any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[Xfaxman]

View attachment 607554

Better shot of the bidirectional clutch. The manual calls for a Mobil 424 fluid, is there anything else I can use? Saw a guy online used gear oil, good or bad idea?

I think gear oil is too thick.

I used some Bobcat brand fluid that I had. It was similar to Mobil 424 fluid.

 

[Xfaxman]

Are there any places a flexible line could be permanently attached? I have done that before with a grease gun extension hose on other equipment. Haven't messed with the 325D much. ---------------------------------

That one on the PTO pivot would be a good place.

And the steering pivot zerk #14 on the 2WD models:

 

[Asymair95]

Found the tractor supply universal premium hydrostatic/hyd fluid is a good match with the Mobil 424 fluid. Found it in another thread on here.

Today was a day to learn new curse words...lol.



With the pto shaft removed on the front, about 5 inches of the splines stick out of the frame. The importance of this will be realized later.



In this shot I am trying to show the pto fork clevis pin and pto brake are removed. The belt is also taken loose from the pto pulley, but not removed yet.

 

[Xfaxman]

Today was a day to learn new curse words...lol.

Why?

Looks nasty under there compared to my loader:

 

[Asymair95]

After removing the aft cotter pin, the pto hanger rod slides out the front.



There was some wear on the rod where it sits in the aft frame. Between the rod wear, and frame wear it was close to an inch of movement. Plan is to swap ends on the hanger rod when reinstalling and weld a new bushing into the aft frame support. Welding on my back with splatter landing on me isn’t going to be fun.

 

[Asymair95]

Now the curse words begin. The service manual says to remove the hanger rod and lower the pto out of the frame. Sounds easy enough, but you can not get the pto drive pulley around the welded in pto brake mounting stud. There are a few other guides that are removable, but not the brake stud. In the pic you can see how it rests on the stud with the rod removed. I tried for an hour to maneuver the pto every which way, couldn’t get it out.

 

[Asymair95]

Options were to cut off the brake stud and reweld later or remove the whole front engine mount. I chose to pull the mount as it was only four bolts. First step was to remove the rear axle drive shaft, which is fine because I had to pull the bidirectional clutch to see why it was loose.



The clutch came off next.



Found part of the reason for the loose clutch. There is an interior bushing that was worn, will order a new one.

 

[Asymair95]

Splines on the rear axle look fine.



Used a bottle jack under the engine to support it while pulling the mount.



Front mount removed.

 

[Asymair95]

Finally... pto is out. Bearings are tight, no discernible movement. Will be replacing the bronze bushings in the hanger. May also try and loosen the eccentric locking collar so I can slide the pto shaft forward about 3/8”. I checked the pto drive pulley alignment before disassembly and it was too far back. It actually ate up the belt a bit, so will just replace it while everything is apart.

 

[Asymair95]

Pressing on...



Sourced some longer hanger bushings for the pto. These are 1 1/4” long, compared to the factory 3/4” bushings. Should last a good long time.



Knocked the old bushings out with the correct size socket and mallet.



The front bushing was almost worn completely through.



New bushings installed. They were a whisker to big to fit in the housing, nothing a little Emory cloth couldn’t handle though.