Automatic transmission cooler

[johnday]

Dozer; Excellent!! I can find that with not much of a problem. Worse thing will be climbing under the truck, I hope. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Highbeam]

I got mine for the RV pulling. Very entertaining gauge along with a vacuum gauge.

Should be a piece of cake to get that ford set up. I recommend not using any sealant since this is a pipe thread fitting and since anything that interferes with the grounding of that sender will effect the gauge reading. Mine runs below 125 if I'm empty unless I'm on a long drive. Trans temp doesn't change very fast.

 

[johnday]

Highbeam; I've been running mine on the return line since I put it in. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif It's a B&M unit, and the instructions said to put it in that way. The injunear in me said that's probably not the best spot, why would I care as much about the return temp more than what's leaving the trans? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I've also got a 32klb cooler installed. I've seen temps up around 150-160 dragging 11k at 70 mph. No trans problems with just over 100k on the truck. But think I'll change that location of the sending unit, I'd heard of the test port, but never remembered to ask anyone that "should" know, to show me. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gifThanks guys. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Highbeam]

You've got to figure that the return line should be the coldest that the fluid will ever get once everything has warmed up initially. I have heard of that from B&M but don't understand it. I suppose it is valid to check that you are not adding super hot fluid to the sump, sort of a check to your coolers ability. I am more concerned with the transmission and not the coolers. Plus that return line would be really boring to watch.

There are guys so obsessed with this that they have several sensors and a switch to flip between them. The general consensus is that the test port temp is approximately equal to the sump temp.

Oh, by the way, the OEM trans temp sensor for GM is in the valve body of the trans, not on the hot line out or the cold line in. The Ford OEM trans temp gauge is reportedly a fancy idiot light that goes to the middle and stays there until it's too late.

 

[HGM]

I think the point is to monitor the stable temp. The hot side, like you said, is subject to converter operation. If you monitor the pan, then you have a realistic idea of system operation. the port you are talking about will definitly suffice, though I think the cold side would be more like the MFG setup. Either way you prefer to look at it, you can monitor the temp, we all agree its critical.

 

[Cityboyfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( YOu don't want to use the push pins through the radiator because they rub holes in the radiator tubes. It is hokey at best and there is a reason that no manufacturer would butcher the job like that. They all use brackets and so should you.)</font>

Darn it! I've had one exactly like that for the last 13 years and 251,000 miles still on my original transmission in my 1992 K1500 /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Guess I'd better head to the parts store and get this fixed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Actually, my transmission cooler is mounted up against my air conditioning condenser, which is mounted in front of the radiator, which I think all vehicles are made this way. Those nylon or some type of plastic push pins have yet to rub a hole in the condenser tubes or radiator tubes. The condenser is original equipment. I did change the radiator once when I put in the new engine at 185,000 miles. (Should have used an engine oil cooler, huh? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif) But no holes rubbed in any radiator tubes thus far.

The bottom line IMHO is that a transmission cooler is worth installing and will extend your transmission life, however you choose to mount it. So, mark my vote "yes" for the trans-cooler. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Highbeam]

True, you could just JBweld the whole stack of radiators together and be done with it.

On these new diesels you have the AF radiator, A/C condensor, intercooler, power steering cooler, and atf cooler. Some even have an engine oil cooler. By the time the air gets to the rear most cooler it must be warmed up pretty good.