attachment for cleaning/creating drainage ditches along gravel road

[oosik]

Ok...... this is how I do it now. Even with my 1000 pound Rhino 950 - there are places on my driveway where the rocks are really BIG and difficult to dislodge.

I have a single bottom moldboard plow. I will go down the ditch area - very slow and careful - loosen any big rock. Loosen and partially lift up and out of the ditch. Then with the rear blade - go down the same ditch. This will deepen and lift rocks up onto the driveway.

Most of the time this will complete two things. Deepen and clean the ditches. Add material to the driveway center to improve the crown.

 

[rider89]

I run a Tufline GB1 7 foot.

Here in VT, It's too rocky to do much without tearing stuff up.

But it moves soil, and gravel just fine behind my 35 HP tractor. The ditches on the side of the 500 foot long, steep incline drive, are ledge and bony fill. Hard to do much with it.
Your conditions may differ.

A back blade with tilt and offset is the tool, even if it takes a bunch of passes and some hand work.

do you know the max tilt angle it will go? I've been searching for specs online and tufline/General Implement seems to be keeping it secret. LOL.
Thx, Bill

 

[CalG]

do you know the max tilt angle it will go? I've been searching for specs online and tufline/General Implement seems to be keeping it secret. LOL.
Thx, Bill

It's dark here now.

If I remember, I'll tilt the blade and put the incline-o-meter on it tomorrow.
The leveling box can add tilt as well.

 

[LouNY]

Also as you swing in offset it will increase the tilt considerable. When I swing mine all the way offset then angle the ditching end forward and down it is actually digging at close to a 45. It is just using 5-10 inches of the cutting edge and turning most of the moldboard depth.

 

[CalG]

It's dark here now.

If I remember, I'll tilt the blade and put the incline-o-meter on it tomorrow.
The leveling box can add tilt as well.

5 pin holes for tilt

R 20*, R10*, 0, L10, L20

 

[rider89]

that's a little more than I thought. I'm thinking after a pass or two at max angle and offset, you could reduce the offset and get the tractor tires a little past the shoulder into the ditch and the next pass would increase the angle. And so on until the tractor is uncomfortably tilted. :>) Thanks for the info. Bill

 

[Gordon Gould]

If you have an adjustable side link like most tractors do you can get more angle. I think Lou was saying that too.

gg

 

[rider89]

If you have an adjustable side link like most tractors do you can get more angle. I think Lou was saying that too.

gg

I didn't think about that, and in looking again at the pics of our tractor, it looks like one of the links is adjustable. Thanks a lot.

 

[jyoutz]

I clean and grade my ditches. I have a mile long gravel driveway. My Kubota M6040 with grapple and rear blade weighs a tad over 10,000 pounds.

My first tractor - Ford 1700 4WD - did an adequate job of clearing and regrading the driveway ditches. I had a 450 pound Land Pride rear blade then.

Your 1920 NH is the same as a Ford 1920 and weighs around 3000 pounds. With that front weight and being 4WD it should do the job for you. Now to find a rear blade that will tilt 25 degrees.

If you plan on clearing snow with the rear blade - offset, angle and tilt are a real benefit. Honestly - if a rear blade has tilt - more than likely it will also have offset and angle.

I agree. And this is actually why I bought a larger tractor and heavy 8’ blade . I have the same situation with needing to maintain a fair amount of road with ditches. The key is a blade that will offset a long way, tilt, and has weight, especially if there’s any drop off on the ditch side. I just completed adding the hydraulics this week, so things will get easier this year for snow plowing.