Austrailian built McCormick

[duggie]

Australian built McCormick

I posted earlier in a thread My Tractors but seeing I will be rebuilding this McCormick I thought it would be better here.
I am still learning about these. Its an A414. A for Australian built as opposed to the B414 which is British built.
I have been told there were only 5,400 of these built between Oct 1963 and Nov 1966.
Here is a pic of what they should look like.
Duggie

 

[duggie]

Re: Australian built McCormick

It had been sitting out in the weather for years and is pretty rusty.
The steering box had water in it and was seized.
I rigged up a fuel system and it tried to start but looking inside the cover of the IP I could see rust so sent it to the diesel shop for a recon .
The front wheels need replacing too as the rims are rusted out.
Trying to upload photos. Worked last time but not now for some reason. I will try later.

 

[Wagtail]

Found it on Tractordata.com, Mate:

TractorData.com International Harvester A-414 tractor information

Best of luck. :thumbsup:

 

[duggie]

Thats the one

I will try again for a photo.

No its not working. I have the others in the upload pane but cant get any new ones up.

 

[duggie]

Try again.
Amazing
It worked again.

 

[duggie]

Starting from the front end.
The clutch is stuck and I want to get it mobile so I can try and jerk it free.

Duggie

 

[duggie]

Got a problem.
Anyone know how to remove this seat frame in order to move it forward to the next hole.
The fittings dont look as if they screw out and I tried tapping them with a hammer and they dont move.
Ideas???

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Hit with a hammer and a punch from the outside . It must be free

 

[duggie]

Sorry it was not clear from the photo.
It turns out they are pins the seat pivots on but they go into the curved pipe frame. No way to knock them out.
I had to cut through them with a slitting blade in the angle grinder then cut the pipe frame again to knock them out.
The frame was full of black rusty water so no wonder they were seized in.
Anyway , I turned up a couple of new ones in the lathe and will have to weld the pipe frame together again and reassemble with lots of grease.

 

[duggie]

Well I got a bit more done, enough to fire it up. Problem is that it started to fill the sump with water.
I had done a compression test and thought the head gasket was good so removed the sump.
Refilled the block with water and sure enough there were little drops of water dripping from between the liner and block.
These have wet sleeves and the O ring seal must have given up. Its been there a long time.
So off with the head and try to pull the liner.
Took me all day with the first one but much of that was making a plug puller thing to engage the bottom of the liner.

 

[Wagtail]

As long as you're having fun Mate.

Were you south enough, the other week, to get snow?

 

[duggie]

Not quite, we are inland a bit from the Sunshine Coast.
You lot can keep that white stuff down there, we dont need it.
Though a bit of rain would be good, its getting bloody dry. Going to be a bad fire season with all the long grass around.

 

[Wagtail]

I didn't cop any snow either, but St Helens is the "Riviera" of Tassie. I have had my pipe from the tank freeze twice this season... just had to wait 'til 1030 to have a tubs. (Note to self: see if there's some pipe lagging in town)

The cold has led to a shortage of hay as the local stock are eating more than usual.

 

[duggie]

It was 3 degrees C on the verandah this morning. Thats too cold for here. We only have four horses on 40 acres so still have plenty of tucker.
Still need rain but.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Now to clean the inside off the block . Sleeves must go in freely before you install the o-rings with liquidsoup . Remember to apply a bit of silicol in the topstep of the block to assist with sealing .

 

[duggie]

Yep, just waiting on my rebuild kit to arrive. It comes with new gudgeons and big end shells as well.
I was wondering if putting silicon sealer on the O rings would be an idea. It would act as a lube for the liner and seal as well.
I thought of putting a dab in the top too.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Liquide soap on o-ring and bottom part of sleeve....no silicon there ! Silicon will harden and float and block your coolingsisteen .
After installing sleeves use topbolts and a nut that fitts on it to clampdown the sleeves when installing the pistons and rings .
The combustinchambers should not protrude from the top(silinderhead)

 

[duggie]

Thanks for the tips. I gather you have done this before.
At first I thought a PCC had dropped down a bit but on cleaning the head , it is pitted around it. I gather water must have been leaking in there at some time.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Hi
On checking the photos of the silinderhead it looks to me that the glowplugs is connected wrong ? There is two steps (connectingpoints) on one glowplug And to connect all of them you need to connect no 1 and 2 and then no 3 and 4 (big eyes on the lead )and then the isolators on all 4 glowplugs after that you add the next connection between 2 and 3 and then the power at no 4 and the earth at no 1(all smaller eyes on those leads). But before that you will have to pressuretest the silinderhead for any cracks . They crack normaly between the PCC and the valveseats . Replacing the silinderhead is a good idae but if not avalable then stitching must do .
In the gasketset you get 8 big copperwashers , 4 with a bigger ID , use them with the old ones to lift your PCC to let your piston clear the PCC when you start the engine for the 1st time.

 

[duggie]

You are very observant
The glow plugs are Toyota ones and made to be connected like that.
Supposed to be an improvement in that if one craps out the other 3 still glow. Not like the original system.
The adapter is locally made and sold on ebay here.