API Oil Ratings

[ihookem]

Ok Diesel Power ( diesel mech and lubrication salesman) you got me beat .I'm just a dumb carpenter, but hear it goes to settle the arguments about a subject that's almost goofy, does anyone know of anyone running Amsoil that had engines break down because of bad Amsoil? I don't know if I trust API, if Amsoil is that good I guess they can brag. I never heard an actual bad thing about Amsoil or any synthetic for that matter. Anyone else?

 

[DieselPower]

Never said there was anything wrong with Amsoil. It is a excellent oil. Was just trying to clarify that all of their oils are not API licensed. Have I ever seen a engine break down because of the use of Amsoil, nope. In fact I can't think of any engine I have seen break down because of any oil, any maker's that was used in the intended engine or equipment it was designed for. Most any oil made today far exceeds the quality of older oils. Even today's cheap stuff is leaps and bounds ahead of 1970's engine oils as far as quality and performance goes. It's just that some are better than others and can help increase the life, efficiency and even free up a little power. I myself support the API system. It by no means is a indicator of how good a oil is but is a minimum standard that oils must meet and is a good guide for formulators to use to build upon when formulating higher quality products.

 

[frank_miller]

Amsoil have 2 oils API certs. Their XL line and their 15w-40 Blend. I only know of one engine that had issues like 15 years ago and Amsoil paid for it. The kicker is this is their lower class oils (and a ripoff). I also bet they cert'ed these oils since some people worry about an oil with API sticker on it. It is a money maker for them.

They want to change as they see fit (amsoil) and this is a good thing. If this symbol means something then go by it. If not, you will get a better oil if you select Redline, Amsoil (non API cert'ed oils) etc. Based on Amsoil's past, they will not cut corners. I do not sell it just use it and know what I see.

I look at it like this. You have Walmart "synthetic", grp3 (API cert) and Amsoil SSS (non API cert). What is better is clearly seen in the UOA and both are "synthetics".

I do agree that todays SM oils are good but not great. Amsoil XL series can go well over 7,500 but it will not stay up with some of their other oils.

 

[Sully2]

I do agree that todays SM oils are good but not great. Amsoil XL series can go well over 7,500 but it will not stay up with some of their other oils.

But what gets me is that SOME PEOPLE...cant get it thru their heads that MANY..and I mean MOST makers of "internal combustion engines" WONT GUARANTEE their product if you are ONLY changing your oil every 7500 miles. It dont matter if the oil is good for 250 million miles...if you dont have PROOF you didnt change it PER THEIR REQUIREMENTS...your up the crrrk if you develop a problem.

And dont tell me it aint so either because Im on my way tonight to pick UP a car I had to have TRAILERED to the Honda dealers for what I thought MAY HAVE BEEN a blown seal ( lost 2 1/2 qts of oil in a little more than 100 yards of running.) The oil filter blew out on it! The only filters Honda will "guarantee" is their own branded models...that would have cost m "oil; and a new filter"...this cost me another 38$ for "diagnostics"...
Im first to agree there is more to life than constant oil changes...but ya have to stop and think if life is an attempt to get anoter "50 feet" out of the present oil too! ( or another 20 hrs of working time..or whatever.)

 

[frank_miller]

But what gets me is that SOME PEOPLE...cant get it thru their heads that MANY..and I mean MOST makers of "internal combustion engines" WONT GUARANTEE their product if you are ONLY changing your oil every 7500 miles. It dont matter if the oil is good for 250 million miles...if you dont have PROOF you didnt change it PER THEIR REQUIREMENTS...your up SH** CRICK if you develop a problem.
( or another 20 hrs of working time..or whatever.)

Umm, there is nothing in my manuals that states I MUST following anything per their REQUIREMENTS". All they states is what they "recommend"? Based on FOS, MTBF you are fine. Never had a manual state any "requirements" in oil or fluids. Most it says is I must change spark plugs due to emission standards. Even that is a huge grey line. Again, based on design factors it is total fluff.

The dealer will not trust you even if you had the receipts from some oil you bought. Prove you installed it etc. I have been though this debate 100000 times. The only true way to do it is a UOA. Then it is case closed. I know many major manufactures that trust only this. I also know that certain manufactures on stating to drain according to UOA and not hours/miles too.

Sorry I only have been doing extended drain about 16 years and have yet to have issue with anything longer drain related. I would not have issues of getting 50 more feet out of my oil. Based on UOA and many baselines I have completed, not even an issue.

Seems your Honda dealer MIGHT be taking you for a ride (based on you might have this that). Honda does not make filters. Of course Honda states that since they are putting the blame on that; Easy way out. Most Honda, Toyota oil filters are worse then Walmart in design. Sounds like you have a filter issue or installation issue (if due to filter).

To close if you think getting UOA are used for getting another "50 feet" out of the present oil too" you are missing the main objective. I used UOA to tell me the engine condition and the oil longevity is a bonus. I want the best performace vs budget. So sorry I see what goes into manuals for trucks and I will trust UOA and not a manual that "recommends" everything and anything (not requires) for $$$$.

But do what makes you fell good. CHEERS

 

[kenmac]

What brand filter were you using ?? Mabe you need to step up to a better grade filter . I can understand honda not willing to guarantee xyz brand oil filter

 

[LTEnterprises]

In fact I can't think of any engine I have seen break down because of any oil, any maker's that was used in the intended engine or equipment it was designed for. Most any oil made today far exceeds the quality of older oils. Even today's cheap stuff is leaps and bounds ahead of 1970's engine oils as far as quality and performance goes. .

sorry to bring this up in 2012, but I have documented PROOF that valvoline STILL has dangerous amounts of parrafin. And NOW that engines are not turning cooling fans on until 227*F, the parrafin is MAKING IT INTO THE OIL PAN, re-solidifying, AND stopping the oil pickup tubes up. Had an 05 sedona DOHC v-6 recently, changed his oil RELIGIOUSLY every 3k miles, oil light flickered once, instant oil change said " you NEED to change it every 1500k miles...came to me on a hook. Long story short, pickup tube clogged with valvosluge, starved the OHC's for lube...end of engine.

quaker state is NOT AS BAD, but STILL leaves "cornflakes" to clog oil passages.

ANOTHER new phenomena OIL FILTERS are NOW "SHEDDING" and ruining engines as well..look up GM's TSB #10-06-01-003A...the filter pictured happens to be a wix

 

[sw03]

sorry to bring this up in 2012, but I have documented PROOF that valvoline STILL has dangerous amounts of parrafin. And NOW that engines are not turning cooling fans on until 227*F, the parrafin is MAKING IT INTO THE OIL PAN, re-solidifying, AND stopping the oil pickup tubes up. Had an 05 sedona DOHC v-6 recently, changed his oil RELIGIOUSLY every 3k miles, oil light flickered once, instant oil change said " you NEED to change it every 1500k miles...came to me on a hook. Long story short, pickup tube clogged with valvosluge, starved the OHC's for lube...end of engine.

quaker state is NOT AS BAD, but STILL leaves "cornflakes" to clog oil passages.

ANOTHER new phenomena OIL FILTERS are NOW "SHEDDING" and ruining engines as well..look up GM's TSB #10-06-01-003A...the filter pictured happens to be a wix

API ratings are great, if you trust them. I use a non API in my engines and works well.

But I do agree some apro approved oil turn to $$^% quickly...

 

[Mace Canute]

Umm, there is nothing in my manuals that states I MUST following anything per their REQUIREMENTS". All they states is what they "recommend"? Based on FOS, MTBF you are fine. Never had a manual state any "requirements" in oil or fluids. Most it says is I must change spark plugs due to emission standards. Even that is a huge grey line. Again, based on design factors it is total fluff.

The dealer will not trust you even if you had the receipts from some oil you bought. Prove you installed it etc. I have been though this debate 100000 times. The only true way to do it is a UOA. Then it is case closed. I know many major manufactures that trust only this. I also know that certain manufactures on stating to drain according to UOA and not hours/miles too.

Sorry I only have been doing extended drain about 16 years and have yet to have issue with anything longer drain related. I would not have issues of getting 50 more feet out of my oil. Based on UOA and many baselines I have completed, not even an issue.

Seems your Honda dealer MIGHT be taking you for a ride (based on you might have this that). Honda does not make filters. Of course Honda states that since they are putting the blame on that; Easy way out. Most Honda, Toyota oil filters are worse then Walmart in design. Sounds like you have a filter issue or installation issue (if due to filter).

To close if you think getting UOA are used for getting another "50 feet" out of the present oil too" you are missing the main objective. I used UOA to tell me the engine condition and the oil longevity is a bonus. I want the best performace vs budget. So sorry I see what goes into manuals for trucks and I will trust UOA and not a manual that "recommends" everything and anything (not requires) for $$$$.

But do what makes you fell good. CHEERS

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[John Morgan]

The current API ratings are SN and CJ4. ILSAC rating is GF5. The ISO 9001:2000 is a manufacturing certification having to do with quality control. Amsoil is an excellent oil and a worthy competitor. They have 10 viscosities rated SN. Only the full synthetic 5w40 DEO is CJ4 rated. Check for yourself at Home. API certifications meet minimum specifications for certain testing criteria, nothing more. As long as you use an oil that meets the minimum for that particular model, it is illegal for them to refuse to honor the warranty. That doesn't mean they may not try, it means they won't win a challenge if they do.