Attaching a KK 'tiller

[Buster57]

Attaching a KK \'tiller

Has anyone had any driveline problem hooking the KK ‘tillers to the Kubota? Did you have to cut the drive shaft? My dealer told me one of the most common, and expensive repairs he makes is due to drive shafts on 'tillers not being cut to the correct length. Being an electrical guy I would probably screw this operation up. How difficult is it to cut to the proper length?
I know the dealer is trying to sell me a Land Pride, but I like the gear drive on the KK. I also like the price.
I have an L3010 and really only need a 4 foot 'tiller. This will not cover the wheels but I think it should work fine? What obvious fact am I missing? The tractor is rated at 24 PTO H-P and for most 60" tillers this is at the bottom end of power? Should I move up to the 60”? Will a L3010 handle a 60" tiller?

Please advise.

 

[Chuck52]

Re: Attaching a KK \'tiller

Buster57,

This is an account of my experience and nothing more is intended or implied. Legal talk to cover my butt! I use a 60" KK tiller with my L210, which probably is rated at less than 20pto HP. I have good dirt; a sandy loam. No rocks. I tilled a 55x55 garden, most of which was used last year. No problem, though I did bog down while trying to go full depth in a few spots. I fixed that by slightly raising the tiller with the 3ph, and then got to full depth on a following pass. I also tilled a 200' stip where I planted a roadside barrier. That was virgin sod, and I made 4-5 passes, but it was essentially tilled to dirt after 2 passes. I had the tiller set at the middle of five depth positions for that because I was really only interested in turning under the sod before I mulched the strip. Worked great and didn't even lug the tractor. I have used the tiller to reduce lots of very deep ruts left by gravel trucks and delivery trucks around my house and near my barn during some remodelling. That mostly worked very well. Usually 1-2 passes reduced the ruts to a fairly smooth surface, with chunks of sod mixed in to allow the grass to restore itself. In a couple of places, the soil was very wet and I did have to raise the tiller to get through.....tiller doesn't till goopy mud all that well....surprise! Could you use a 60" KK with your tractor? I bet it would work fine on my soil. Bring your tractor by and we'll give it a try! I had to cut the pto shaft which came with the tiller. No big deal. I did it with a hacksaw, and if I wasn't so cheap and had bought a decent blade it probably would have been easier. As mentioned in other threads about tillers and pto shafts, and there have been many, you will very likely have to cut the pto shaft unless your dealer does if for you.

I repeat: This is what I have done and it works for me on my land.

Chuck

 

[BeeBop]

Re: Attaching a KK \'tiller

I had a L 2900 and I never had to trim the drive shaft for any implement that went on my tractor. I bet you won't have to but if you do it's very easy by trimming the same amount off of the male and female to prevent vibration. I would definitely go w/the 60'' and that Kubota won't know it's back there. 4' is too narrow for your tractor. Good luck!

 

[JJT]

Re: Attaching a KK \'tiller

Go for the 60" tiller, I've got the 72" with 29pto hp and very heavy soil with lots of stones, and have no problems.

 

[Dave41]

Re: Attaching a KK \'tiller

Also, the 48" and 60" usually cost the same. Go figure. There are also some 52" tillers out there if you want to go inbetween.

 

[MrP]

Re: Attaching a KK \'tiller

Buster,

The 60" KK tiller should be fine on your L3010. If the tiller does start to bog down (which I doubt), then adjust the level strips to not cut as deep on each pass.

As to cutting the drive shaft, I also have never had to do so on any implement on my L3410. That being said, it is quite easy to tell if you need to do a trim job (a hack saw will work fine). First set up the implement and measure how far the saft is expanded (if it is less than say 4" be careful). Slowly lift the implement and stop at 1/3 of the way up. If at any time the drive saft is fully compacted, then stop. Don't continue to lift the implement. Disconnet and trim the shaft a couple of inches. If the saft is not fully compated at 1/3, then try 1/2 then 2/3 and 3/4 and finally full rase (checking at each point).

You simply want to make sure that at no point the drive shaft is fully compacted. If it is, raising the implement will push the saft into the tranny of the tractor. This can be a very expensive repair.

Bottom line, you bought a L3010, it has the power... Use it!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: Attaching a KK \'tiller

Thank everyone for the input.

I am still getting used to this tractor. Every time I get in the seat I discover something new. Today I practiced locking the 3 point hitch in the up position (afternoon’s fiasco)....now That was comical. My neighbor is a college professor (Physics) and I am an electrical guy. We were totally lost. Read the manual and still wasted a half a day. Finally my electrician suggested we call the dealer. Amazing what a single phone call can accomplish!

I have decided to buy the 60" KK and be on with it! I really like that model ‘tiller a whole lot anyway. A “Real” farmer suggested I purchase some extra blades-but nothing beyond that. He puts several hundred hours per year on his and plans to buy a new one. He wears them out by constant use. They pay for themselves and the KK brand ‘tiller is all he uses. By the way, he really liked my L3010 and plans to look at the L3710 when he trades in his heavily used New Holland. He can justify the extra expense easily-I still have to figure out what the dials do!

This board has been a tremendous help!