Any thoughts on this idea

   / Any thoughts on this idea #11  
I remember seeing this. I was worried on my PT that the steel was too thick to drill through, and I have no idea how you hooked this up to the hydraulic control. You have pix of that?

Maybe, just maybe. What did you make the stick out of?

Sorry -- no pix. My old camera was dead at the time and I hadn't replaced it, as I recall..

I used a common eyebolt-style turnbuckle to connect from the rod to the valve, and the original pin and locking clip from the existing valve -- the only part I removed was the handle itself. The turnbuckle made the length of this connection readily adjustable.

I made the cross-rod/stick out of a rod I'd scavenged from the scrap heap that is my "parts bin"... I think a piece of 3/8" cold-rolled rod from the hardware store would've worked just fine. Mine has some "spring action" in it, but that doesn't prevent it from fully opening or closing the valve, and if anything may actually work better. I know that I get gradual movements on everything I put on the Aux PTO circuit, with none of the jerkiness (at full throttle, especially) that can often encounter on the lift/tilt circuit...

The biggest hassles were:

1. Trying to locate the correct position to drill the hole in the "bulkhead"

2. Actually drilling that hole in what's likely 3/8" or thicker plate.

3. Generally working in that cramped space up under there is a pain -- I had to loosen the bolts holding the entire bank of valves to the bulkhead in order to get room enough to remove the old handle and connect the new one. But, I didn't want to break open any of the hydraulic circuits if I didn't have to, and I didn't. Simply removing the bolts that hold the valvebody let me get enough working room...
 
   / Any thoughts on this idea
  • Thread Starter
#13  
   / Any thoughts on this idea #14  
Carl,

In your first post, I thought you wanted to control a grapple separately. To use two different cylinders, you have to either unhook the hyd lines and connect to the other cylinder, giving slow action, or use a switching valve, or a separate control for the grapple. with faster action than the lock cylinder circuit.
 
   / Any thoughts on this idea
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Carl,

In your first post, I thought you wanted to control a grapple separately. To use two different cylinders, you have to either unhook the hyd lines and connect to the other cylinder, giving slow action, or use a switching valve, or a separate control for the grapple. with faster action than the lock cylinder circuit.

I do! I am just lazy and cheap. I am not as good with metal as I would like to be so the thought of "building" a solution is worrisome. I know with hoses I can get the job done, but the second you put a drill in my hand carnage ensues.

But, JJ, you are the one who got me to change my own hoses out and look at me now. Happy to get in and wrench any hose on my PT.
 
   / Any thoughts on this idea #18  
I do! I am just lazy and cheap. I am not as good with metal as I would like to be so the thought of "building" a solution is worrisome. I know with hoses I can get the job done, but the second you put a drill in my hand carnage ensues.

But, JJ, you are the one who got me to change my own hoses out and look at me now. Happy to get in and wrench any hose on my PT.

Carl, I am glad you changed out those hoses, that was probably half your troubles. What Charlie did is good, you can leave the switch in one position such as the grapple until you need to change implements. Have we seen a picture of your grapple? By using the PTO circuit, you get faster action, plus it has built in relief. If you wanted to slow it down, you could put restrictors in line, or put a needle valve in-line, and you can get it as slow as you want.
 
   / Any thoughts on this idea
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I do remember this and it is pretty cool... It has been in my back pocket as an idea for a while. I do love stealing ideas, thats for sure...
 

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