Any tips for removing a pin from the backhoe ?

[Sutol]

Need to remove this pin from the backhoe but it seems to be fixed to the centre arm or the arm that holds the bucket.

It is a 'LEWIS' backhoe which is made in uk btw.

It is free in the outer locating holes but will not either twist or knock either way . there are no roll pins in it or clips as I can see, the other end of the pin has a metal 'flag' on it The pin had a grease nipple screwed in the end.

Looks like the bushes in either end have worn away and we need to get it out.

Any suggestions as to how it is fixed welcome.

 

[ninefinger]

Just thinking out loud because I really do not have a clue, that said, is it possible the pin is fixed to the center arm and all you need is new bushings to drive on to the pin and find out how to keep them captive, some kind of cap ? Lots of knowledge here so someone that knows will chime in shortly.

 

[KYErik]

If all else fails and if there is a small gap between the moving parts, perhaps you could use a reciprocating saw to cut the pin on both sides of the center stationary piece, then pull the moving piece a few inches to the left and then drive out the three pin pieces.

 

[Sutol]

Pin from other side, loose fit in outer arm but solid in inner arm.

Even tried a BIG hammer

and other side again

 

[Kernopelli]

Call the company and ask for technical advice. Website doesn't look like they have online manuals. Lewis Equipment

 

[Sutol]

Call the company and ask for technical advice. Website doesn't look like they have online manuals. Lewis Equipment

Company not very helpfull on this to date.

dealer suggested I contact the company for part numbers....I thought that was their job!!

Its an old model, and not much info at the manufactureres but I would have thought that the design would have continued for some time.

 

[Scooby074]

http://thermadyne.com/arcair/products/detailProduct.html?prodID=63991002

 

[SSdoxie]

The pin is siezed to the dipper arm. The "flag" on end of pin is supposed to up tight to the boom with squared off end tight against that block welded there and there is supposed to be a bolt through the end of the flat on the pin bolting it to the boom to keep it from turn out working out.
This is very common design used in Europe.
Soak the dickens out of it with penitrating oil, then try drive that pin back in and secure it (tack weld the flat backet of the pin to boom if need be), then start it up and try working the dipper to break the corrison free. Once the dipper start rotating on the pin instead pin rotating in the boom you should be able to drive the pin out. You will have to rebuild or replace that pin support bushing on the boom at the grease zerk end.

I have seen guys use a small hand held jack hammer to drive those siezed pins out if they can get a bit smaller than the pivot pin.

 

[Baby Grand]

Please accept my apology in advance, but I have to ask - is the pin bearing weight on the outer locating holes? The only reason I ask is that it looks that way. Can you move/manipulate the center arm and the arm that holds the bucket to get the pin centered in the hole so it's not bearing any weight and then try driving it out? Just hoping for an easy (and cheap) solution.

 

[Craig Clayton]

Could you repost a few pics like the red outdoor pics but left and right views but alittle more wide angle. The up close ones have me confused.

If you need to rebore I watched a Utube vid about repairing a large excavator bucket wrist pins that had been rewelded.
This was a simple method using a 1 1/2" solid shaft by 4' long with a fly tool bit and it was supported by self aligning pillow block bearing. To power the shaft it was hooked to a heavy electric drill with reduction.
I could not find it if my life depended on it except by the Utube description.

Craig Clayton

 

[Mock1]

Possibly the straight pin has become eccentric by seizing. The gap in the photos might confirm this. Line boring is a good choice, but having the equipment is something that most people don't have.

 

[Kernopelli]

If the pin were "clipped" but not seized it would likely spin. Since it is "flagged" on one end and open w/ grease nipple on the other, there is no apparent keeper device to keep the pin in place other than the flag on one end. The design surely had some type of keeper....like a roll pin ( although looking at the design, I don't see a way a roll pin could be knocked out) so I am leaning against a roll pin too.

Just now going back and looking at the next to last picture, I see that the flag has a hole, that if rotated 180* appears to have at one time possibly aligned with what appears to be possibly a broken bolt.....or what was once the keeper mechanism for the pin? If this is the case you know the pin is meant to slide out after the keeper is freed so I think it's safe to take whatever measures necessary to remove the pin......hydraulic press, major beating, heat, cut off tool. Whatever it takes to simply get it out, then replace with new pin and bushing.

If the flag was rotated 180*, would the flag's hole match up with that thing to the left side that looks like a sheared pin or bolt?

Edit: I agree with Mock1, I think this pin has become slightly bent or eccentric/deformed and is NOT going to slide through the dipper section without SERIOUS force or having the outer end cut off.

 

[wdchyd]

If you need to rebore I watched a Utube vid about repairing a large excavator bucket wrist pins that had been rewelded.
This was a simple method using a 1 1/2" solid shaft by 4' long with a fly tool bit and it was supported by self aligning pillow block bearing. To power the shaft it was hooked to a heavy electric drill with reduction.
I could not find it if my life depended on it except by the Utube description.

Craig Clayton

Try "Borewelding and machining" on Youtube search..........

Borewelding & Machining - Tractor Videos - Kubota, John Deere, New Holland and More

 

[Sutol]

Could you repost a few pics like the red outdoor pics but left and right views but alittle more wide angle. The up close ones have me confused.

If you need to rebore I watched a Utube vid about repairing a large excavator bucket wrist pins that had been rewelded.
This was a simple method using a 1 1/2" solid shaft by 4' long with a fly tool bit and it was supported by self aligning pillow block bearing. To power the shaft it was hooked to a heavy electric drill with reduction.
I could not find it if my life depended on it except by the Utube description.

Craig Clayton

Best I can do for now, going up to the farm to have a look at it and do some painting and warming by the fire and a bit of drinking tea.

 

[SpringHollow]

Doesn't the one end look like it is welded on?

Ken

 

[JFS2295]

That's what I thought at first, but the proportions were wrong from the end of the dipper.

Here is a closer pic showing the pin.

 

[SpringHollow]

That last picture makes it easier to see the tab versus the pin - thanks.

Ken

 

[Brad_Blazer]

It looks like what's welded on is a little plate with a tapped hole for the keeper bolt which is broken off in the hole.

The grease nipple on the end of the pin should have a channel leading to the center of the boom. Some penetrating oil in a grease gun might be somewhat effective. One of these would be ideal: Great Buster and other products

An air/electric hammer applied to the flag end to get it moving/rotating would be my next action. You can optionally try a sledge hammer on the flag end followed by a big wrench to get it turning.

 

[Sutol]

Looks like the flag was bolted to the arm but has snapped off, dont know why it isn't fully home.

We have smacked it with a sledge hammer after bracing the arm with a baulk of timber and it hasn't budged, must be siezed in the centre, there is gease inside the tube as I probed with a piece of wire after removing the grease nipple.

Looks like a big job then

 

[SpringHollow]

Like others have said, try something like an impact hammer. Amazing what lots of rapid pounding can do.

Just thinking out loud but another possibility would be to have a piece of I-beam with a hole drilled through it for the bolt to pass into, with the I-beam turned crosswise to the arm. Use threaded rod to attach it to another I-beam ~ 1' on the other side of the arm. Then use a hydraulic jack or ram to push the bolt out.

Ken