Any thoughts on this idea

[woodlandfarms]

Like us all, I am frustrated with the lock unlock position on the tractor. The fact it is used as a 3rd port to operate the grapple or bucket is frustrating.

I tried a couple of builds here to move the control and failed miserably, generally due to my inability to work well with metal.

So, what are the thoughts, if any, on adding another spool to the tractor. How easy would it be to plumb it in? This would be placed on the left side of the wheel, although position might be challenging as the brake mechanism is just underneath (might have to just bolt it on top).

Anyway, just thinking outloud.

 

[MossRoad]

Like us all, I am frustrated with the lock unlock position on the tractor. The fact it is used as a 3rd port to operate the grapple or bucket is frustrating.

I tried a couple of builds here to move the control and failed miserably, generally due to my inability to work well with metal.

So, what are the thoughts, if any, on adding another spool to the tractor. How easy would it be to plumb it in? This would be placed on the left side of the wheel, although position might be challenging as the brake mechanism is just underneath (might have to just bolt it on top).

Anyway, just thinking outloud.

I would seriously consider adding an electric diverter solenoid with the switch control on the existing joystick. Push the button and you have quick attach/grapple action with one movement of the joystick. Push it again and you have your normal function back.

 

[J_J]

Carl, You could plumb another joystick valve on the other side of the steering wheel. I purchased a joystick stick from hydraulics surplus with power beyond. You need something like this if you will be placing another valve downstream, or as David said plumb in a diverter valve.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008120315504341&item=9-4782&catname=hydraulic

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008120315504341&item=9-4128&catname=hydraulic

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008120315504341&item=9-2277&catname=hydraulic

 

[woodlandfarms]

The diverter does not interest me too much as I like to move the bucket while clamping. Not to completely say no, just kinda no. and that sort of rig is pretty expensive.

I liked the second choice, but I am confused about the product. It is like the lift dump circuit on the PT? Meaning it does 4 things? Or....

I was just thinking of one that did two things (Open and close the jaws or scoop).

I don't get how the third choice works, but I am stupid that way

Secondly, how would I plumb this in? Take the tank return line from the other or T the input line from the other circuit?

Finally, I wonder if there are some detail photos of the 2nd spool. Wondering how I would mount it and such...

Also, I assume it would survive the GPM as it is not the PTO circuit I am involving.

 

[KentT]

Carl,

Don't forget that you can use cable-controlled valves too. Prince, among others, makes them (surplus center had them a while ago -- didn't check)...

Then you put the valve where it is most appropriate based on space and hydraulic plumbing already in place, and run the cable to where you want the control to be.

The fender-mounted controls found on some SCUTs are usually cable-controlled... they're less expensive than using electrical controlled valves, and likely easier to finetune the adjustments...

There's several ways you could skin this cat...

 

[MossRoad]

Your joystick valve has three spools right now.

One is for raise/lower
Two is for curl/dump
Three is down by your right knee for the quick attach/any accessory like the grapple jaws.

Do you want to add a fourth spool to control the accessories instead of connecting them to the quick attach spool or do you just want to move the function of the knee lever over to the left side so it is easier to use?

 

[J_J]

The diverter does not interest me too much as I like to move the bucket while clamping. Not to completely say no, just kinda no. and that sort of rig is pretty expensive.

I liked the second choice, but I am confused about the product. It is like the lift dump circuit on the PT? Meaning it does 4 things? Or....

I was just thinking of one that did two things (Open and close the jaws or scoop).

I don't get how the third choice works, but I am stupid that way

Secondly, how would I plumb this in? Take the tank return line from the other or T the input line from the other circuit?

Finally, I wonder if there are some detail photos of the 2nd spool. Wondering how I would mount it and such...

Also, I assume it would survive the GPM as it is not the PTO circuit I am involving.

Carl,

The second valve is a two way valve. Once hooked up. a flip of the lever in one direction will shift the input to one of two cylinders. Pull the lever to the back position, the QD cylinder would be activated and used normally. In the forward position, the lever shifts fluid to the grapple cylinder, and the single lever function will activate the grapple. In essence, you have one more cylinder that you can operate with the single lever.

You could use an electric valve just for the grapple by using the PTO hydraulic fluid. Real simple. the valve would be mounted on the lift arms. Lines from the valve plug in to the PTO QD's. Once hooked up, to operate the grapple, turn the PTO switch on, this will send hyd fluid to the electric valve. Now flip a spring centered toggle switch forward, and the valve will close the grapple. Flip the other way, and you reverse what you were doing. You have to supply 12v to the valve via the toggle switch.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Your joystick valve has three spools right now.

One is for raise/lower
Two is for curl/dump
Three is down by your right knee for the quick attach/any accessory like the grapple jaws.

Do you want to add a fourth spool to control the accessories instead of connecting them to the quick attach spool or do you just want to move the function of the knee lever over to the left side so it is easier to use?

Correct, and I have used a few methods here with little luck as I have no skill with delicate metal. Nor the gear to properly form it.

 

[KentT]

Correct, and I have used a few methods here with little luck as I have no skill with delicate metal. Nor the gear to properly form it.

Carl,

I dunno if you've seen the Aux PTO mod I did on my 425, but the "most delicate" thing I had to do was bend the new control rod to fit, using my vice and a propane torch. Other than that, it was an electric drill and hand tools...

Mods & Custom Builts

 

[woodlandfarms]

I remember seeing this. I was worried on my PT that the steel was too thick to drill through, and I have no idea how you hooked this up to the hydraulic control. You have pix of that?

Maybe, just maybe. What did you make the stick out of?