Anyone leave their tractor out in the weather?

[sam5570]

I used t-111 for my three outbuildings, and I'm less than thrilled. I've got several places where the outer ply is coming loose, even though I've kept it stained. It does that especially on the 8" strips I ripped for fascias, but also in a few places in the siding panels. Maybe a more robust coating than the semi-transparent stain I used would have helped. As a minimum I'd recommending using something else for the fascias.

Terry

i used the 1x 6 fascias treated been there for over 20 years no problem.

 

[cdaigle430]

I am getting tired of running outside to cover my bx25 with a tarp everytime it threatens rain. It does not rain in Phoenix very often but still... The desert sun is probably harder on the tractor than the rain.
The dealers leave them out in the weather on their lots.

Anyone else leave their tractors out in the open?
Any suggestions on cheap carport kits?
Thanks

My tractor has two homes, a 24'x24' garage and a 12' by 20' shed. I bought a brand new pre built shed last month for 3k and my tractor is sitting in it right now. I'm not worried at all about it being exposed to the elements, I am worried about people stealing it or parts off of it.

 

[Mark Page]

Can you go into more detail? I was thinking about both a stone floor and T-111, and would be curious to know your thoughts!

My building sits out of the sun and consequently holds moisture under the stone in the dirt. Whith temperature changes I get serious condensation on anything metal. I did'nt put down a vapor barrier before the stone. Concrete would have been best, but at that point the war chest was running low. I was concerned that water would get in and stay there.
I've threatened to remove the stone, put down a barrier and replace the stone. Now that I have a loader I just might do that.
T1-11 is not very impervious to rot. You need to keep the bottom of each sheet as high off the ground as possible or water will splash up, be absorbed and cause rot.
If I had that to do over I would have used 4/4 Oak board and batten style siding. I was in a hurry to get my tractor out of storage and the T1-11 did go fast with stainless ring shank nails.
You need to find a way to seal the bottom of the T1-11.
I would recommend you use some thing other that pine for any trim you may plan to use.

 

[homeputter]

Thanks for all the input. I am building a garage at my cabin and my bx25 will be parked inside during the summer. What I am worried about is the 9 months in the winter when it will be in the sun in Phoenix. Garage is too full of "stuff" to park anything inside. I plan on looking into buying one of the "temporary" structures with cloth/synthetic covers.

 

[bucktaker]

Ditto on the t-111 siding concerns. My barn is with innerseal type wood siding and after 15 years is falling apart. The purlins are ok but I will be removing al the Innerseal Wood siding and replacing it with metal. I have a wood/shingle roof with good sofitt venting so condesation should only be on the side walls.

 

[Carl_NH]

Total cost: $240. Has stood up to some pretty nasty winds.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/photos/216293-tractor-shade-around-250-a.html

Very clean and nice looking B21 Dennis.. You take good care of your machine

 

[s219]

My building sits out of the sun and consequently holds moisture under the stone in the dirt. Whith temperature changes I get serious condensation on anything metal. I did'nt put down a vapor barrier before the stone. Concrete would have been best, but at that point the war chest was running low. I was concerned that water would get in and stay there.
I've threatened to remove the stone, put down a barrier and replace the stone. Now that I have a loader I just might do that.
T1-11 is not very impervious to rot. You need to keep the bottom of each sheet as high off the ground as possible or water will splash up, be absorbed and cause rot.
If I had that to do over I would have used 4/4 Oak board and batten style siding. I was in a hurry to get my tractor out of storage and the T1-11 did go fast with stainless ring shank nails.
You need to find a way to seal the bottom of the T1-11.
I would recommend you use some thing other that pine for any trim you may plan to use.

Thanks for the additional info. I think it's definitely important to put down a vapor barrier under a gravel floor, and even under concrete too. I was planning to use something like #57 gravel, pea gravel, or crusher run for a floor, with a couple layers of plastic and road fabric underneath (plastic to be the vapor barrier, and then road fabric on top of the plastic to protect from punctures).

I used T-111 on a shed I built in 2003, and so far it is holding up OK in most spots. I did cover it with two coats of good Valspar paint, including the bottom edge. The only place I had problems were on the front door -- water and dirt got trapped in between the T-111 and the trim board on the bottom, and some sort of fungus/mushroom grew there. Before I knew it, the entire bottom of the door had rotted away.

I'd probably use T-111 again as long as I was going to paint it (and this time I'd caulk any trim joints). For my new barn, I'd really like to get some of my pines sawed up and do a board/batten siding, but I need to see how many big pines get felled when we clear the driveway -- not sure if there will be enough of them. The appeal of board/batten is that the siding can be nailed up with green wood, so I could get it sawn up and build with it soon after. It would still be a lot more work than using sheet siding like T-111.

I've also considered doing a fake board/batten with sheets of plywood and firring strips. The trick would be finding a good exterior grade plywood. For our house, we will use Hardie Panel sheets to do board/batten, but I'm sure that's too expensive for a barn (not to mention very heavy for me to handle alone).

 

[Longhorntractor]

I store mine in a Conex box. Crawls right up in the box; stays nice and dry free from the elements and knuckleheads looking to bother it!

 

[AGGIE00]

I hate faded paint so it stays inside or at least under the lean to. The mx8 stays inside too to limit rust. Everything else is on the implement line outside.

 

[D7E]

It's quite normal to leave kit outside especially the older stuff but sometimes combines /swathers stay out too ...theres only so much shed space .