Attachments for lawn restoration

[Reg]

I just now came in from frusterating myself beyond belief.
As planned I rented a MF with FEL, bush-hog and york rake (landscape rake?)
The bushhogging went great -my wife says that alone was worth the rental price, I don't think so. Previous land clearer left lots of holes and ruts making it impossible to mow therefore the woods keep trying to come back.
I've tried for many hours to clear the rest of the remaining junk and level/smooth the ground to some semblance of sanity with just the bucket and the rake... It may be because the rented machine hasn't got a float setting but every time the front wheels rise on a lump it digs the rear riding york rake in which creates a new rut, then the front wheel dives into a hole and the rake leaves its load as a lump for me to have to go back for. Rear wheel dives into hole and the rake digs another new rut.
Same situation on the driveway (crushed 3/4" stone) - rut creates rut and the seesaw effect makes it impossible to level it out.
Maybe I'm doing it all wrong. (Any suggestions?)
The tilling and then clearing old veg must be the way to go.

Yes,
Gauge wheels.
I'm in Mass, with a Woods rake (functionally equivalent to a "York" rake) that HAS Gauge wheels.
Ya wanna borrow ?

{OK, so they're "training wheels"}

 

[amigauser]

It may be because the rented machine hasn't got a float setting but every time the front wheels rise on a lump it digs the rear riding york rake in which creates a new rut, then the front wheel dives into a hole and the rake leaves its load as a lump for me to have to go back for. Rear wheel dives into hole and the rake digs another new rut.

There are two things you can do with the landscape rake to avoid this. I used to have the same problem

1) Angle the rake to 45 degrees
2) Use gauge wheels

Idealy you would want to put the 3pt hitch in float to but if not available the angled rake and gauge wheels should solve the digging in problem.

 

[justin caise]

Wow! Thanks! My rental goes back tomorrow night though.
I'm gonna have to try the "angle" angle. You know once I'm frustrated all clear and creative thinking goes out the window. (Read: I should know that)
Very nice suggestion, thanks.
You know - you tube gives such good clear pictures of what different impliments do.
My wife and I just checked out the youtube vids for harley rakes and power rakes and we're thinking we may go that way.
So to the original poster.. research and search and even maybe rent or borrow before deciding which to buy. (But don't get a rake without those training wheels )

 

[AlanB]

I was thinking more in terms of what jeffinsgf indicated with the fluffy topping the tiller leaves. If you don't compact it, I would think that as soon as you drive over it with something fairly heavy, you'll have a rut. Also, with a tiller, I'm wondering how difficult it would be to separate the remaining sod to leave a nicely graded topsoil without clumps of grass and dirt.

I think it has been answered as well, but will shoot it out from my perspective.

As to the compaction after you drive back over it, we seldom drive back over it much, and the times we do have not noticed any large trouble. The ground is definetely "fluffy" dependent on soil condition. I imagine you could roll it if you felt it needed it.

As too the clumps of grass and dirt, I think Jeff just said it and will echo, there should not be any if the ground had the right moisture when you were doing this. SWMBO just did 2 or 3 yards side by side. I got the pleasure of fueling "my" tractor when she ran it low on fuel. Luckily it was "her" tractor again that evening and got it straight without the full on Bleed procedure.

She just tilled down through two existing yards and by the time she was done tilling it just was a smooth bed of topsoil. Jeff's scenario of letting it sit and whacking it again in a week or two would be my reccomendation, but those are things you do yourself, not things you do for a customer who is living in the house (speaking in general terms here)

I guess the biggest thing for me, and we would use a Harley or equivilant more then you I bet, is just how much do you plan to use it?

If you can rent one, and if it is working with all the teeth etc (I don't have the best of luck with rental stuff) then I would do that.

If you are looking to have a piece of equipment, a Tiller is far cheaper I would say less then a third the price or so, and can be used for so much more on total. I was fortunate in that my bud bought the tiller we have as he wanted his food plots done, so his tiller, lives at my house, but it does yards, food plots, gardens, etc. as the opportunity arises.

To the other guy with the york rake, as others have said, gauge wheels or a steady and constant hand and a good eye, and hours of time lifting and lowering the TPH.

We don't have the gauge wheels yet, they are on the project list, but SWMBO has a much steadier and smoother hand and a better eye. It is evident when you see a yard she does, then one I prep.

 

[JMER817]

Jtette, You have rec'd from what I can tell is a lot of good information. I got hooked on this forum about a year ago. Great place to go for advice. Let me tell you about my background and I will give you my two cents. I'm 42 years old and grew up on a small "hobby" farm. We used to work about 20 acres with an older 600 series Ford tractor. When I moved out I still kept a similar tractor around for plowing snow and small jobs. A couple years ago I got into landscaping on the side mainly installing lawns. Recently got out of it due to lack of time. Still have the JD 4310 that I bought for the landscape service. I have installed approx. 15 lawns over the years. Anyhow just wanted to let you know where I am coming from. I am not an expert by no mean on any particular subject, but I pride myself on knowing a little bit about everything.

As far as the best attachment for you to help renovate your current yard, you have a couple options. You can use a rototiller or plow and disc to initially work the ground. The reason I asked what type of soil you had is because although my rototiller was my first tool of choice, I would sometimes get into some trouble if the gound was "rocky". The rototiller would take a beating. You say yours is gravely in the front. I would say you are probably ok with the rotiller. You can also use a plow and disc, and if bought used get your money back if sold when you are done. Both will achieve what you are looking for very nicely. If using a rototiller I would do what a previous responder mentioned, rototill, let it set a week, then hit it again 90 deg to the first pass. I feel a plow will do a little better job of turning the current grass under. New rototillers go for $1200-$2000 new (sometimes hard to find a decent used one). A good used two bottom plow $350 disc $400-800. The rototiller will work nicely for your garden as well.

Wether you till or plow/disc, you will need to go over the soil with something to smooth it and firm it somewhat. You want your footprint to imprint about 3/4" when walking on it. This is the perfect seed bed. You don't want it to be fluffy. You can use a farmers harrow/drag or a landscape rake. I would lean towards a landscape rake which you can use as well to pull off or windrow some of the rocks/stones. Again as a previous comment was made, be sure it has gauge wheels. Much easier to use.

After the seedbed is prepared, broadcast some fertilizer. Use some that has a high percentage of phosphate (15-30-15 middle number) sometimes called "starter fertilzer" The phosphate promotes root growth. Spread per manufacture's recommendation.

After the fertilizer spread the seed. 5-7lbs per 1000 sq ft. Be sure to purchase quality seed. Make sure it has a good mix of KY bluegrass, creeping red fescue, and rye. About a 30% mix of each of these is what I found to work the best. The rye is the fastest germinating in 5-7 days. next is the fescue 10-15 and the KY takes 3-4 weeks to germinate. Eventually the KY will spread and take over. Be sure the seed mix does not have any annual seed. This stuff will germinate quicky, but will not return the next season. You will end up with bare spots.

After spreading the seed, the best thing is to roll it. This presses the seed into the soil for good contact. Or you can drag a push broom or rake lightly across to help cover the seed. Do not cover with more than a 1/4" of dirt. The rolling method I have found seems to work the best. Especially in the gravely areas. Some will say to drag a harrow over it, but I feel this relocates the seed too much and can cover too deeply.

Straw is optional, I have had good results with both. The straw will help hold moisture and definetly help the seed germinate quicker, but if your area gets a lot of high winds, it usually blows around uncovering the bed and makes a mess. be sure to use it on slopes or areas of erosion. A straw blanket is also recommended for high erosion areas or slopes.

Water, Water, Water. I know easier said than done with the size yard you have. You want light (15-20min) watering 3x a day for the first 1-2 weeks. Then gradually reduce the frequency, but increase the length. In 4 weeks you will be mowing!

Just a little note, with the size drive you have, I'm assuming you use a snow-blower. I have found along with others on this site that the landscape rake works as well for clearing snow. Not as nice as a blade, but gives you another use for the rake.

Hope this helps...if you have any questions ...ask

 

[JMER817]

Oh and Wedge.....your wife said that they were "blue" boxers

 

[jtette]

Thanks Jmer817. In terms of a rotary tiller, what are the important features I should be looking for?

 

[Lindy]

Thanks Jmer817. In terms of a rotary tiller, what are the important features I should be looking for?

You should be looking for one that says "King Kutter II" on the side

Many people on the forum have that tiller and seem to like it.

More seriously, you should take into account several things:

1. Tractor HP
2. Tractor's 3pt max weight spec
3. Tractor width -- people like tillers wider than their tire tracks
4. Forward or reverse rotation?
5. Chain or gear drive
6. Budget

Or you could just skip all that and get a KKII at TSC 60" King Kutter at TSC

I have a B3030. 30HP, 23 PTO HP, 53" tire track width. The 60" KKII is a good tiller for my situation.

Of course there are lots of other good tillers out there -- many people on the forum have had great luck with other brands.


ps thanks for the nice post, JMER817.

 

[sld]

I don't want to hijack the thread but what are you guys watering with after you plant?

I would like to refresh my mom's 4 acres of field grass but I am not sure what to plant that will take relying on rain. Years ago I planted some buffalo around the pond and it is doing ok. All the fescue I planted has pretty much died off.

What is the best seed for natural conditions?

 

[JMER817]

I agree with Lindy. I have owned and used attachments from TSC (ie: disc, rear blade, rear scoop) and although not the best quality, but for the price and the little frequency that I used them they worked great. As far as the TSC tiller, I have heard nothing but great good stuff about it. A friends dad has one and swears by it. Do a search on this forum and you will see what I mean. They sound bulletproof!