At Home In The Woods

[radioman]

Cold Weather Stretch Causing Camper Challenges
The weather forecast is showing we will have at least a solid week with temperatures staying below freezing. The lows are in the low teens with the highs in the mid to upper twenties most days. These temps are colder than normal for this area.

Two days ago, we could tell the water to the camper was trying to freeze by the way the water was coming out of the kitchen faucet (i.e. the water initially came out of the faucet at a trickle but eventually came out at full force as we ran the partially frozen water out of the line). The 100 watt light bulb in the well house had burned out causing the water to start freezing in the well house. Replacing the light bulb fixed that issue. We are dripping the faucets in addition to running a small electric space heater in the camper's storage area where the pipes are susceptible to freezing.

This morning it was 14 degrees F. Our oil-filled electric space heaters could only warm the trailer to 60 F so we turned on the propane furnace. We have had some issues with the furnace in the past so we try not to use it. Fortunately the furnace worked and we were able to warm up the camper.

The biggest problem we are facing is freezing in the black (sewage) tank of the camper. Until the black tank thaws out, we can't use the toilet. For a toilet, we are currently using a chamber pot that used to be our grandmother's. That's how the old-timers did it. That's how my father-n-law grew up in rural Tennessee. Right now, it really does feel like were camping. For winter temps common to this area, hanging a 100W drop light near the black tank normally keeps the valve from freezing and is adequate. The drop light can be seen hanging from the sewage drain pipe in the far-right side of the first picture. However, with the cold weather we're having, I doubt the light is enough. Until the weather gets into the 40's, the black tank contents will never get a chance to thaw without help.

So, I'm attempting a work-around. Living in the camper gives one many opportunities to jury-rig stuff. We have a heating pad that is designed to be used to create a warm bed for pets. Under the black tank, I stacked up some left-over styrofoam that had been used during the concrete wall pour. On the top of the styrofoam I placed the heating pad. I then wedged some boards under the styrofoam to get the heating pad snug up against the black tank. We ran an extension cord and plugged in the heating pad. In the second picture, you can see the black heating pad between the top of the styrofoam and the black tank. Tomorrow evening we'll see if we can dump the black tank. If the heating pad thaws the black tank so it can be dumped, then we can start using the toilet again.

The third picture shows what my wife did to show her gratitude for my working on the black tank in the 15 degree F weather. Blueberry pancakes, biscuits and sausage gravy, and fried apples. All made from scratch. As I type this post, the wife is making a pumpkin pie with homemade pie dough. I sure have a wonderful wife!

Obed

you really need to go to a local farmer and get some hay bales from him. Hopefully you can find one that still uses old rectangles bales. You gotta wrap the perimeter of camper to block the air from moving around under the camper. just stacking it on right against the sides will do, no need to try to fit under the camper. This will help to keep some of the heat escaping from camper to warm the tanks. The black tank should be completely covered with that foam or hay. if you use hay, dont use the heating pad. to thaw out the tank, you need to have running water running through the black tank constantly till its thawed out. start from the outside and run water until you make a hole so whatever water you run form toilet will keep running out. In alaska, they use hot steam to thaw out the pipes, but I am not sure how you can do that with what you have.

 

[jake98]

For Obeds sake, I just hope he takes allot of pictures and holds back payment until he knows it's done right.

Eddie

Eddie, before you trash the trades any more, you should see if this is a case of somebody deciding to change the plans. I guarantee you if they (the designers) wanted a bearing wall there, they would have used 2 trusses instead of one. Don't ya think??

 

[jake98]

Eddie, before you trash the trades any more, you should see if this is a case of somebody deciding to change the plans. I guarantee you if they (the designers) wanted a bearing wall there, they would have used 2 trusses instead of one. Don't ya think??

I don't want to go look at the plans, but I guess I better before I go shooting my mouth off.

 

[jake98]

we are currently using a chamber pot that used to be our grandmother's. That's how the old-timers did it.
Obed

My ex one time served the Thanksgiving soup in one of those. My grandmother who was famous for choosing her words was taxed beyond her limit, momentarily.

 

[Obed]

Per the house plans, we have two sets of floor trusses to span the width (front to back) of the house. One truss runs from the front wall to the center bearing wall. Then there is a second truss that runs from the center bearing wall to the back wall.

The levelling is being done by adding wood (1/2" plate, shims, etc.) on top of the walls and under the floor trusses. That sounds harder than cutting with the sawzaw to me but I have to say that thinking of his cutting cut a bunch of studs with the sawzay made me nervous. I believe I like the leveling by adding wood better if he is successful at it. The framer says he will get the floor level within 1/4". If he gets the floor that level, I'll be happy. Half of the trusses were installed today. It was dark when I got home so there are no pictures.

 

[Obed]

OBED

Dealing with the same weather issues here in southern KY. I dumped our black tank when I saw the chill coming. I'm thinking of getting some RV antifreeze to use in flushing the toilet. Our house is framed, wrapped, windows in and the roof is on. Hired a plumber, but I don't expect much progress with this cold. Our camper furnace has its issues so I bought a "Big Buddy" propane heater to supplement the electric ones. I had a 100 watt bulb in the storage area but had to put a space heater in today do to freezing. We made good use of our YMCA membership today. steam room, sauna and a long shower. We resigned ourselves to spending the winter in the camper, only 7 or 8 weeks till the warm up.

Cary

Cary, I wish you the best. Sounds like your circumstances are very similar to ours. Our space heaters do fine when the temps are in the 30's. However, with highs in the mid 20's and lows in the mid teens, the space heaters aren't quite cutting it. It won't get above freezing here until at least Sunday according to the forcast.

We got home tonight at 8:30 PM. The furnace didn't work right when I first turned it on; the pilot kept going out and the furnace had to keep re-igniting the pilot. I turned the furnace off for a few minutes, then tried again and it worked. I warmed the place up to 75 F with the furnace. Boy that heat felt good! I've just felt chilled all day long once I left the camper and drove to work. I've got the electric blanket warming up the bed right now and am looking forward to getting under those covers after I finish this post.

I let my diesel dually warm up for about 10 minutes this morning. The transmission really complains if you don't warm it up in this cold weather.

Obed

 

[jake98]

Per the house plans, we have two sets of floor trusses to span the width (front to back) of the house. One truss runs from the front wall to the center bearing wall. Then there is a second truss that runs from the center bearing wall to the back wall.

The levelling is being done by adding wood (1/2" plate, shims, etc.) on top of the walls and under the floor trusses. That sounds harder than cutting with the sawzaw to me but I have to say that thinking of his cutting cut a bunch of studs with the sawzay made me nervous. I believe I like the leveling by adding wood better if he is successful at it. The framer says he will get the floor level within 1/4". If he gets the floor that level, I'll be happy. Half of the trusses were installed today. It was dark when I got home so there are no pictures.

That sounds like the way to do it. It had sounded like the bearing wall was an after thought for bounce reduction, but that explains it. You might consider shimming the sills and grouting under them. Good luck. Jake

 

[bake321]

OBED,

The plumber called yesterday and wanted to how much of a hurry I was in. I told him not enough to fight this weather, so we put the job on hold. I don't know that the glue would even set up right in this weather. Now it sounds that it is going to get worse. I bought a 125k btu forced air kerosene heater yesterday and am going to try and thaw out the holding tanks with it. Otherwise we wil be using the old/new chamber pot.

Cary

 

[EddieWalker]

The levelling is being done by adding wood (1/2" plate, shims, etc.) on top of the walls and under the floor trusses.

What are you using for shims? My concern with shims is that it's real easy to micky mouse it and end up with something that can compress when the full weight of the building is on them. The shims must be as strong as the load that they will carry.

One of the basic rules of building is that everything is held in place by gravity. You put one board on top of another. In theory, no nails are needed because it all sits on top of each other. The nails, or fasteners, are just there to keep everything in place.

Imagine the finished picture of the framing and think of where each roof truss rests on the walls. Follow that line down to see what it's resting on. You should be able to go all the way down to the foundation and have a solid support system in place.

If those shims add to the strength and integrity of the building, then that's fine. If they are just wooden strips cut to fit, I'd take the time to evaluate if they are the best way to do this.

Mistakes happen, but it takes one mistake after another to create a disaster. I don't know where this is going, but if it was me, I'd slow down and make sure that I was doing it the very best way possible. With framing, you only get the one chance to get it right.

Eddie

 

[Pops15]

What are you using for shims? My concern with shims is that it's real easy to micky mouse it and end up with something that can compress when the full weight of the building is on them. The shims must be as strong as the load that they will carry.

One of the basic rules of building is that everything is held in place by gravity. You put one board on top of another. In theory, no nails are needed because it all sits on top of each other. The nails, or fasteners, are just there to keep everything in place.

Imagine the finished picture of the framing and think of where each roof truss rests on the walls. Follow that line down to see what it's resting on. You should be able to go all the way down to the foundation and have a solid support system in place.

If those shims add to the strength and integrity of the building, then that's fine. If they are just wooden strips cut to fit, I'd take the time to evaluate if they are the best way to do this.

Mistakes happen, but it takes one mistake after another to create a disaster. I don't know where this is going, but if it was me, I'd slow down and make sure that I was doing it the very best way possible. With framing, you only get the one chance to get it right.

Eddie

You're right on the money Eddie. Shimming the joists should be handled the same way a beam would be shimmed. No plywood. No cedar or pine shims. By code (here in NE IL anyway) we have to use hardwood or steel shims when shimming something that is load bearing.
Pops