Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp?

   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #61  
Moss, You sure know where to insert the knife and when to twist it! ;) ;)

Everything is tradeoffs. Mine was cab or hoe, take your pick.

I have been told Kubota has 3PH hoes for my tractor but I was more inclined toward a towable unit built from plans or a kit. They crawl around on the site like a crab. No matter which I would choose there will always be a time when another choice would have been better. Yoiu pays your money and takes your chances. I have few or no plans for taking the hoe off my place often or at all. It is not even a particular necessity but a nice to have.

Thanks for the ref.

Pat
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #62  
Eeegads, yet another complication in my decision!

A gently used U35 excavator with 650 hours just came on the market locally. It has a cab, heat, rubber tracks and a hydraulic thumb for $31.5k

I didn't want a cab because much of my work will be in the forest where the glass would be endangered by limbs, etc...but with a zero tail swing machine, if the tracks were wide enough to fit between two trees the cab would be safe.

And the price is very attractive...

Pete
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #63  
Boondox, Sounds good. I would mention that some trees have limbs growing out of them above the height of the tracks so you still need to pay attention.

Pat
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #64  
Just came across this old thread and read every post. I'm really surprised no one else mentioned the two reasons I wanted/needed a cab. :confused:

All I have to do is ride by a field with goldenrod or ragweed or . . . . name any one of a hundred other similar plants that are the spawn of Satan, and I sneeze my fool head off. It's called allergies, and judging from the enormous number of commercials for all manner of allergy medicines, I'm not the only sufferer. Mowing from inside a cab is not a luxury, it's an absolute necessity.

And, there are lots of times I can do a couple of hours of mowing in 90-degree weather, jump out of the cab and go to a meeting or out to eat and not smell like a wet goat. ;)

If you're some of the fortunate ones who can operate an open-station tractor without half-dying, then go ahead. Some of us just don't have that option. :rolleyes:
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #65  
BotaDude, I think I have previously got pretty close to your cab benefit. Spraying ag chemicals in an open tractor is an accident waiting to happen. The vagaries of the wind are such that at times it is impossible to predict then a slight variation will put you in your own chemical plume.

I can remember to make all turns while spraying such that I am upwind of the mist/spray but that assumes the wind is constant in direction. That may be an appropriate assumption in some locals but certainly not around these parts.

I know there is a constant undercurrent on this site against safety measures (search on "hand wringing") but if you look at the unvarnished truth as represented in insurance mortality tables, US Dept of Ag or other sources you'll find the effects of chemical exposure are directly connected to cancer rates in the ag industry. You don't spray one day and die the next so it takes just a little bit of intelligence to connect the dots.

I'm just spraying a little xxx and I'll be careful. It isn't convenient to wear rubber gloves to mix the stuff, it isn't convenient to change clothes every time I spill the stuff on me...

Less exposure is better. If you spray ag chemicals you are considerably safer if you have a cab in addition to all your other safety measures and strategies.

Pat
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #66  
I could have used a cab a couple weeks ago when I was mowing some thick weeds and bumped into a HUGE bee hive! I was probably stung 30 times and had to abandon the tractor and the bees laid claim to it for about 2 hours before I was able to retrieve it.

patrick_g said:
Oh by the way, I don't know how much power is lost to the hydrostat in tractors of 30 HP and under but my 39.5 HP HST is only rated at 40 HP with standard gear box. I doubt anyone would notice the difference in performance or fuel consumption.

Pat, I think you have something mixed up on your HST numbers with your tractor. When I was shopping the HST took about 2 or 3 hp away from the PTO hp on the kubota XX30 models vs. the GST or manual shift models. It was more than 1/2 hp for sure.
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #67  
Most cab models total height are lower than ROP models.
I've enjoyed the comfort level, that a Cab provides, that I traded my Gator for an RTV 1100 Cab. Another reason I speak highly about cabs...I don't get along with snakes....and the cab gives me just a little more protection.
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #68  
npaden said:
Pat, I think you have something mixed up on your HST numbers with your tractor. When I was shopping the HST took about 2 or 3 hp away from the PTO hp on the kubota XX30 models vs. the GST or manual shift models. It was more than 1/2 hp for sure.

Sorry to here of your run in with the KILLER BEES. As regards the HST HP loss...

I have a Grand L4610HSTC it is about 6 years old. I bought it new. I have not had it on a dyno. I quoted some Kubota literature. I believe I quoted the literature accurately but can't account for their accuracy. If it were really important I could try to find it (or similar reference) but I don't think Kubota will pay for the effort. As I recall it was a full color brochure with more than one model depicted.

Pat
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #69  
patrick_g said:
Sorry to here of your run in with the KILLER BEES.
Pat

Actually after talking with a guy who does bee keeping as a hobby these are just regular honey bees. If they were killer or africanized bees there is a chance that I would not be here now based on my discussions with him. I ended up running about 100 yards away from the tractor and they left me alone after I ran off that far. If they had been africanized bees they would have more than likely followed me as far as 1/4 mile and possibly farther. At the time I didn't even think about running for my pond about 1/4 mile away but if they had been africanized bees then that might have been the only thing that would have saved me.

I'm going to let the bees stay until spring and then the bee keeper wants to come and vaccum them up and put them in one of his bee boxes. I came REALLY close to burning down the pile of wood that they are using for a hive but didn't.
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #70  
patrick_g said:
Less exposure is better. If you spray ag chemicals you are considerably safer if you have a cab in addition to all your other safety measures and strategies.

Pat

Preach on, brother, preach on.

Bees (garden variety or otherwise), yellow jackets, hornets, even fire ants (yes, I know they don't fly under their own power, but they do when I hit a mound and the mower blades throw 'em in the air!), snakes . . . it's best to keep as much distance between them and you as possible. Failing that, be inside a cab. If that makes me a girlie man, get me some more nail polish.
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #71  
npaden said:
Actually after talking with a guy who does bee keeping as a hobby these are just regular honey bees. If they were killer or africanized bees there is a chance that I would not be here now based on my discussions with him. I ended up running about 100 yards away from the tractor and they left me alone after I ran off that far. If they had been africanized bees they would have more than likely followed me as far as 1/4 mile and possibly farther. At the time I didn't even think about running for my pond about 1/4 mile away but if they had been africanized bees then that might have been the only thing that would have saved me.

I'm going to let the bees stay until spring and then the bee keeper wants to come and vaccum them up and put them in one of his bee boxes. I came REALLY close to burning down the pile of wood that they are using for a hive but didn't.

Of course I was only kidding about the KILLER BEES.

B U T IF they were killer bees the pond could have been an interesting refuge as there are documented cases of folks jumping in the water to escape killer bees. The bees waited for a LOOOOOONG time and attacked every time the victims came up for air. It could concentrate the stings around your nose and mouth if you handled yourself appropriately, preventing stings on other parts of your body.

Now I guess we have to carry a snorkel with a bee filter on it!

Pat
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #72  
Double Orange said:
Most cab models total height are lower than ROP models.
I've enjoyed the comfort level, that a Cab provides, that I traded my Gator for an RTV 1100 Cab. Another reason I speak highly about cabs...I don't get along with snakes....and the cab gives me just a little more protection.

Yeah...but I can flop my ROPS when operating in the trees (on dead flat ground) and going into one of my barns (extremely low overhead)...how do you flop a cab??....:D

The real reason I'm an open station guy is that JDs don't support backhoes with cabs on...:D
The secondary reason is that it is easier for me during hay season to manage baling operations...
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #73  
PaulChristenson said:
Yeah...but I can flop my ROPS when operating in the trees (on dead flat ground) and going into one of my barns (extremely low overhead)...how do you flop a cab??....

I think you answered your own question, almost. You can flop your cab by driving under low trees or through a low overhead clearance doorway. The problem is unflopping it.

My solution was to make my tractor-building entry points taller than the cab. As far as the trees go, ROPS or cab, I prefer to trim all the lower branches off to a height of about 10 ft or a little more, depending. I may allow a "NICE" branch at 8 ft. Low branches get in the way of haying, brush hogging, parking in the shade and reduce the view, shade and kill grass, and look unkempt (personal pref.)

Cab style ROPS vs Rollbar style ROPS is not ever going to be a valid which is better choice without qualification. Either is the BEST solution for some things. Both have tradeoffs, their plusses and minuses, and neither is the BEST for all tasks and personal preferences. Not everyone buys a convertible. That doesn't mean they don't have a place. Sedan vs coupe, which is better 2 doors, 4 doors, hatchback or trunk. They all have good and bad points. (Oh, a chicken coup has only 2 doors, otherwise it would be a sedan!)

If my tractor was essentially a lawn mower and I didn't make much dust, spray dangerous chemicals, or work in inclement weather, I'd see little justification for a cab. Some tasks can be postponed (called on account of rain, snow, or whatever) but if you have a heard of Angus or some brood mares or whatever depending on you then you have to go out in all sorts of weather to meet your obligations.

I have friends and neighbors who usually discharge their responsibilities to their stock with great dependability in all sorts of weather without cab tractors (with associated personal sacrifice such as getting wet, cold etc.) but that isn't my first choice. Some folks claim getting in and out of a cab a lot is a hassle of much grater magnitude than the effort without a cab. Could be in some cabs but not mine. I get in and out with great ease, no harder than the open rigs I've run.

What is the answer to the question: "What is the best tool?"

It depends. Don't we need to know a few things? What tools is the user proficient with, what tools are available, what tools can be afforded, what tools are a fair fit to the job, and on and on.

To a man who only has a hammer, every job looks like a nail!

So far as ever settling the "which is best, cab or open" question, the only good answer is, "It depends."

Versatility matters. I can drive a screw with a hammer but it is tough to drive a nail with a screw driver.

I can do most tasks with a cab on a tractor, although backhoe requires a bit more fuss. I can't drive my tractor through a low overhead door built for cars, or for that matter through a 3-0 front door, down the hall and into a spare bedroom either.

Everyone has to make their own choice based on usage, their budget, and personal prefs. If cars only came in one color per brand would you pick your car by color pref or other features irrespective of the color of that brand?

If you bought only convertibles you could save money on garage doors and drive under trees easier. If you really don't mind being out in the elements you don't need to put the top up or use the heater. Of course the hatchback might be a hassle when mounting a backhoe but it might be easier with a trunk. ;) ;)
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #74  
patrick_g said:
I think you answered your own question, almost. You can flop your cab by driving under low trees or through a low overhead clearance doorway. The problem is unflopping it.

My solution was to make my tractor-building entry points taller than the cab. As far as the trees go, ROPS or cab, I prefer to trim all the lower branches off to a height of about 10 ft or a little more, depending. I may allow a "NICE" branch at 8 ft. Low branches get in the way of haying, brush hogging, parking in the shade and reduce the view, shade and kill grass, and look unkempt (personal pref.)

Cab style ROPS vs Rollbar style ROPS is not ever going to be a valid which is better choice without qualification. Either is the BEST solution for some things. Both have tradeoffs, their plusses and minuses, and neither is the BEST for all tasks and personal preferences. Not everyone buys a convertible. That doesn't mean they don't have a place. Sedan vs coupe, which is better 2 doors, 4 doors, hatchback or trunk. They all have good and bad points. (Oh, a chicken coup has only 2 doors, otherwise it would be a sedan!)

If my tractor was essentially a lawn mower and I didn't make much dust, spray dangerous chemicals, or work in inclement weather, I'd see little justification for a cab. Some tasks can be postponed (called on account of rain, snow, or whatever) but if you have a heard of Angus or some brood mares or whatever depending on you then you have to go out in all sorts of weather to meet your obligations.

I have friends and neighbors who usually discharge their responsibilities to their stock with great dependability in all sorts of weather without cab tractors (with associated personal sacrifice such as getting wet, cold etc.) but that isn't my first choice. Some folks claim getting in and out of a cab a lot is a hassle of much grater magnitude than the effort without a cab. Could be in some cabs but not mine. I get in and out with great ease, no harder than the open rigs I've run.

What is the answer to the question: "What is the best tool?"

It depends. Don't we need to know a few things? What tools is the user proficient with, what tools are available, what tools can be afforded, what tools are a fair fit to the job, and on and on.

To a man who only has a hammer, every job looks like a nail!

So far as ever settling the "which is best, cab or open" question, the only good answer is, "It depends."

Versatility matters. I can drive a screw with a hammer but it is tough to drive a nail with a screw driver.

I can do most tasks with a cab on a tractor, although backhoe requires a bit more fuss. I can't drive my tractor through a low overhead door built for cars, or for that matter through a 3-0 front door, down the hall and into a spare bedroom either.

Everyone has to make their own choice based on usage, their budget, and personal prefs. If cars only came in one color per brand would you pick your car by color pref or other features irrespective of the color of that brand?

If you bought only convertibles you could save money on garage doors and drive under trees easier. If you really don't mind being out in the elements you don't need to put the top up or use the heater. Of course the hatchback might be a hassle when mounting a backhoe but it might be easier with a trunk. ;) ;)

That is why I have a sports car that is a convertible. A 4 door sedan for more than two people trips, a 4 door truck for more than two people working conditions, and a 2 door suv for getting around in bad weather. I love versatility.

Pat is that why you have multiple mitre saws ?
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #75  
Patrick....I was talking about orchard trees...you know Apples, Plums...:D
Every limb you cut there is potential money...:D

The barn I have to go into is where the horses are...I pull the manure spreader in when cleaning the stalls

As to driving screws with a hammer...or driving into your home...see the following...:D
A List Of Fallacious Arguments
 
Last edited:
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #76  
Paul C. Wrong list my friend. Need to refer to humor not logic error. I don't know why but emoticons DO NOT WORK FOR ME, I try but they don't appear and I haven't found the cause. I need to sprinkle in some ;) ;) (home brew emoticons) more often maybe so you know I'm not really on your case, which I'm not! The spare bedroom comment was intended to illustrate that if you want to store a tractor, a tractor sized storage space is a good thing. It isn't always practical and making do with a garage or short shed if you have the "advantage" of a folding ROPS is certainly making the best of what you have.

+++++++++++++++++++++++
This is an after the fact edit. The emoticons above were inserted by the software when I typed in semicolon-right parentheses. Maybe IF I knew the "secret codes" I coiuld use other ones,too.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I allow as to how your orchard comment (previously unrealized by me) is a perfect case for folding ROPS (except for SOCAL avocado orchards which are often on STEEP hills.) Not much orchard work in really bad weather is there? Still, the spraying I have seen in orchards would require me to have a cab or a "moon" suit.

Preexisting buildings are yet another reason. My preexisting buildings all had good clearance and when I built more I allowed for tractor entry. I assert that easy entry is a good thing, but not mandatory. Of course I was joking about some of the stuff and don't expect folks to install cheaper shorter garage doors that only admit a convertible with the top down.

My pear trees are about 100 years old and are trimmed to my specs or maybe a tad less. I have one apple tree about 5 ft tall and I don't try to drive under its limbs.

gemini5362

Definitely buddy, versatility is why I have 3 electric miter saws for wood and 2 for steel. I didn't start out to collect miter saws but shortly after I bought a Milwaukee miter saw with 60% off at a business closure I found that I should have waited and got a compound slide type. I spent 2 years looking for a bargain and finally got a compound slide 12 inch. Number three is an old B&D I got used for $25 and is just too convenient and portable to eliminate even though it is just a straight cut with no tilt.

I have 3 each 4x4 pickups too. An '89 Dakota with standard cab and long bed, a '97 Dodge-Cumins (2 door with back seat) 3500 with service body, and a '08 F-250 Super duty diesel crew cab with short bed. I use them all and each has features I don't want to lose but soon the Dakota should go as the 2008 F-250 was bought to replace it as a ranch truck. Hard to do to a new truck what I do with the Dakota but that is an emotional thing and I will get used to it.

I do like versatility. I am looking forward to enjoying the versatility of the dump trailer I bought yesterday. I expect it do do things that my HD car hauler/util trailer can't do very well at all. It has a versatile multi-function tailgate, internal and external D-ring tie downs rows of little tie downs for a tarp and on and on. Did I mention it is versatile? Versatile is good, usually.

Pat ;) ;)
 
Last edited:
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #77  
In addition to the protection of year round elements & lawn chemicals, i also get the benefit of protection from bees. I have worked in the green industry going on 31 years and unfortunatley im allergic to bees! When i get stung i have to drop my pants & inject myself with an eppi-pen! Its a real ugly thing to see, the drugs effect is almost instantaneous and the shakes it causes, well you have to see it to believe it! Love my cab!
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #78  
lawn_king said:
im allergic to bees! When i get stung i have to drop my pants & inject myself with an eppi-pen! Its a real ugly thing to see, the drugs effect is almost instantaneous and the shakes it causes, well you have to see it to believe it! Love my cab!

My wife and I keep eppi-pens at home for just in case but were told you could just jab yourself right through your clothes.

Luckily we haven't needed to use one yet.

Now there is a STRONG argument for a cab!!!

Pat
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #79  
I keep an eppi-pen in all 3 trucks, just in case!
 
   / Are cabs useful under say 30-35 hp? #80  
patrick_g said:
Paul C. Wrong list my friend. Need to refer to humor not logic error. I don't know why but emoticons DO NOT WORK FOR ME, I try but they don't appear and I haven't found the cause. I need to sprinkle in some ;) ;) (home brew emoticons) more often maybe so you know I'm not really on your case, which I'm not! The spare bedroom comment was intended to illustrate that if you want to store a tractor, a tractor sized storage space is a good thing. It isn't always practical and making do with a garage or short shed if you have the "advantage" of a folding ROPS is certainly making the best of what you have.

+++++++++++++++++++++++
This is an after the fact edit. The emoticons above were inserted by the software when I typed in semicolon-right parentheses. Maybe IF I knew the "secret codes" I coiuld use other ones,too.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I allow as to how your orchard comment (previously unrealized by me) is a perfect case for folding ROPS (except for SOCAL avocado orchards which are often on STEEP hills.) Not much orchard work in really bad weather is there? Still, the spraying I have seen in orchards would require me to have a cab or a "moon" suit.

Preexisting buildings are yet another reason. My preexisting buildings all had good clearance and when I built more I allowed for tractor entry. I assert that easy entry is a good thing, but not mandatory. Of course I was joking about some of the stuff and don't expect folks to install cheaper shorter garage doors that only admit a convertible with the top down.

My pear trees are about 100 years old and are trimmed to my specs or maybe a tad less. I have one apple tree about 5 ft tall and I don't try to drive under its limbs.

gemini5362

Definitely buddy, versatility is why I have 3 electric miter saws for wood and 2 for steel. I didn't start out to collect miter saws but shortly after I bought a Milwaukee miter saw with 60% off at a business closure I found that I should have waited and got a compound slide type. I spent 2 years looking for a bargain and finally got a compound slide 12 inch. Number three is an old B&D I got used for $25 and is just too convenient and portable to eliminate even though it is just a straight cut with no tilt.

I have 3 each 4x4 pickups too. An '89 Dakota with standard cab and long bed, a '97 Dodge-Cumins (2 door with back seat) 3500 with service body, and a '08 F-250 Super duty diesel crew cab with short bed. I use them all and each has features I don't want to lose but soon the Dakota should go as the 2008 F-250 was bought to replace it as a ranch truck. Hard to do to a new truck what I do with the Dakota but that is an emotional thing and I will get used to it.

I do like versatility. I am looking forward to enjoying the versatility of the dump trailer I bought yesterday. I expect it do do things that my HD car hauler/util trailer can't do very well at all. It has a versatile multi-function tailgate, internal and external D-ring tie downs rows of little tie downs for a tarp and on and on. Did I mention it is versatile? Versatile is good, usually.

Pat ;) ;)

Sent you a PM with the basics emoticons on this site...:D

Next time I'll just use my John Wayne Impression...

SMILE WHEN YOU SAY THAT STRANGER...:D

On pre-existing buildings...one of my barn sections is supposed to be 1850's era...my former cow barn was a 1900's unit with 2 refurbs...and because we are in VT, it has a LOW ceiling so it stays some what cool in the Winter rather than downright frigid...:D
 

Marketplace Items

2008 CATERPILLAR 420E BACKHOE (A59823)
2008 CATERPILLAR...
2020 Ram Promaster City 1500 Cargo Van (A59230)
2020 Ram Promaster...
ARROW BOARD (A60429)
ARROW BOARD (A60429)
Freightliner Columbia (A61306)
Freightliner...
2021 CATERPILLAR 306 CR EXCAVATOR (A60429)
2021 CATERPILLAR...
2380 (A60432)
2380 (A60432)
 
Top