Attachment for Running Electric Line

   / Attachment for Running Electric Line #11  
I too recommend the conduit. Most people do not have the capability to locate a fault in a run of wire and unless it is dug into it can be hard to find. It will be much easier to just pull a new run in possibly by using the old run to pull in the new while pulling out the old. I work for a electric company and several years ago we began installing everything in conduit and we have the equipment to locate the fault in the cable. Cost is a little more up front, but well worth it when ever it is needed.
 
   / Attachment for Running Electric Line #12  
(Retired master electrician here) For 100 amp service per NEC, minimum required wire size would be #2 if using aluminum and #4 copper wire. Depending on distance wire sizes may have to be adjusted for voltage drop. As mentioned a #6 copper grounding conductor will be needed as will a ground rod at the new installation end. For either wire use 1 1/2 inch conduit will be suffiecient and note that pvc sch 40 is ok for underground use but anyplace physical damage may occur sch 80 is required. If metallic conduit is used underground it will require corrosion resistant coating, ie: tar coated, and minimum depth of 18 inches is required for pvc, Per NEC articles 300 and 310 respectivly for conduit depth and wire sizes.
Check local codes as they may be more stringent than NEC.

This is how they want it done around here.
 
   / Attachment for Running Electric Line #13  
I am with Charlie on this too, do it once and do it right. That is the cheapest way I think. I am also a licensed master electrician.
 
   / Attachment for Running Electric Line #14  
I also put direct burial in conduit, when I ran 800 foot of 12/2 for the extra lampposts I added, or was it 14/2. Oh well one or the other it was.
 
 

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