled the KK through my clay last week and seemed to do a good job. If you were doing a lot of ripping work through sod, you might consider putting a couple coulter wheels in front of the shank to decrease clumping.

 

[RonR]

Lot of posts here on middle busters and rippers. You can buy one from Tractor Supply, Atwoods, and other farm supply stores. Not sure what size tractors you have, but probably could only put a one shank ripper.

One thing I'm planning is to take the rippers off my box blade and make a 3PT implement that allows me to rip about 12 inches with them.

Hope this helps.
Ron

 

[TomK]

I built my ripper to attach to a 3pt receiver hitch implement I built. I used an old trailer ball receiver and welded a shank on it.

 

[TomK]

This one is after I beefed up the attachment to handle the load.

 

[JimR]

Nice setup Tom. Did you make this yourself? I need to make something like this to rip small roots from a stand of sumac trees in my feild so that I can mow it again.

 

[andyfletcher]

She's doing a good job Tom!. Wonder what my 37HP IH434 can handle. ?

Problem is upstate we have boulder soil, so I'd feel better with a breakaway system, or some kind of bumper system that's easy on the clutch.

I think they use the heavy guys, about 50hp to go down and lay pipe or seepage channels but I'm just guessing.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Andy I think you should make one from a parabolic arched ripper like comes on a Vee ripper. I think a 434 could pull it. The arch in it can help pull it under. I saw a 4 shank that took 70 hp to pull it down. for one tooth it should take about 17.5 hp to pull it down. Ive taken the old rippers and made rippers to go on backhoes and ive also made trenchers out of them to. The sub soilers do extremely well on older tractors like that.

 

[ns_in_tex]

I made one out of 2x1/4 square tube and 4"x5/8" metal I had on hand. Has 3/4" pivot bolt and 1/2" shear bolt.

 

[ns_in_tex]

My point design would not pull it all the way down in some soils, so I added weight (out of my junk pile).

The weight made it go down all the way. 1/2" soft shear bolts started shearing, went to #5, then #8. Everything was going good till I hit something & the 2x1/4" tubing, stretched, then folded up as if the top were a hinge as the plow came out of the ground, kicking the contrete up.

So I built another one, welding a 1-1/2" solid round rod inside the 2x1/4" square tubing.

No problems since.