Attachments for lawn restoration

[AlanB]

You should be looking for one that says "King Kutter II" on the side

QUOTE]

Got To love that part.

Would be my reccomendation as well. Let me explain a bit as to why.

I have a 60" or so Taylor Way (which is tied to KK some how or another I believe)

Anyway, we are rough on that tiller, read the part where I said it does food plots, that is unbroken, ROCKY ground, it spits out rocks the size of footballs and basketballs when we do those.

Anyway, I just don't understand how but I blew up the slip clutch in ours. It is an exciting moment, followed by consternation. Kinda,

Point being the Taylor way used a smaller slip clutch then the KK. And the biggest difference was I could have stopped by the TSC and picked up a new clutch, driveline whatever and kept rolling, whereas with the clutch on mine, I had to wait for the parts to come in.

The KK driveline would not fit between the TPH arms of my tiller.

For us, it would be real nice to have the bigger clutch, and the easier availability of parts, but I do like supporting my local dealer.

If I had to buy another tomorrow though, TSC would have my money, and I would have one of their KK's on the truck.

 

[MarkV]

I think a very important step has been missed in the discussion. Get a soil test done by your county extension agent before you start. If you don’t know what type of fertilizer amounts to use or if the soils PH needs to be adjusted you can spend a lot of money on seed and fertilizer without getting a nice stand of grass.

MarkV

 

[AlanB]

I think a very important step has been missed in the discussion. Get a soil test done by your county extension agent before you start. If you don稚 know what type of fertilizer amounts to use or if the soils PH needs to be adjusted you can spend a lot of money on seed and fertilizer without getting a nice stand of grass.

MarkV

Very Good point that was not covered.

 

[Lindy]

Good reminders about soil conditions and fertilizers.

This seems as good as any a place to ask this question:

Here is a scan of the tag that was on the 50 lb bags of grass seed that I bought. Does it look like reasonable stuff for the cooler climate of western NY? I'm curious to know from people who do this sort of thing a lot (or even for a living). This is my first foray into lawn renovation. Is it a decent quality blend?

I seeded at the "New Lawn" seeding rate about 10 days ago, and it seems to be coming up nicely.

FWIW, it was about $69 per 50 lbs.

 

[jtette]

When I did my lawn behind the barn in September 06 I used the following for about 2 acres which is much less than the recommended quantity for new lawns, but it was more than sufficient. I wish I new where I got the recommendation from, but it was somewhere online. I bought the seed at WH Rhineharts in Middleport, NY at a cost of about $65.

Birdsfoot Trefoil Leo - 7 lbs
Timothy - Climax 5 lbs
Orchard Grass - 7 lbs
Kentucky Bluegrass - 3 lbs
Perrenial Rye - 10 lbs

Total of 32 lbs for 2 acres or 87,120 square feet.

 

[Lindy]

When I did my lawn behind the barn in September 06 I used the following for about 2 acres which is much less than the recommended quantity for new lawns, but it was more than sufficient.

Total of 32 lbs for 2 acres or 87,120 square feet.

Wow, I put down about 25-30 times as much as did you per square foot. I'm surprised that 0.37 lbs per 1000 square feet did the job based upon the guidelines on the tag on the stuff I bought. I put down about 10 lbs per 1000 square feet (150 lbs for 15,000 square feet) per the recommendation. It's nice to know that I might be able to get away with a lot less than that. Grass seed is expensive

 

[jtette]

I don't know if it makes a difference, but my mix was a pasture mix. Having said that, I can't tell the difference between my "pasture" and everyone else's lawn or my own for that matter. I also rolled it in so the birds didn't eat it all.