Anyone here built a deck lately???

Slamfire · Jun 4, 2006

I like to dig a shallow hole and dump in some gravel. This helps to level out the concrete block I set the posts on. I like 4x4" posts every 8' and 2x8 joists on 16" centers, with hangers. Free standing is the only way to go, my back porch was attached to the trailer by some clowns who I found out were heavy dopers. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Built a small one for the front, well braced. The wife's chihuahua can make the back porch vibrate by trotting across it. I can't budge the front one. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Slamfire · Jun 4, 2006

I like to dig a shallow hole and dump in some gravel. This helps to level out the concrete block I set the posts on. I like 4x4" posts every 8' and 2x8 joists on 16" centers, with hangers. Free standing is the only way to go, my back porch was attached to the trailer by some clowns who I found out were heavy dopers. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Built a small one for the front, well braced. The wife's chihuahua can make the back porch vibrate by trotting across it. I can't budge the front one. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Builder · Jun 4, 2006

( "Hey everyone,

I am getting ready to build a deck that will be coming off the back off a house trailer that we are putting in. It is an incline so the floor level will actually be about 5' above the ground. I am thinking that I will end up wanting to build something like a 12x24' or somethinig of that nature. I would also like to have a hand rail and build some benches on the sides. On the center of the deck I would also like to put a set of stairs leading down to the ground level.

What spacing should I do my posts and what size should they be?")

I'm assuming you mean your deck will be 12' deep and 24' wide. Sraight from my CABO "deck design criteria" chart:
Your post spacing will be 7'-0" IF you use a 2) 2"x10" drop girder style beam (a beam which sits under the joists) AND if you cantilever the deck 2' out past the beam. IOW-you set the beam & posts at 10' while the edge of the deck is actually 12' (2 feet beyond the beam). If you don't cantilever the beam and you put it out at the edge of the deck, then your post spacing would be 6'-4".

( "For the floor joists what size lumber should it be? I'm guessing that I will use 12' pieces but was unsure of whether if needed to be a 2x8 or something different?")

2x8's are perfect for a 12' deck. They can span up to 10'-10". That way you can set your beam at 10' from the house and the joists will have only spanned 10' (which is less than the 10'-10" maximum) then you can cantilever your deck 2'-0" beyond the beam to get your desired 12' deck depth. If you decide to put the beam out at the edge of the deck at 12', then you'll be required to step up to a 2x10 joist, since the span of the joists will now exceed the 10'-10" maximum allowed on a 2x8.

Therefore, I'd use a 2x8 joist and a 2)2x10 beam with a 2' cantilever. That way you save on lumber and swinging the heavy 2x10's around.

( "Is putting the posts in a hole and setting them in concrete going to be the best way for the deck to last a long time? I had a buddy that mentioned that there were other alternatives that would not take as long to do but if I need to sink them in concrete to make it last longer then that is what I would prefer to do.")

Here's the BEST way to build deck footings: Dig 3' deep x12" diameter holes with a pair of posthole diggers in a perfectly straight line. Space them evenly (at the 7'0" spacing I told you above) (your posts may be allowed to be shallower in warmer climates). Fill the holes to the top with concrete mix. Place a Simpson post base braket anchor bolt in the wet concrete. Make sure all the bolts line up in a straight line (use a string line to check them). Once they dry, you bolt the bracket base to the bolt in the footing. Then you install your deck post into the bracket using hot dipped galvanized nails suitable for PTL.

Alt method: Dig footing holes as described above. Put about 12" of concrete in the bottom of each footing. Allow to dry. Put posts into footing holes on top of dried concrete.

Thsi method is OK, it's simpler and allows you to be a bit more sloppy with your measurements since the post doesn't have to be perfectly accurate on the footing, but it allows the post to come in contact with the ground and may expedite the deterioration process. The preferred method above keeps the post up out of the ground.

( "Any tips/advice would be great.........a pic of your craftsmanship would be great too )

I would avois the steps in the center of the deck since they will eat-up a lot of your "prime space" in your deck and be a safety hazard as well. Instead, consider putting them on the side of the deck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Builder · Jun 4, 2006

( "Hey everyone,

I am getting ready to build a deck that will be coming off the back off a house trailer that we are putting in. It is an incline so the floor level will actually be about 5' above the ground. I am thinking that I will end up wanting to build something like a 12x24' or somethinig of that nature. I would also like to have a hand rail and build some benches on the sides. On the center of the deck I would also like to put a set of stairs leading down to the ground level.

What spacing should I do my posts and what size should they be?")

I'm assuming you mean your deck will be 12' deep and 24' wide. Sraight from my CABO "deck design criteria" chart:
Your post spacing will be 7'-0" IF you use a 2) 2"x10" drop girder style beam (a beam which sits under the joists) AND if you cantilever the deck 2' out past the beam. IOW-you set the beam & posts at 10' while the edge of the deck is actually 12' (2 feet beyond the beam). If you don't cantilever the beam and you put it out at the edge of the deck, then your post spacing would be 6'-4".

( "For the floor joists what size lumber should it be? I'm guessing that I will use 12' pieces but was unsure of whether if needed to be a 2x8 or something different?")

2x8's are perfect for a 12' deck. They can span up to 10'-10". That way you can set your beam at 10' from the house and the joists will have only spanned 10' (which is less than the 10'-10" maximum) then you can cantilever your deck 2'-0" beyond the beam to get your desired 12' deck depth. If you decide to put the beam out at the edge of the deck at 12', then you'll be required to step up to a 2x10 joist, since the span of the joists will now exceed the 10'-10" maximum allowed on a 2x8.

Therefore, I'd use a 2x8 joist and a 2)2x10 beam with a 2' cantilever. That way you save on lumber and swinging the heavy 2x10's around.

( "Is putting the posts in a hole and setting them in concrete going to be the best way for the deck to last a long time? I had a buddy that mentioned that there were other alternatives that would not take as long to do but if I need to sink them in concrete to make it last longer then that is what I would prefer to do.")

Here's the BEST way to build deck footings: Dig 3' deep x12" diameter holes with a pair of posthole diggers in a perfectly straight line. Space them evenly (at the 7'0" spacing I told you above) (your posts may be allowed to be shallower in warmer climates). Fill the holes to the top with concrete mix. Place a Simpson post base braket anchor bolt in the wet concrete. Make sure all the bolts line up in a straight line (use a string line to check them). Once they dry, you bolt the bracket base to the bolt in the footing. Then you install your deck post into the bracket using hot dipped galvanized nails suitable for PTL.

Alt method: Dig footing holes as described above. Put about 12" of concrete in the bottom of each footing. Allow to dry. Put posts into footing holes on top of dried concrete.

Thsi method is OK, it's simpler and allows you to be a bit more sloppy with your measurements since the post doesn't have to be perfectly accurate on the footing, but it allows the post to come in contact with the ground and may expedite the deterioration process. The preferred method above keeps the post up out of the ground.

( "Any tips/advice would be great.........a pic of your craftsmanship would be great too )

I would avois the steps in the center of the deck since they will eat-up a lot of your "prime space" in your deck and be a safety hazard as well. Instead, consider putting them on the side of the deck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Builder · Jun 4, 2006

One other thing:

Just PM me or ask me anything on your deck. I've built over 200 of them in the last 20 years.

Builder · Jun 4, 2006

One other thing:

Just PM me or ask me anything on your deck. I've built over 200 of them in the last 20 years.

bugstruck · Jun 4, 2006

Good advice. Your span is correct and mine is wrong without my even looking. I have tables that state 11'-11" for the yellow pine but there is a reduction for exterior application that mine isn't allowing for. As you noted, the cantilevered beam is the best option whenever your far enough above grade to get one in. One thing about the span tables is they vary somewhat even on interior-only materials, same species, same spacing, same loading, same deflection, etc. Always have. Of course everything spans farther today than it did 25 years ago??? With all the improvement in wood quality that's easy to figure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I remember 2 x 10 hem fir @16" OC dropping off same loading chart about 14" shorter than today. Must be the global warming. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No matter, you took more time on the reply and gave better direction.

bugstruck · Jun 4, 2006

Good advice. Your span is correct and mine is wrong without my even looking. I have tables that state 11'-11" for the yellow pine but there is a reduction for exterior application that mine isn't allowing for. As you noted, the cantilevered beam is the best option whenever your far enough above grade to get one in. One thing about the span tables is they vary somewhat even on interior-only materials, same species, same spacing, same loading, same deflection, etc. Always have. Of course everything spans farther today than it did 25 years ago??? With all the improvement in wood quality that's easy to figure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I remember 2 x 10 hem fir @16" OC dropping off same loading chart about 14" shorter than today. Must be the global warming. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No matter, you took more time on the reply and gave better direction.

leeinmemphis · Jun 5, 2006

Thanks for all the info! I am going to have the trailer delivered in about 10 days and then I can do some measuring/layout prior to making a list of matierals. My wife wanted me to move it a little so the deck actually won't be quite as high off the grade as I anticipated. Thanks again!

leeinmemphis · Jun 5, 2006

Thanks for all the info! I am going to have the trailer delivered in about 10 days and then I can do some measuring/layout prior to making a list of matierals. My wife wanted me to move it a little so the deck actually won't be quite as high off the grade as I anticipated. Thanks again!

hsvhobbit · Jun 5, 2006

I'm bad to grossly overbuild decks. Have built only 3 so far. I'm fond of screws and bolts for pretty much all my fastners. I've used the synthetic decking and like it though it's very flexible compared to the normal 2x6 decking I've used. Just means some tighter spacing on the joists.

I like using 2x8's for the banding and joists, lagbolted to the 4x4 or 4x6 (depending on my mood lol), I try to use 4 foot centers on the posts (I know, it's overkill) but don't have heartburn with 8 foot centers. I've used the pierblocks but for my future decks will set them in concrete probably 3' deep. The pierblocks just don't give any lateral stability so I end up having to crossbrace the heck outta it.

I like 2' centers on the joists but when I used the synthetic I had to go to 16" centers to avoid spring.

I always sit down and mentally build the deck in my head and on paper right from digging the posthole/settin the pierblocks and spec out every board right down to it's dimensions...the only area I fudge on is I'll usually buy an extra stair stringer (I'm lousy cutting stairs) and I buy a few extra 2x4's, maybe an extra 2x6 deck board.

After the first deck I decided that 5lb boxes of 3" deck screws were a hassle, seemed I'd run out and need an emergency trip to the store. Got smart and bought a 25lb box of them. Likewise bought a box of 100 lagbolts so I don't have to worry about fasteners

This is all an expensive way to build a deck but I end up with a solid one with no spring. If I was doing it to make a profit, I'd probably stretch out my spacing on the joists/posts some.

hsvhobbit · Jun 5, 2006

I'm bad to grossly overbuild decks. Have built only 3 so far. I'm fond of screws and bolts for pretty much all my fastners. I've used the synthetic decking and like it though it's very flexible compared to the normal 2x6 decking I've used. Just means some tighter spacing on the joists.

I like using 2x8's for the banding and joists, lagbolted to the 4x4 or 4x6 (depending on my mood lol), I try to use 4 foot centers on the posts (I know, it's overkill) but don't have heartburn with 8 foot centers. I've used the pierblocks but for my future decks will set them in concrete probably 3' deep. The pierblocks just don't give any lateral stability so I end up having to crossbrace the heck outta it.

I like 2' centers on the joists but when I used the synthetic I had to go to 16" centers to avoid spring.

I always sit down and mentally build the deck in my head and on paper right from digging the posthole/settin the pierblocks and spec out every board right down to it's dimensions...the only area I fudge on is I'll usually buy an extra stair stringer (I'm lousy cutting stairs) and I buy a few extra 2x4's, maybe an extra 2x6 deck board.

After the first deck I decided that 5lb boxes of 3" deck screws were a hassle, seemed I'd run out and need an emergency trip to the store. Got smart and bought a 25lb box of them. Likewise bought a box of 100 lagbolts so I don't have to worry about fasteners

This is all an expensive way to build a deck but I end up with a solid one with no spring. If I was doing it to make a profit, I'd probably stretch out my spacing on the joists/posts some.

dooleysm · Jun 5, 2006

Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement?

dooleysm · Jun 5, 2006

Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement?

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement? )

10'-10" is the max span on a deck for a PT 2x8" at 16" o/c. The only excuse for increasing to 24" o/c is if you would use 2x6" PTL or Ipe' as decking instead of 5/4" x 6" PTL decking.

I never use 4x4 posts for any deck. They're too apt to twist and just don't have enough meat to cut out for a beam. Use 6x6's and the project is much nicer for a few bucks more.

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement? )

10'-10" is the max span on a deck for a PT 2x8" at 16" o/c. The only excuse for increasing to 24" o/c is if you would use 2x6" PTL or Ipe' as decking instead of 5/4" x 6" PTL decking.

I never use 4x4 posts for any deck. They're too apt to twist and just don't have enough meat to cut out for a beam. Use 6x6's and the project is much nicer for a few bucks more.

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Good advice. Your span is correct and mine is wrong without my even looking. I have tables that state 11'-11" for the yellow pine but there is a reduction for exterior application that mine isn't allowing for. As you noted, the cantilevered beam is the best option whenever your far enough above grade to get one in. One thing about the span tables is they vary somewhat even on interior-only materials, same species, same spacing, same loading, same deflection, etc. Always have. Of course everything spans farther today than it did 25 years ago??? With all the improvement in wood quality that's easy to figure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I remember 2 x 10 hem fir @16" OC dropping off same loading chart about 14" shorter than today. Must be the global warming. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No matter, you took more time on the reply and gave better direction. )

The spans I gave are for #2 PT S. yellow pine-your typical deck framing lumber. Now you can span further with #1 grade PT SYP. I typically use ONLY #1 on all my projects for appearance and extra span capability. Typically, #1 can span ~10% further than #2. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif but check your span tables, then build.

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Good advice. Your span is correct and mine is wrong without my even looking. I have tables that state 11'-11" for the yellow pine but there is a reduction for exterior application that mine isn't allowing for. As you noted, the cantilevered beam is the best option whenever your far enough above grade to get one in. One thing about the span tables is they vary somewhat even on interior-only materials, same species, same spacing, same loading, same deflection, etc. Always have. Of course everything spans farther today than it did 25 years ago??? With all the improvement in wood quality that's easy to figure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I remember 2 x 10 hem fir @16" OC dropping off same loading chart about 14" shorter than today. Must be the global warming. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No matter, you took more time on the reply and gave better direction. )

The spans I gave are for #2 PT S. yellow pine-your typical deck framing lumber. Now you can span further with #1 grade PT SYP. I typically use ONLY #1 on all my projects for appearance and extra span capability. Typically, #1 can span ~10% further than #2. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif but check your span tables, then build.

bugstruck · Jun 5, 2006

Roger all that. I was on # 2 S. YP. Something I picked-up on years ago was that exterior application tables reduced spans for the same material and same live/dead loadings and spacing. Not sure exactly why but I observed it on PT deck spans 20+ years ago. Perhaps it's the PT process itself or the exterior application, but something they are factoring shortens the spans on PT vs. non PT materials. Here is the link I incorrectly referenced. southern pine span tables
That's too far for a 2 x 8 at 50/10 loading on an exterior deck and we know that. Now perhaps your on a 50/15 table but that shouldn't grab a full foot. The only other possibility I can think of for the PT deck span reductions is the decking itself but that supposes a compression failure IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Not likely. Interesting stuff to us construction types. Booooring to most. Good discussion L39.

bugstruck · Jun 5, 2006

Roger all that. I was on # 2 S. YP. Something I picked-up on years ago was that exterior application tables reduced spans for the same material and same live/dead loadings and spacing. Not sure exactly why but I observed it on PT deck spans 20+ years ago. Perhaps it's the PT process itself or the exterior application, but something they are factoring shortens the spans on PT vs. non PT materials. Here is the link I incorrectly referenced. southern pine span tables
That's too far for a 2 x 8 at 50/10 loading on an exterior deck and we know that. Now perhaps your on a 50/15 table but that shouldn't grab a full foot. The only other possibility I can think of for the PT deck span reductions is the decking itself but that supposes a compression failure IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Not likely. Interesting stuff to us construction types. Booooring to most. Good discussion L39.