Ski21
Member
Was wondering what would be a good attachment for running an electric line about 30-50yds.
Attachment for Running Electric Line
- Thread starter Ski21
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kennyd
Advertiser
What kind/size of wire? I used this rig for a 12-2...there are quite a few other posts is you search some also.
Attachments
teach
Silver Member
How about one of the three point hitch set ups for holding roles of barbed wire?
Teach
Teach
kennyd
Advertiser
100 amp will need 3 conductors of #2 wire at least and a minimum #6 copper ground wire...That will be be a bit much for a subsoiler attachment and also won't be deep enough (24" min. around here)
I suggest renting a trencher and burying 2" conduit for that type of service. You can also add a second 1" for low voltage wiring.
BWBrown
Bronze Member
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- Oct 28, 2007
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- Ford 1700, IH 2500A
I second the conduit.
Some years ago I ran trench to the barn - 100 yds.
I buried water line, phone cable, electric direct burial wire, and an empty 4" conduit, all 4 to 5 feet deep to protect from freezing.
That summer lightning hit, burnt the power cable.
The 4" allowed me to run a new cable. If I had done it correctly, the wires would have been in the conduit in the first place.
The other problem we would have in this country, is ROCKS, most of which are larger than the house! Stop a subsoiler in its tracks.
Bob
Some years ago I ran trench to the barn - 100 yds.
I buried water line, phone cable, electric direct burial wire, and an empty 4" conduit, all 4 to 5 feet deep to protect from freezing.
That summer lightning hit, burnt the power cable.
The 4" allowed me to run a new cable. If I had done it correctly, the wires would have been in the conduit in the first place.
The other problem we would have in this country, is ROCKS, most of which are larger than the house! Stop a subsoiler in its tracks.
Bob
CharlieS
Gold Member
(Retired master electrician here) For 100 amp service per NEC, minimum required wire size would be #2 if using aluminum and #4 copper wire. Depending on distance wire sizes may have to be adjusted for voltage drop. As mentioned a #6 copper grounding conductor will be needed as will a ground rod at the new installation end. For either wire use 1 1/2 inch conduit will be suffiecient and note that pvc sch 40 is ok for underground use but anyplace physical damage may occur sch 80 is required. If metallic conduit is used underground it will require corrosion resistant coating, ie: tar coated, and minimum depth of 18 inches is required for pvc, Per NEC articles 300 and 310 respectivly for conduit depth and wire sizes.
Check local codes as they may be more stringent than NEC.
Check local codes as they may be more stringent than NEC.
rjkobbeman
Platinum Member
Technically, 4 conductors must be ran to the outbuilding:
2 hots
1 neutral
1 ground
The panel in the outbuilding is considered a sub-panel. Therefore, the neutral and ground should NOT be bonded in the outbuilding panel. Both hots, neutral and ground should be ran from the main panel to the outbuilding panel. In this case, no grounding rod at the outbuilding is required. Grounding is accomplished via the ground rod back at the main building/panel.
UNLESS...
There are no metallic connections between the main building and outbuilding (with the exception of the conductors for power). In this case, only 2 hots and a neutral are required to be ran from the main building to the out building. The neutral and ground SHOULD be bonded at the panel in the outbuilding. A ground rod must be installed at the out building and grounded to the panel. However, if you run say a telephone wire, coax (TV), water pipe or any other metal (conducting) material that connects the main building with the out building, the separate ground wire must be ran as explained above (and bonding screw removed).
Even if you have no metallic connections between the two buildings, the 4 conductor scenario is still valid and legal. When you consider digging a trench, buying and installing conduit, it makes sense to just run the extra wire and be done with it.
As others have said, do account for voltage drop and size your conductors accordingly. You only want to do this once.
2 hots
1 neutral
1 ground
The panel in the outbuilding is considered a sub-panel. Therefore, the neutral and ground should NOT be bonded in the outbuilding panel. Both hots, neutral and ground should be ran from the main panel to the outbuilding panel. In this case, no grounding rod at the outbuilding is required. Grounding is accomplished via the ground rod back at the main building/panel.
UNLESS...
There are no metallic connections between the main building and outbuilding (with the exception of the conductors for power). In this case, only 2 hots and a neutral are required to be ran from the main building to the out building. The neutral and ground SHOULD be bonded at the panel in the outbuilding. A ground rod must be installed at the out building and grounded to the panel. However, if you run say a telephone wire, coax (TV), water pipe or any other metal (conducting) material that connects the main building with the out building, the separate ground wire must be ran as explained above (and bonding screw removed).
Even if you have no metallic connections between the two buildings, the 4 conductor scenario is still valid and legal. When you consider digging a trench, buying and installing conduit, it makes sense to just run the extra wire and be done with it.
As others have said, do account for voltage drop and size your conductors accordingly. You only want to do this once.
ctgoldwing
Platinum Member
I have buried a fair amount of underground cable and I ALWAYS use some kind of conduit to protect the cable - even though its direct burial rated. I work for a plumbing distributor so I usually scavage broken pieces of 1-1/2 or 2" plastic pipe or poly well pipe. We usually manage to have plenty of damaged material around
I don't even bother coupling it together as I am only concerned about abrasions & my fat fingers on the BH slicing through it