Anyone have a Metal Quonset Arch-Style Buildings

[weldingisfun]

All this talk about how the Quonset style building cannot be used as a shop is interesting. I have been using a 30'X60' as a shop for over ten years. My work benches and an office are along one side wall and materiel and equipment storage along the other. The work is done in the middle. There are 14'X14' doors on each end and the height from floor to top is 16 feet. If I could have found the pics of it they would have been included. But, here are a couple showing an ongoing welding project.
Found the pictures! Assembled in July 2004.

 

[the old grind]

If cost is THE primary consideration, then I'd consider a quonset-type, but having doors/windows only on the ends doesn't appeal to me. The thought of framing them in on side-walls doesn't either. IMO. cold climates aren't the best for 'metal shell' storage.

Insulation? Spray foam or nothing, and what about interior paneling support, or for conduit, etc? Conventional or post and beam construction offer far more design/size choices and ways to insulate for shop use, and with roof opptions that won't trap condensation if one goes there.

'Red iron' or conventional are where I'm looking. Among other considerations might be lofted storage and/or ease of repairing a roof damaged by a fallen tree. btw, We don't all live in the Texas, but I'm looking to buy a second place and the State is high on my list. I expect prices to vary as much by location as by building type and I'm still looking, but "If you're going to spend the money, get what you really want!" (RJGasper)

Good luck, whatever you choose! t o g

 

[cmyoung2]

I use a 25x40 US Steel building as a shop, built it maybe 10 years ago. I have a 9'x16' door and a 3' door on one end, 3' door on other. I put it up, not terribly hard, but it does have 3900 bolts. I put mine on a 18" pony wall so I could have the 9' door and 13'center. No insulation, but a good heater makes it workable. Electric was easy, ran conduit around the walls, fastened to the connecting bolts. I have 200amp service, 2 separate 120v circuits down each side, outlets spaced 4' apart, 220v down one side for table saw, TotalShop, black iron pipe for air down one side, Air compressor-outside, separate circuits for lights and bathroom.
No leaks, some condensation drips in changing weather.
Pros- cost, fairly easy to build with 2-3 people
Cons- Not easy to insulate(spray on) Walls are not easy to use to store/hang stuff on.
Hints- read instructions, get everything very square, read instructions, then read instructions again.
I like mine, if i sell and move I might go with something different, but it would depend on cost. I do probably spend more time in the shop than I do in the house, except for sleeping.

 

[747driver]

Have crossed off the Quonset style building ! Really doesn't give me the space I need, but I wanted to check it out. Those Quonset manufactures/dealers really are a pain to deal with. Would never give me a quote on what i wanted...there response was" we have clearance buildings" that might get you cloe to what you want. Now its down to a pole barn or metal barn ???

 

[digruprguy]

I have a quonset style. 35 X 45 ft with concrete floor used as a shop. The sides are used as storage for equipment and tools and the center a shop. The shop walls are actually pretty steep so most of the building is walkable but next time I would get a raised style with flat side walls and either round or peaked roof. I only have $20,000 in the building with 220vac/200amp power in conduit, 8" concrete floor, heat, end walls, insulated 10 x 10 door and side door, 3 windows on the back wall 6' X 2' and a 12 foot high rolling gantry for that money. I have pretty much every tool made in it for metal working for working on my equipment and building machinery (and my hot rods). I used to build dump bodies for sale but my back got too bad after the 23rd one. That was my winter work.

 

[cmyoung2]

The secret in getting a quote on steel buildings is to get the salesman out to your place, preferably with no cell coverage. Talk, they make an offer, you say too high, they need to call, have to use your phone, talk more, keep saying no, too high. After a couple of hours, I got the price from 8k+ to less than 4, added to the length also. But that was 10 years ago. Not having easy cell communication for a young salesman was funny to watch, but effective.

 

[747driver]

The secret in getting a quote on steel buildings is to get the salesman out to your place, preferably with no cell coverage. Talk, they make an offer, you say too high, they need to call, have to use your phone, talk more, keep saying no, too high. After a couple of hours, I got the price from 8k+ to less than 4, added to the length also. But that was 10 years ago. Not having easy cell communication for a young salesman was funny to watch, but effective.

Well then , that would work. Where we live there is no cell service for 15 mile radius !

 

[747driver]

I have a quonset style. 35 X 45 ft with concrete floor used as a shop. The sides are used as storage for equipment and tools and the center a shop. The shop walls are actually pretty steep so most of the building is walkable but next time I would get a raised style with flat side walls and either round or peaked roof. I only have $20,000 in the building with 220vac/200amp power in conduit, 8" concrete floor, heat, end walls, insulated 10 x 10 door and side door, 3 windows on the back wall 6' X 2' and a 12 foot high rolling gantry for that money. I have pretty much every tool made in it for metal working for working on my equipment and building machinery (and my hot rods). I used to build dump bodies for sale but my back got too bad after the 23rd one. That was my winter work.

They look good for a shop. We have a 38' ft motorhome and need a min. 14 x14 door . Who was the company that made the building ?

 

[digruprguy]

Mine was a Pioneer Building made in Canada from Galvalume steel. Mine is 23 years old. Like I said I would get the straight wall, especially if you want a 14 ft high door. I think I paid something under $4,000 at the time I bought it and they can be put up without a floor if you just want it for storage. My 16 year old daughter and I put mine up back then with only an electric nut runner to tighten all the thousands of bolts it is put together with. The only insulation they recommend for steel ones is a fiberglass and vinyl inside. Foam sprayed on the inside rusts them out really quickly and voids the 50 year warranty. A fishing company up the road sprayed foam on the outside to hold fresh fish and seagulls ate the foam off from it.

 

[MotorSeven]

Here is my thread on my 30x50 and yep, I would do it all over again, except bigger. Pony up and have the thing spray foamed....insulation problem solved.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/97429-truth-about-arched-steel-buildings.html?highlight=

They are not what I would call difficult to put up, but they are time consuming.

 

[digruprguy]

The secret in getting a quote on steel buildings is to get the salesman out to your place, preferably with no cell coverage. Talk, they make an offer, you say too high, they need to call, have to use your phone, talk more, keep saying no, too high. After a couple of hours, I got the price from 8k+ to less than 4, added to the length also. But that was 10 years ago. Not having easy cell communication for a young salesman was funny to watch, but effective.

When my salesman came I was installing a parquet floor in my foyer and wasn't about to stop. It frustrated him but helped me negotiate a lower price and got some extras added at no cost.

 

[FarmWrench]

I have one of the last standing Martin arched buildings.

You have already ruled it out so I won't bother you with details.

Steel buildings require a significant and highly precise foundation. Steel always looks better until the foundation gets figured out.

Steel often has frames that eat several feet and girts that may hang 8" off those frames. An 8" pole with commercial girts gives you a nice flat wall to finish.

Poles get a bad reputation for going cheap. Explain that you want enough truss load to hand solar panels and a dry wall ceiling and maybe massive fans. If you don't you get a load for the air up there and no more.

747, it looks like tx is where the building is going?

 

[747driver]

I have one of the last standing Martin arched buildings.

You have already ruled it out so I won't bother you with details.

Steel buildings require a significant and highly precise foundation. Steel always looks better until the foundation gets figured out.

Steel often has frames that eat several feet and girts that may hang 8" off those frames. An 8" pole with commercial girts gives you a nice flat wall to finish.

Poles get a bad reputation for going cheap. Explain that you want enough truss load to hand solar panels and a dry wall ceiling and maybe massive fans. If you don't you get a load for the air up there and no more.

747, it looks like tx is where the building is going?

We live in the Tenn. mountains. I am not going to finish the inside. I will be building storage shelves. To me the advantage with metal is there will be no trusses taking up overhead space.

 

[747driver]

Here is my thread on my 30x50 and yep, I would do it all over again, except bigger. Pony up and have the thing spray foamed....insulation problem solved.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/97429-truth-about-arched-steel-buildings.html?highlight=

They are not what I would call difficult to put up, but they are time consuming.

You built a very nice building ! How has the spray foam held up against the metal structure ? Have heard it makes them vulnerable to rust ? If I didn't need so much height due to the motorhome I may have went with the Quonset style.

 

[FarmWrench]

Sorry on the location. Some of the best advice that usually isn't taken is to build as big as the lot, zoning and budget allows.

Divisions of 3' is what most steel is. Wood by 2' increments. Usually thing in the nominal 12' become most cost effective. If the building isn't divisible by 3 then you pay for a sheet of steel and cut it up, throw remainder away.

Also check on what interior height is compared to eave height.

 

[747driver]

I got a quote for a 30x50 x16 pole barn. It was $32,000 complete..no concrete floor though. I am having a 'red iron' builder come out tomorrow to give me a quote. Interesting that the builder uses Renegade 'red iron' buildings. As I had already gotten a complete materials quote earlier in the day from Renegade without knowing who I was going to get to erect it. The Renegade materials quote was for $18,000...no floor, I was going to pour my own perimeter footings and do the floor later. I can't think it will cost $15,000 to erect it....I will find out tomorrow !!

 

[MotorSeven]

You built a very nice building ! How has the spray foam held up against the metal structure ? Have heard it makes them vulnerable to rust ? If I didn't need so much height due to the motorhome I may have went with the Quonset style.

It's been 11 years, no rust or signs of it on the panels. However, many of the zinc fastener heads are rusting a bit over the entire building. How much height do you need? If I remember right, mine is 15.5' in the center. Most put them on a knee-wall to gain even more height if needed, although it does add cost.