</font><font color="blue" class="small">( "Hey everyone,
I am getting ready to build a deck that will be coming off the back off a house trailer that we are putting in. It is an incline so the floor level will actually be about 5' above the ground. I am thinking that I will end up wanting to build something like a 12x24' or somethinig of that nature. I would also like to have a hand rail and build some benches on the sides. On the center of the deck I would also like to put a set of stairs leading down to the ground level.
What spacing should I do my posts and what size should they be?")</font>
I'm assuming you mean your deck will be 12' deep and 24' wide. Sraight from my CABO "deck design criteria" chart:
Your post spacing will be 7'-0" IF you use a 2) 2"x10" drop girder style beam (a beam which sits under the joists) AND if you cantilever the deck 2' out past the beam. IOW-you set the beam & posts at 10' while the edge of the deck is actually 12' (2 feet beyond the beam). If you don't cantilever the beam and you put it out at the edge of the deck, then your post spacing would be 6'-4".
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( "For the floor joists what size lumber should it be? I'm guessing that I will use 12' pieces but was unsure of whether if needed to be a 2x8 or something different?")</font>
2x8's are perfect for a 12' deck. They can span up to 10'-10". That way you can set your beam at 10' from the house and the joists will have only spanned 10' (which is less than the 10'-10" maximum) then you can cantilever your deck 2'-0" beyond the beam to get your desired 12' deck depth. If you decide to put the beam out at the edge of the deck at 12', then you'll be required to step up to a 2x10 joist, since the span of the joists will now exceed the 10'-10" maximum allowed on a 2x8.
Therefore, I'd use a 2x8 joist and a 2)2x10 beam with a 2' cantilever. That way you save on lumber and swinging the heavy 2x10's around.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( "Is putting the posts in a hole and setting them in concrete going to be the best way for the deck to last a long time? I had a buddy that mentioned that there were other alternatives that would not take as long to do but if I need to sink them in concrete to make it last longer then that is what I would prefer to do.")</font>
Here's the BEST way to build deck footings: Dig 3' deep x12" diameter holes with a pair of posthole diggers in a perfectly straight line. Space them evenly (at the 7'0" spacing I told you above) (your posts may be allowed to be shallower in warmer climates). Fill the holes to the top with concrete mix. Place a Simpson post base braket anchor bolt in the wet concrete. Make sure all the bolts line up in a straight line (use a string line to check them). Once they dry, you bolt the bracket base to the bolt in the footing. Then you install your deck post into the bracket using hot dipped galvanized nails suitable for PTL.
Alt method: Dig footing holes as described above. Put about 12" of concrete in the bottom of each footing. Allow to dry. Put posts into footing holes on top of dried concrete.
Thsi method is OK, it's simpler and allows you to be a bit more sloppy with your measurements since the post doesn't have to be perfectly accurate on the footing, but it allows the post to come in contact with the ground and may expedite the deterioration process. The preferred method above keeps the post up out of the ground.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( "Any tips/advice would be great.........a pic of your craftsmanship would be great too )</font>
I would avois the steps in the center of the deck since they will eat-up a lot of your "prime space" in your deck and be a safety hazard as well. Instead, consider putting them on the side of the deck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
