auto darkening helmets

[k0ua]

It will be much easier on you starting out if you use thicker metal and clean metal. Even if using 6011, you will have much nicer beads if you clean the metal down to bright shiny steel first. As many have noted, thin metal is difficult to keep from blowing holes in. As you become more skilled it is doable, but just starting out, I sure would use thicker clean metal. No sense frustrating your self out of the gate.

 

[daugen]

thanks Jim. Part of the old rusty piece had been cleaned off, but my friend was experimenting to see how it did on rusty old junk and frankly the rod bit right through. But nasty results. He surprisingly has little stick time but rather started many years ago in production welding using TIG I believe. Which if I get the gas bottle(s?) for, all the other attachments are here including the foot pedal. I want to learn stick first. I know other methods may be easier, but for welding mower decks, I think stick will do fine for me. Nor do I have to worry about explosive gases.
No, I didn't write down the number on the rod...tomorrow. I have four rod numbers, will write them all down. All bought at least four years ago and the first one worked great right out of the broken box.

I tried the autodarkening helmet I had and needed to turn it all the way up, as in brighter, to see much. On dark from a few feet back couldn't see much. Probably much different with your face right up against it.

 

[daugen]

it's interesting to see that the most popular auto darkening welding helmet on Amazon is about 45 bucks, and what I saw as entry level to the good four sensor models, with grinding settings, was about 85 dollars. The name brands were double that, to start. My $85 Chinese auto darkening helmet is very lightweight, almost flimsy with a big made in China sticker. But maybe lightweight is very good, assuming it lasts. I need to check the battery and test it, those cells should be good for 7-10 years doing nothing, but if used who knows.
well, I bet some of you know... I'd much rather use rechargeable triple A's.

 

[k0ua]

Tig of course always requires very clean metal. A lot of guys will even wipe down the weldment and filler rod with acetone before starting.
But clean metal never hurts even when using a know rustbusting rod like 6011. Clean is just best for everything, but it is a matter of degree, and what you are doing. If welding on some rusty tractor part out in the middle of field to get a piece of equipment going, then by all means weld away. The most common TIG gas is not explosive by itself, In fact you could use it to put out fires. It is argon. Non explosive, and non toxic, non reactive. It is in a high pressure vessel of course, and if you heated that like in a fire, it would explode at some point in time.

 

[daugen]

The most common TIG gas is not explosive by itself, In fact you could use it to put out fires. It is argon. Non explosive, and non toxic, non reactive. It is in a high pressure vessel of course, and if you heated that like in a fire, it would explode at some point in time.

I'm very familiar with argon, so I was worried about nothing. Ok, all good.
Really, really do not want to burn my barn down... lots of ignition points, big compressor going
on and off, lights, too many years as an insurance underwriter trying to figure out every possible thing
that could go wrong. Because they do and you always have new ones. I don't want
to be a Darwinism example...
and you know I was a fireman for many years. I've seen enough alligator char to ever, ever
want to see that happen to me.
Acetone, paint thinner and denatured alcohol in the wood shop, gasoline cans, oil storage cans, lots of oil, lots of diesel, which we all know is very hard to get to burn thankfully, and I have plenty of other flammables and combustibles to worry about. Lots of wood inside and in outside racks.
So I have good metal trash cans and have signage and simply try not to have a stupid attack.

I have two welding blankets I will use if necessary.

 

[daugen]

I hope the OP will come back and tell us how his new helmet is working out.
this is a passionate and helpful group and the conversation can go astray easily.
I'm likely in the market for a better helmet, say for a 100-125 dollar final cost.
The real value question is when does diminishing returns set in quickly as you pay more.
When is good enough very good actually, and not too expensive.

 

[woodlandfarms]

One note from me is that I now put a big work light like a 500 watt halogen over the workpiece. If I go too light on the settings I get tired eyes quickly. The light helps a lot for me.

Oh and I love my doubler I use in helmet.

 

[k0ua]

One note from me is that I now put a big work light like a 500 watt halogen over the workpiece. If I go too light on the settings I get tired eyes quickly. The light helps a lot for me.

Oh and I love my doubler I use in helmet.

Another vote for the work light shining on the workpiece. It makes a very positive difference. As I get older, I take every "cheat" I can.

 

[Big Barn]

I NEVER use the grind feature on my helmets. I'd much rather take the extra ten seconds (or less) to take my helmet off and put on safety glasses or face shield. This gives me a quick breather to think about what I'm doing and then grind in comfort with better visibility.

I REALLY like the Lincoln and Optrel AD lids I have, but for some unknown reason I always grab the "free" Tweco helmet that came with my Thermal Arc 181i. Not sure why......



Terry

 

[dragoneggs]

I don't like grinding with my helmet on either. The better visibility of goggles allows me to see where the sparks are going not to mention less of a claustrophobic feeling.