Any Subaru owners?

[EE_Bota]

Yeah, I've been enjoying this car. you can lug it around like a little old lady or drive it hard like a rally car. Can't wait til it snows!

I did the timing belt today, well I should say I started it cause I didn't have all the parts to finish it. I didn't start til late in the day, at first I was just gonna look at it, so I took the small cover off. didn't look to bad but definitely not new so I know it's 10+ years old.

Then I just said the heck with it I'm gonna do this, watched a bunch of tutorials on YouTube so I knew what to look for. It was really pretty simple. 3 small size wrenches and sockets and a breaker bar and larger socket for the main crank pulley.

The tensioner did not look to healthy so I got a new one and just figured might as well get all three idlers. At 76,000 I'm not gonna do the seals and water pump. $350 in parts (genuine Subaru) so not to bad. still have to pick up one idler in the morning. I think I got all the marks right, it's like painting by numbers
Just hope it all comes out right.

The ten year old belt looked pretty good with no cracking at all, so maybe it could of went the 30,000 more miles to get to 105K. but it was bothering me thinking about it being past due to change due to it's age.

JB

Every timing belt I ever changed looked not new, but pretty good, so I have decided not to let that concern me.

Once, I changed a belt on a 1992 subaru, and its tensioner had a fluid in it, and a spring. As soon as I started it, it jumped time. I put it back in time, and before I started it again, I turned the engine with a wrench in the proper direction to make sure that the slack would be in the tensioner area instead of distributed around to various places.

Then I went in the house to get a beverage, to allow time for the spring to push, and the fluid to redistrubute properly. They I started it, and drove away, no more issue.

So, from then on, if I am using a spring loaded tensioner, whether it is fluid filled or not, I ALWAYS rotate the engine in the proper direction by wrench to make the slack all arrive at the tensioner, then I wait a few minutes before starting it.

 

[JB4310]

Every timing belt I ever changed looked not new, but pretty good, so I have decided not to let that concern me.

Once, I changed a belt on a 1992 subaru, and its tensioner had a fluid in it, and a spring. As soon as I started it, it jumped time. I put it back in time, and before I started it again, I turned the engine with a wrench in the proper direction to make sure that the slack would be in the tensioner area instead of distributed around to various places.

Then I went in the house to get a beverage, to allow time for the spring to push, and the fluid to redistrubute properly. They I started it, and drove away, no more issue.

So, from then on, if I am using a spring loaded tensioner, whether it is fluid filled or not, I ALWAYS rotate the engine in the proper direction by wrench to make the slack all arrive at the tensioner, then I wait a few minutes before starting it.

Thanks, I'm gonna do just that. since I got a new tensioner it already had the grenade pin in it so I didn't have to deal with compressing the old one.
The tensioner did have oil on the top and wear on the top of the plunger.
The idlers could have gone back in, but since the dealer gave me garage/ wholesale prices It was worth it to replace all of them.

Was actually cheaper with the price the dealer gave me than the NAPA prices, I think they took pity on me doing it myself, cause the first prices they gave me were way higher. Plus I called them about 6 times going back and forth about should I change this or that. They even had a tech look at my old parts, and also let me talk to one of the techs on the phone to resolve an issue I was worried about.

The only issue even just a decent back yard DIYer would have is that 22mm crank pulley bolt, there is a special tool to hold the pulley to break it free and to torque it. I did the starter trick to break it free, that is a little hair raising for the inexperienced. But am thinking now with a standard, couldn't I just leave it in gear and torque against the drive train???

Well I say it's so easy, but we'll see in an hour when I put it back together

JB.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The ten year old belt looked pretty good with no cracking at all, so maybe it could of went the 30,000 more miles to get to 105K. but it was bothering me thinking about it being past due to change due to it's age.
JB

Yeah. Thats what my 10 yr belt looked like at 230Kmi. Service on those seem highly related to time and secondarily to type and amount of use. Used regularly over a 10 yr period those belts will wear out the water pump and you can just replace everything together. Used irregularly, esp in latter of 10 yrs, and youre liable to get cracking at the roots of the teeth regardless of low mileage. Thts probably why the conservative change interval - to cover the very worse cases.
larry

 

[JB4310]

Well it's all back together and working great. I was a little concerned when I hand rotated the crank to where the marks on the belt lined up with the timing marks on the engine again, but the marks on the crank and cams were way off. But when I brought the crank mark straight up, the cam marks were lined up correctly again.

I guess eventually the belt marks and the pulley marks would all come together again after X number of revolutions, but are mostly there for initial setup.

Engine definitely running smoother, not just a placebo effect. especially noticeable at higher rpms, over 4000. before it seemed like the engine was working hard, making more noise when shifting at 4000+ rpms, now it sounds like it's much happier.

This engine red lines at 6000+ rpms. I can't imagine wringing it out to red line, 4500 is very aggressive driving.

Oh yeah my first tankful of fuel hand calculated to just under 25 MPG, with the new belt I suspect it may be a tad better. So that's at least twice the mpg's I'm getting with my other 3 vehicles.

JB.

 

[techwrtr2]

Discovered this week I need to get an axleshaft and front brake calliper. Ah well.

 

[JB4310]

Discovered this week I need to get an axleshaft and front brake calliper. Ah well.

I heard the axles are pretty cheap, I have no idea how much labor is involved to change one. This car has 2 new ones in the front already.

I'm sure there are all kinds of video tutorials on replacing axles on line.


JB.

 

[techwrtr2]

I have the FSM on disc. I suspect the hardest part to doing the axle shaft is separating the ball joint up front.

I really cannot complain, I have not babied the car and it has served me well. I should do some protective measures under it. I can see where rust is going to be a costly problem.

 

[JB4310]

Update:

Liked the Subi so much I got another, 2001 forester, this one has an automatic, for my son. $3,500. one owner with 120,000 miles on it.

Going out right now to do the timing belt. The guy was asking much more for the car, but was getting scared by other potential buyer's mechanics about what the timing belt would cost. Since I'm a pro now I knew I could do it cheap and save some money.
The car is fairly clean in and out.

I'll get some pics later.

JB

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

I know my mom loves her '10 Forester, I was surprised how much room there is.

 

[techwrtr2]

Update:

Liked the Subi so much I got another, 2001 forester, this one has an automatic, for my son. $3,500. one owner with 120,000 miles on it.

Going out right now to do the timing belt. The guy was asking much more for the car, but was getting scared by other potential buyer's mechanics about what the timing belt would cost. Since I'm a pro now I knew I could do it cheap and save some money.
The car is fairly clean in and out.

I'll get some pics later.

JB

Good deal.

Getting that ball joint separated was in fact the hard part. Cruise control switches are getting flaky. Must be 220k of use wearing them out. I use cruise constantly. All the way to work and back and much of the last 220k.