At Home In The Woods

[brin]

Pops, yes that's the type of trusses we ordered. In fact they arrived today. Here they are on the delivery truck.

Obed

Obed - When we built our house 5 yrs. ago we used the floor joists that have plywood sandwiched between two two by fours and we have 3/4 " hardwood floors installed on to of 3/4 " Advantech sub floor and have no squeaks at all after 5 yrs..so far fingers crossed and we have no bounce to our floors all very solid. I attached a picture..they Advantech sub floor was glued and screwed.

 

[jake98]

I'm not a fan of glue. Use it when I have to but I like the old 5/8 cdx and underlayment method. Shoot it down with ring shank nails. Most of my work is in additions and remodels these days. I think the glue and screw came about by bean counters not wanting to use an underlayment. Tract houses, and spec homes, I can't argue with it.

Every time I use it, I get it on my hoses, my T square, and then if somebody doesn't break their neck when they step in it, they track it across the owner's kitchen.

Different floor finishes need different underlays. I do tile a lot and like thin-set mortar on fir underlayment for kitchens and general living areas, 1/2" notched trowel mortar bed for cementious board underlay in bathroom areas with no nails.

No squeeks with ring shanks.

 

[harpoonalt]

Where the heck did you get that nailing schedule?

I had never done hardwood floors before. The builders "helper" was there when I showed up for my trial run. He said 18" . The builder showed up thankfully one row later and said the more nails the better. That one row haunts me to this day. I have one little squeak that thankfully gets stepped on only occasionally. It's the only floor squeak I have and a good reminder to me that a little research beforehand is worth the time spent. I shudder to think if I had nailed the rest that way.
I did 2600 +/- sq ft of flooring in 21 days pretty much by myself. It saved me over $7500 in labor costs. I learned a lot and admire guys who can do that for a living. It just plain beat me up. I keep reminding the wife that that half paid for the tractor

 

[jake98]

I had never done hardwood floors before.

I thought you were talking about sub-flooring.. I was scratching my head. Hardwood flooring definately is hard on you, anybody want to buy a nearly new 'portanailer' or what ever it's called? I'd pay them to take it..

 

[jake98]

That one row haunts me to this day. I have one little squeak

You know you can put a couple 10 finish nails right thru it and you won't even see them..

 

[jake98]

The house plans originally called for trusses spaced at 24" O.C. The original truss design also came back with trusses spaced at 24" O.C. .

I'd take their advice. I see you already have, what, ten more trusses than you need? 40 bucks a piece or thereabouts? 80? Save them for your barn ceiling, you'll save thousands in confusion errors, you'll get better insulation performance, and unless you're like the princess that complained about a pea under her mattress, you'll never mind the difference. Truss floors always have difflection, customers always (maybe not always) voice concerns about it, but they allow you to have open spans that you can't get otherwise. And then you get used to it. If there are partitions above the floor, they'll take out most of the springy-ness once they're sheetrocked. You can take that center wall down when you feel like it. (assuming it wasn't in the plan.)

I admire you and your wife's courage. Cheers.

 

[dave1949]

Are you sure that's true?? I always heard wood had a good
r value. I'm getting older by the minute tho.

Softwoods about R 1.5 per inch. Ever notice on asphalt shingle roofs you can see every rafter outlined in frost, on a frosty morning or course
Dave.

 

[jake98]

That, I have noticed..

That means the heat is coming out thru the rafters faster than thru the plywood?? Obed needs some sleep, you sure we should start talking about this?

 

[dave1949]

That, I have noticed..

I have seen frost lines on studs in framed walls too, but not as much, or it is harder to see.

I think it shows how wood, the rafter in this case, behaves differently from the air space where there are no rafters. Frost forms when the dew point is reached and the dew point is below freezing.

Somehow, the rafter has to be colder than the spaces where there are no rafters. My theory is, as the rafter resists heat transfer less than the air space beside it, it ends up loosing more heat to the roof surface, making a cold spot on top of the rafter. The source of heat is whatever is making it's way up through the attic insulation.

I could be full of beans, but that's how I reason it to be Most insulation works because it creates dead air space.
Dave.

 

[jake98]

I thought it was the rafters that didn't have the frost.. I think the rafters store up heat and then give it off while the rest of the roof freezes.. That's my bowl of bean chili..