Aquiline Talon chains

[whistlepig]

My Aquiline Talon tire chains finally came today. Out of the box I was very impressed. These are some super heavy duty chains. Much heavier than I imagined them to be. I've only seen them in pictures. The pictures don't do them justice.

 

[crazyal]

They also make what they call a square link (I think that's what they called it) that doesn't have the spikes. They say it's much better for driving across cement and blacktop. But they are just so expensive it's hard to justify either set. Good news is now that you have them they'll never fall in between the lugs and they'll most likely last a lifetime.

How much clearance do they need? My 4240 with Ag tires only has about 2 1/2 inches between the fender and top of the tire.

 

[whistlepig]

I jacked up the tractor and put one chain on today. It's a chore for a rookie like me who has never put on tractor tire chains. No directions came with the chains. Took me a couple of hours on one chain and I'm not done yet. I did order the spring tensioners from tirechains.com tonight. I have 2 1/2" of side clearance also on my R4's. The side clearance looks not to be problem with these chains on my tractor. Getting these chains wiggled around to get the "H" pattern straight and getting some of the sag out will be my project in the morning. I'm not going to put the chains full time on until mid-November. Just working the bugs out now. These Aquiline studded chains are the "Norse" style chains. Any suggestions for mounting and adjustment would be more than appreciated.

 

[crazyal]

Tire chains are fun, lol. I've done it two ways. I've driven over the chain and stopped just past half way then taken the longer end and wrapped it over the tire and then lifted the other end up connecting the back side then trying to get the front as tight as possible. Usually after a few rotations the chain loosens itself up and you can tighten it up a little more.

On my dump truck I have a tool that clamps onto the tandom tires. It's flat in the center and has a place to hook the chain on. You simply drive forward (or reverse) and it pulls the chain on. You can read more here:

Chain-Up Tool

I wouldn't think the concept would be too hard to adapt to a single tire.

 

[simonmeridew]

Hi Whistle
Lay the chains spike down, neatly and evenly behind the tire, tie a short piece of rope to one side end chain link, then tie the other end of the rope to the side chain end link on the other side, leaving a foot or so slack.

then pull the rope big loop over one of the lugs on the tire, drive the tractor slowly forward, trying to lay the chain out evenly on inner and outer. This will pull the chain up and over as you drive. Don't worry about the inner diamond cross link chains yet.

keep driving forward until the chain is all the way under the tire and even out a foot or so out back. By this time the free end should be up on the tire a foot or so.

then untie the rope and attach the inner, then the outer side chains, relatively tightly, then it's time to do the diamond cross chains. Because the chains are sold to fit various tire sizes you will probably find that you will need to cut off some links to make for a nice neat job. Those cross links are heat treated and very hard...a hack saw will take all day...I used a carborundum cutoff disc. Careful you don't cut into the tire, or mark them with chauk and take the chains off and cut them in a vice. The point is do it right once and every year you put them on it'll get easier.

My chains came with a kind of twisted dogbone(for lack of a better term) connector but I found these worked their way unhooked and off, so I replaced them with some screw links I bought at the hardware store. They work fine. Coat all threads with neverseize.

Hope this helps

simonmeridew

 

[simonmeridew]

here's a couple of pics of my chains on the kubota
simonmeridew

 

[whistlepig]

Hi Whistle
Lay the chains spike down, neatly and evenly behind the tire, tie a short piece of rope to one side end chain link, then tie the other end of the rope to the side chain end link on the other side, leaving a foot or so slack.

then pull the rope big loop over one of the lugs on the tire, drive the tractor slowly forward, trying to lay the chain out evenly on inner and outer. This will pull the chain up and over as you drive. Don't worry about the inner diamond cross link chains yet.

keep driving forward until the chain is all the way under the tire and even out a foot or so out back. By this time the free end should be up on the tire a foot or so.

then untie the rope and attach the inner, then the outer side chains, relatively tightly, then it's time to do the diamond cross chains. Because the chains are sold to fit various tire sizes you will probably find that you will need to cut off some links to make for a nice neat job. Those cross links are heat treated and very hard...a hack saw will take all day...I used a carborundum cutoff disc. Careful you don't cut into the tire, or mark them with chauk and take the chains off and cut them in a vice. The point is do it right once and every year you put them on it'll get easier.

My chains came with a kind of twisted dogbone(for lack of a better term) connector but I found these worked their way unhooked and off, so I replaced them with some screw links I bought at the hardware store. They work fine. Coat all threads with neverseize.

Hope this helps

simonmeridew

I started this project last night in a poorly lit garage. When the sun came up today things were easier to see. Leaving the cross chains until last is an important step. I can lift these chains on the tire OK. About 80 pounds each. It was just that I didn't know what I was doing until I got there. Once I got the chain on straight, even, and tight I marked the links where the boom connector should be. Then, as you suggested, I marked the "tails" where the cross links and boom connectors hook up and cut off the excess chain with a cut-off wheel. This does make for a tidy and neat job. After this I tried mounting the chain the second time. Three hours to mount the chain the first try and 45 minutes to mount the chain on the second try. This chain is mounted really tight. No slap or chain noise at all. I did order the chain tensioner kit form tirechains.com but I really don't think these chains need it. Thanks for the help from everyone. The advice, and especially the pictures, made things a whole lot easier for me.

 

[Chilly807]

I'll dig out the instructions that came with my Norse chains and scan them or take a digital pic of them, and PM them to you. You might be surprised at how loose they recommend running this type of chain.

According to Tellefsdal (Norse), you should be able to get a clenched fist under the side chains without too much trouble, and the installed chain should "travel" around the tire 30-50 cm for every km you drive. I installed mine as they recommend, and had zero problems last winter. Great gripping chain, by the way...

All I used was the "boomers" that came with them, no springs, bungees, etc.

Sean

 

[whistlepig]

I'll dig out the instructions that came with my Norse chains and scan them or take a digital pic of them, and PM them to you. You might be surprised at how loose they recommend running this type of chain.

According to Tellefsdal (Norse), you should be able to get a clenched fist under the side chains without too much trouble, and the installed chain should "travel" around the tire 30-50 cm for every km you drive. I installed mine as they recommend, and had zero problems last winter. Great gripping chain, by the way...

All I used was the "boomers" that came with them, no springs, bungees, etc.

Sean

I would appreciate seeing these instructions very much. I'm afraid to leave too much clearance in the chain. I only have 3/4" between the fender and the chain. These are one mean looking set of chains. The "H" pattern makes them ride good. I have been in and out of the garage twice with these chains and they are already chewing the concrete floor. I have some rubber horse mats I'm going to put down to park it on in the garage.

 

[Chilly807]

I sent you a PM, Dave... for anyone else that would like to see them, here is the link to the Tellefsdal instruction page for my chains, which they list as "Super Tractor". The translation from Norwegian to English is interesting in places.

http://www.tellefsdal.no/Montering/Super%208-9,5%20mm.pdf

I had to click the reload button to get the page to load properly, it may just be me that has the problem though.

Mine slapped the fenders a bit at first, the problem was that I had too much slack in the cross-chain joiners, the side chains weren't the problem. Once I got that right they were as quiet as a mouse. Well... ok, they were as quiet as 80 pounds of chain mounted to an AG tire can be

Incidentally, if the wife has any tendency to run over your foot with the tractor, hide the keys as long as the chains are on...

Sean

 

[whistlepig]

I sent you a PM, Dave... for anyone else that would like to see them, here is the link to the Tellefsdal instruction page for my chains, which they list as "Super Tractor". The translation from Norwegian to English is interesting in places.

http://www.tellefsdal.no/Montering/Super%208-9,5%20mm.pdf

I had to click the reload button to get the page to load properly, it may just be me that has the problem though.

Mine slapped the fenders a bit at first, the problem was that I had too much slack in the cross-chain joiners, the side chains weren't the problem. Once I got that right they were as quiet as a mouse. Well... ok, they were as quiet as 80 pounds of chain mounted to an AG tire can be

Incidentally, if the wife has any tendency to run over your foot with the tractor, hide the keys as long as the chains are on...

Sean

Got your PM. Thank you very much. Your Tellefsdal (Norse) chains are identical to my Aquiline Talons. It's an important heads up for tire wear due to chain tightness. I am going to watch my tires for chain damage thanks to your recommendation. If something is going to give for sure it's not going to be these chains. These chains are so heavy and aggressive I can see the rubber in the tire giving up before the studs in the chain. There is a very real possibility of these chains chewing the tires.

 

[simonmeridew]

whistle
I tried the chains loose like my instructions said, on my Kubota, for I think 2 years and they slapped the fenders occasionally like chilly said. Then I tightened them up like we do regular tire chains in Vermont and they worked better. BTW, I've never had to put on those bungee tighteners on my Norse chains.

I have the double ring chains for 25 years on my 8N Ford. I've had to put on the bungee tighteners on every year. Otherwise they "walk off the tire", not just "around the tire". That's not a lot of fun digging the tractor out of 6 inches of mud under 2 feet of snow up in the woods, then putting the chain back on. But these are the double ring chains, not the Norse ones, which are superior

simonmeridew

 

[whistlepig]

whistle
I tried the chains loose like my instructions said, on my Kubota, for I think 2 years and they slapped the fenders occasionally like chilly said. Then I tightened them up like we do regular tire chains in Vermont and they worked better. BTW, I've never had to put on those bungee tighteners on my Norse chains.

I have the double ring chains for 25 years on my 8N Ford. I've had to put on the bungee tighteners on every year. Otherwise they "walk off the tire", not just "around the tire". That's not a lot of fun digging the tractor out of 6 inches of mud under 2 feet of snow up in the woods, then putting the chain back on. But these are the double ring chains, not the Norse ones, which are superior

simonmeridew

For sure, between you and chilly, you have got me fine tuned in on these chains and what to watch out for. This is priceless information for me to know now and not learn when the snow comes. These chains look like they have a tendency to "walk". If the chains "walk" the studs will not be centered on the tire. Mounted tightly I drove around the yard for an hour today and these chains didn't "walk" or didn't loosen. But I see chilly's point also. That these chains are so aggressive that the tires should be closely watched. These Norse chains are extremely well made. Once fit up is made there is virtually no give or loosening to these chains. I see no need for chain tensioners. These chains are not for asphalt or concrete drives. They will chew asphalt and concrete up. But for my 900' of gravel drive and clearing snow around a soupy barn lot they seem perfect for me.