Anyone know how I can harden home made skids?

Scooby074 · Jun 22, 2009

Yep hard face rods are the answer. I suppose you could weld on some AR plate (if you have a local supply that carries it).Or find a old cutting edge off a grader or dozer.

As for patterns, there was a pic online ill see if i can find, but a waffle or herringbone pattern should work. Good info (lousy pics) here :http://www.hobartbrothers.com/aboutus/hard_surfacing-2/

BayouMan · Jun 23, 2009

Hey Scooby,
What is AR plate? Is that hardened plate?

Thanks,

Mike

Scooby074 · Jun 23, 2009

Yep, Abrasion Resistant plate. Might be a little hard to find. A good place to look for ar stuff is your local highway dept. See if they have any old grader cutting edges. THey come in ~4' sections. Really good quality steel, and you may get it on the cheap. It gets too worn for the graders, but there is still lots of material there.

J_J · Jun 23, 2009

BayouMan ,

The sides on a normal box-blade is not as long as the sides on yours. Your box-blade looks like it was designed to pull behind a very large tractor, as you would be pulling a lot of dirt, with the skids flat on the ground. Do you pull it with the full length of the runners on the ground or let the front of the runner sort of float. I only have about 12 in on the sides on my box-blade, and therefore, it would not be much to build up/repair. Maybe some A400 steel strips welded on would extend the wear time factor.

On the welding of the hard surface, the cross ways welding is not the way to go, because it will act like little scraper blades and dig a channel. Three or four beads, length wise down the runner would be the way to go. You might do small strips, but at least cover the bottom of the runner. You know, 10 in beads, skip 4 in, another 10 in set and so forth. JMHO

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J_J · Jun 23, 2009

Just bolt on some steel strips, with plow bolts, and when worn out, simply replace, make like new.

http://www.wearcon.com/shop/wearplate_info.aspx

http://www.chapelsteel.com/ar400-ar360.html

Egon · Jun 23, 2009

http://www.stoodyind.com/Catalogs/FISC/05catpg358.pdf

Here is a site that gives some explanation of hard facing and weld patterns for different soil materials.

J_J · Jun 23, 2009

Egon said:
http://www.stoodyind.com/Catalogs/FISC/05catpg358.pdf

Here is a site that gives some explanation of hard facing and weld patterns for different soil materials.

Good article, but read item # 47 again, about runners.

Egon · Jun 23, 2009

Yup, I read the whole thing.

The type of pattern definitely depends on the materials being worked in.

Seems I did mention a runner.

patrick_g · Jun 23, 2009

Hard surface rod on wear areas as Egon suggests is a good way. I have case hardened things using a product called Kasenit.

If this isn't the way to go on this project keep it in mind for when you need surface hardness to reduce wear but you still need the properties of flexibility etc of the original material. Trying to temper the whole piece may embrittle it. Surface rod and case hardening are a couple good ways to leave the base material relatively unchanged but get a good hard surface.

Pat

Spudland_Dave · Jun 23, 2009

IMO.... In Keeping true to the KISS theory, I'd just run with it "As Is" and just keep a better eye on the Replaceable strip...IMO The Problem isnt normal steel wears out too quickly...the TRUE Problem is you didnt keep an eye on it and replace it when it was time....

"Normal" 3/8"x2 Flatstock isnt expensive and I'd think you'd be ahead of the game even if you had to replace it every 5 years..

Hardfacing rods arent cheap, and I dunno if you'd get the Max "Return of Investement" with the hardfacing, etc...

I can see Harfacing being very useful when "protecting" or extending the life of a bucket that cost 6-7 thousand dollars, but on a strip of steel that cost 10-15 bucks?