Attaching implements

[HammerFour]

I don't have any dollies ( or a smooth enough barn floor for them to work well either I think, the barn floor is dirt ) but I do use 4x4 posts to set the front edge of the rotary cutter on when I unhook it. That way it is easy to move around a bit as I go to hook it back up as it hasn't sank into the dirt ( they can also freeze down if it's cold enough, that really is a pain ).

I also set my box blade on a pallet for the same reason, easier to hook up without trying to drag it around in the dirt.

I can generally swap implements in 5 minutes or less. I do have Pat's easy change, that helps a bit as well.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

I just bought my first tractor this spring and had the same problems you are with the 3PH. I have learned pretty quickly how to change implements. Many here have said it comes with time and changes, don't worry that is true and it wont take years of practice. A couple of things I have found very helpful. WD40, does wonders on the pins and loosens the ball things on the end of the lower arms on new tractors. Raise the arms to just below the height of the implement when backing up. This helps alignment and getting the correct distance. The biggest problem I found was the geometry of the lower arm swing. I get the lower arm started on the pin but as it moves on the pin the effective length increases. Only one other person on here has come up with the same solution I have for this. Once I get the first lower arm started I attach the top link. I then lengthen or shorten the top link as needed. Sometimes you can watch the lower arm slip on the pin as you are adjusting the top link. I then go to the other side, use the height adjuster on that arm to get the arm the right height and then use the top link again to make the small adjustments. If you want to use the engine instead of the top link, pulling forward will cause the arms to slip on the pins. Backing up will cause them to slip off.

Good luck,
Eric

 

[Michigan_Mike]

I haven't done this with my cutter yet, but I picked up a set of car dollies from Harbor Freight, and put them under my disk harrow. Now all I need to do is get close, and roll the disk into place. (I must admit though, the wheels on these dollies will need to be replaced. They aren't exaclty round. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

 

[Bob_Skurka]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I haven't done this with my cutter yet, but I picked up a set of car dollies from Harbor Freight, and put them under my disk harrow. Now all I need to do is get close, and roll the disk into place. (I must admit though, the wheels on these dollies will need to be replaced. They aren't exaclty round. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)
)</font>

That really is a great trick to use those. Furniture dollies will also work. I have my smaller box blade on 2 Harbor Freight furniture dollies. My Herd Seeder is on a pallet that I cut down and put casters under. On my weight box I just welded H.D. casters right to the bottom of it.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( After about 30 minutes I had it on. I can do it now in 5-10 minutes.
)</font>

I agree. I went from 20 minutes and about 3 tries backing up.. to just backing up and 5 minutes or so.

It's just an issue of practice, and good eyeball alignment, and holding your mouth correctly! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Soundguy

 

[Michigan_Mike]

I wish I could take credit for the idea, but I saw it here on TBN. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[PineRidge]

I actually trained the wife to hook up all the implements while I drink the beer. I think it's a fair arrangement and she agrees. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Mavrik02]

Lots of traffic on this post!

I just got my tractor a few weeks ago (BH, BB, Rake, and RFM). The BB, Rake, and RFM take about 5 minutes to get off and then another 5 to put on. I use the same method described by many already...backing up almost perfectly attaching the lower connections, the PTO and then the top link. The top link takes the most time because I'm always adjusting the length for the different attachments. No pry bar needed.

The BH takes awhile longer but I've taken it off and put it on twice now with only minor issues. It took me about 15 minutes last time I put it on.

 

[Slamfire]

I once parked by rotary cutter on an old trailer wheel that is a spare for my little 2 wheel cart. The weeds were high and I didn't notice the spare was there. The next time I hooked it up, I was amazed at how simple it was to get the lower arms hooked up because I was able to rotate the cutter. I put up a couple of marker pins to line up the wheel with the stump jumper when I want to unhook to use another implement. Another thing is if you can place your lower pins so you spread the lift arms apart to hook up saves a lot of energy also. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[ScottAR]

I do the same Nat... Sometimes I use the loader to push back/pull forward to save getting on and off several times.
2-3 minutes is about average.

 

[crown]

Just as all the others have said practice, practice, and more practice. The first time I unhooked my RFM and tried to hook up the brush hog it took a very long time had some very greasy and bruised hands and quite a few unkind words were spoken. That said 3 years later hook up is a snap, I have found that if you have a flat surface, I use my plywood floor in my shed/garage, works great.
It will get much easier. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[odleefs]

<font color="brown"> IMO the whole 3-point linkage system seems a bit long in the tooth not to mention hard work, i'm beginning to wish i'd bought a toolcat !!..</font>

roller,
If you persist with having difficulties using your tractor's three point implements, you still could get a Toolcat /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. I am a frank novice on the Toolcat and can hook up an attachment in all of 30 seconds with no cursing, prying, persuading, bruising, abrading, tapping, bumping, shifting, aligning, jimmying, coaxing nor cursing. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Good Luck,
Steve

 

[4x4sche]

My opinions:
If you like to hit things ----get a rubber faced soft blow mallet. It can help a little if things don't line up perfectly.
Do not use levers or try and move the implements. Strength is not required if you line it up properly.

1) Extensible lower arms and a hydraulic top link are a valuable time saver. With these there is no need for a quick-hitch.
2) Good suggestion to use the bucket to move the tractor back or forward a few inches. I love this suggestion and would never have thought of it!
3) I set my implements on double stacked pallets, it is much easier to move the arms and place the pins if they are off the ground and the lower arms are level. Easier to work at knee height than at your feet.
4) Sequence:

Set the arms as wide as you can.
Do not extend the arms yet.
Back up and adjust the hitch position control as you go, to get the ball ends 1"-2" below the implement pins. Stop when one of the arms is one half inch in front of the implement pins.
Start with the non-adjustable lift arm. You should now be able to extend the arm and raise it into place
Now fit the other arm (adjust the height if necessary).
Now fit the PTO
Now fit the top link.

 

[Dartagnan]

To Whom it may concern:
(caution, Dart is in the smartalec mode)

A) Original post was a newbie, Probably isn't ready to invest another 4-500 for TNT yet, I've been at it for 18 months and still haven't decided that it is must have...just depends on what you are doing most I guess. $6 bucks for a 5 foot piece of pipe sounds like a viable alternative, although parking the stump jumper on an old tire sounds like an excellent idea to me!

B) Again, original post was a newbie, not sure I would suggest anyone reach down behind seat while tractor is in motion.

C) Being "level". I did not mean this as an absolute, only a general condition, if the Tractor is leaning 10* one way and Hog is leaning 10* the other it can make a couple inches of difference in pin/eye heights.

D) adjusting adjustable link for hooking up?....you have got to be kidding! it takes a crescent wrench to turn mine with no weight on it. Then you have to re adjust with 400 lbs of hog leveraged off of it .....again, piece of pipe fulcrumed on the pallet seems much easier (and faster, the point of the original post was to save time...)

As you can see Roller, there are many different points of view here, that's what makes it such a great board. I don't think I've ever logged on and not learned something I can use. (will need to find a tire before I unhook the hog tommorrow)


Dart

 

[roller]

Many thanks for all the advice guys....i'm getting quicker. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[N80]

Hmm, my adjustable bottom link is very easy to adjust _by hand_, even with a load on it. But, it is new, well greased and has handles on it. Maybe when it gets old and rusty it will be a problem, but right now it couldn't be easier. And it isn't like it has to be adjusted a long distance. A few truns here and there. That's all.

 

[have_blue]

Here's an update! Just out of curiousity I wanted to see how long it REALLY takes me to put on an implement and get ready to go. So I did it pit-stop style, take no prisoners!:

-=START!=-

*Backed out of tractor shed, turned around and backed into tractor shed
*Hooked up and adjusted the brush hog
*Greased the tractor, FEL, and brush hog
*Checked fluid levels
*Sharpened the brush hog blades (on the brush hog)
*Put away tools

-=STOP!=-

45 minutes, ready to mow! <pant, pant>

Never mind, forgot to get the darn fuel. Guess I'll brush hog next week. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif