/pine
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Good point..
I would consider just giving it a shot of a something like this Black Liquid Spray Tape if salt or fertilizer etc may get to it...
Are stainess and carbon steel "dissimilar metals" re: electrolysis?
- Thread starter sixdogs
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I would consider just giving it a shot of a something like this Black Liquid Spray Tape if salt or fertilizer etc may get to it...
the old grind
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Mis-communication there, or do I deserve a spanking? OP did ask about 'electrolysis' (galvanic corrosion) and though there would be little/none to fear we did go a bit beyond that somewhere between the title & my un-welcomed four letter word.
My own concern was about environmental effects in general on carbon steel. If we avoid the r-word it can still 'corrode' in high humidity. That's all I was getting at.
(CS will work fine, but should SS screws be avoided?)I'm sure the OP can see between our apples & oranges. What we might be discussing is whether using Loc-Tite with either screw material means he wouldn't need/want a lock-nut.
btw: I agree a 'liquid tape' could seal it all up. It comes in colors & brush-in-can as well as the spray, but I wouldn't use it without Loc-Tite, and might not want it in a tiny set screw hole under the dashboard (1/8" for a 3/16" set screw?) if it would ever be disassembled. (I didn't hear welding as an option.
)http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...lectrical-Tape-LTB-400/100119178#.UahFW9jiERI
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OP
sixdogs
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I'm the OP and my need comes from the fact that I had to disassemble my steering shaft after three years of carbon steel set screws into a stainless u joint (inside the cabin) and they wouldn't come apart. They were all gunked with dissimilar reaction "gunk". The set screw broke off and I tried to drill upside down and backwards. Broke the drill off and went downhill from there. Don't want to do that again.
Car only sees perfect days outside and will never even be wet. My best choice now seems to be using Loctite 222 or 242 and that will become a thread sealer. I'm a little afraid of 242 since I might not be able to get it apart if need be. Over the years I have often used women's clear nail polish as a sealer and it worked fine to keep small screws from vibrating loose. What should I use---- 222 or 242 or even nail polish?
All the comments are appreciated and very helpful.
Car only sees perfect days outside and will never even be wet. My best choice now seems to be using Loctite 222 or 242 and that will become a thread sealer. I'm a little afraid of 242 since I might not be able to get it apart if need be. Over the years I have often used women's clear nail polish as a sealer and it worked fine to keep small screws from vibrating loose. What should I use---- 222 or 242 or even nail polish?
All the comments are appreciated and very helpful.
Mickey_Fx
Veteran Member
I'd go with the 242,its fine for the size fasteners you mentioned. The 222 is for small fasteners like #10 or smaller. What you don't want to use is 271, you will not get the fastener out if you use this formula. I've seen fasteners in the 3/8" range that simply twist a bolt in to when secured with 271.
That's helpful, it makes it clear there is galvanic action going on. Sailors I know claim that some of the teflon based products are better for anti corrosion than antisieze, and are much less messy than antisieze. Lanocote seems to be popular. They don't use loctite for those applications but I don't know why.
Note that SS and carbon steel are very close galvanically, so while they are active, it's not like mixing some of the really noble materials with carbon steel. Another point is that once carbon steel becomes active by corroding, it is more galvanically coupled to passive carbon steel than non-corroded carbon steel is to SS. So for example, if your set screw and U-joint were carbon steel, and the U-Joint began to corrode because it's spinning and gets more exposure to road grit, that corroded material would be more reactive with the non-corroded set screw than it would if it were SS.
the old grind
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BeezFun, thanks for the clarification!
Whether even storage or seasonal humidity is the 'culprit in the cockpit', getting seized set-screws out of SS won't be easy and risks trashing/replacing the u-joint. ($100-$200) :mur:
How can we tackle the task as a team??
Whether even storage or seasonal humidity is the 'culprit in the cockpit', getting seized set-screws out of SS won't be easy and risks trashing/replacing the u-joint. ($100-$200) :mur:
How can we tackle the task as a team??
Loctite data sheet indicates 242 is designed for less active materials like stainless steel, that seems like the right choice. No such claim is made for 222.
Danno1
Veteran Member
~3/16 sounds like it would be a 10-24 or a 10-32. Probably a 10-32.
I would use the 222. Also, although I like to use SS h'ware for a lot of things, I might consider the alloy steel in this case to help avoid stripping out the hex when you need to remove it. A small dab of chassis grease on the exposed part and inside the hex after installation will keep it from rusting. Or I guess you could coat the exposed part w nail polish.
I agree with the don't use anti-seize in this application.
If you don't want to mar the shaft, order the conformable tip set-screws:
McMaster-Carr
.
kevin37b
Veteran Member
Is this a keyed saft , square , hex . The corrosion wont happen till mother moisture shows up . Rotate it up , put a drop of SG on it and be done . You girls worry to much .
