Any reason not to turn implement 3 point hitch pins inward? PIC

[sixdogs]

Maybe it's just me but I've seen a fair amount of cat I/II implements that were set up so the spacing for cat II was "close enough" on the outside while cat I was "close enough" on the inside. Both worked without much strain that I could see and was within workable range.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I've run them both ways, it depends on what tractor that tool is going on... It doesn't hurt a thing, they work fine either way...

Some tools are a lot easier to hook up, with them turned inward...

SR

 

[KennyV]

Maybe it's just me but I've seen a fair amount of cat I/II implements that were set up so the spacing for cat II was "close enough" on the outside while cat I was "close enough" on the inside. Both worked without much strain that I could see and was within workable range.

You are Right...
actually Ted at Everything Attachments is shipping a lot of his stuff with cat 1 pins turned to the inside. KennyV

 

[redman135]

back blade and transport tray are both welded pins. Cat 1 face in and Cat 2 face out like in 6dogs post. The tractor they go on is an MF135 with non adjustable "bar" type stabilisers.
So turn the pins to suit your tractor.

 

[sixdogs]

...

I wonder if anyone can help with three semi-related questions: 1) How much "play" should there be in 3pt arms while an implement is attached? See below how there is space for movement of the arm? Is this normal? Should I tighten the arms on the implement?

View attachment 466240

2) The top link has quite a bit of room to move also. Are there bushings or something like that I should use to prevent that movement? Does it matter? Here's a picture:

View attachment 466241

3) Finally, what is the best order in attaching an implement? Top first, or side arms?

Thanks for your help. I should have been more attentive when I worked with my dad on the farm as a kid!

Do not overtighten the side arms. Everyone wants to but there can be severe stress on the arms when you lift. Most stuff needs an inch or two, sometimes a little more of side movement and most implement owner's manuals will state that and add an exclamation point for effect. Arms do mot need to be locked down tight and, in fact is counterproductive. Just listen to stuff creak when overtightened things are lifted up. Do not overtighten but leave some side slack and don't worry about the top link. Or at least I never have.

 

[sixdogs]

Forgot about this until I got ready to plant sweet corn. The frame is an old Ford cultivator toolbar that I turned the pins in on for clearance with the planter. That way I plant one direction and then turn around and head back in my tracks for a 30" row center. I think--but not certain--that it came from the factory with the same toolbar for cat I and II. Cat I had the pins turned in and Cat II turned out.

Anyway, I brought this in the barn and checked for lateral slop from the arms being closer together. There was some, but not as much as I expected. Just an FYI.


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[ch1ch2]

I have a 6 ft shredder, I put one pin in and one pin out, so I could attach it to both my cat 1 tractor and my cat 2 tractor.

 

[Deere Dude]

I have a garden tractor with 3 pt and a bigger tractor with 3 pt. The big tractor uses the rear blade with pins out, but the garden tractor with cat 1 hitch needs them inwards to attach.

It will work both ways, whatever makes it fit your needs.

 

[FTG-05]

Get rid of the pins, convert to clevis. I frigging hate those hitch pins things.

 

[sixdogs]

Get rid of the pins, convert to clevis. I frigging hate those hitch pins things.

Got any pictures of your setup? Sounds interesting.