AZ ranch

[EddieWalker]

Timber Lock is a name brand for structural screws, which have pretty much replaced lag bolts. There are a variety of head styles out there to choose from. The advantage to them over lag bolts or regular bolts is in how easy they are to install, and how much thinner they are when compared to lags and bolts to achieve the same results. But what's most important is that you get the look that you are wanting.

 

[BoFuller]

Question on timber looks. Can you take them out and reuse? Or are they suppose to be one-time use? I took one out and then tried to reuse it, but it would not go back in. Maybe I hit a nail and damaged the tip, I do not remember.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've re used every one that I have ever removed, but some of the super long, kind of thin ones have given me issues in getting them in. 12 inch long and they will go about half way to 3/4 of the way in with my driver, and then stop. I can't get them out, or in farther, no matter what I do, so I've either left them as they are and work around them, or cut them off if they will be visible, and put another one it off to the side. My guess is that they hit something or the grain of the wood binds them up so much that they just wont go any farther. I honestly don't know what happens.

Those are not the structural ones, but the thinner fasterner type screws. On the "structural" ones, they are a lot thicker and I've never had one of them give me any issues. The "structural" screws will meet code in a lot of places. I wont say everywhere because places like CA, FL and now LA are constantly changing and what was OK last year isn't always allowed this year.

 

[BoFuller]

Thanks!

 

[3Ts]

About re-using the screws. I'm not sure about Timberlok, but some screws have a coating on them that acts as a lubricant when driving and turns into a glue once it cools. I suspect Timberlok has at least a lubricant since they go in so easy that is rubbed off during the first installation.

 

[BoFuller]

The ones I got are “Structural”, as called for by the engineer. He said to use them on the diagonal bracing for the deck and for securing the 2nd floor ledger board to the house log. It’s hard to believe that they are replacing lags. They look so skimpy. But they are easier to drive in.
The engineer did not do any of the drawings for the railing or he might have called for them there too. I may use them to attach the upper and lower railing to the vertical posts yet. I used big bolts to attach the posts to the Rim Joist though. That may be enough to satisfy the industrial look I like.

 

[BoFuller]

Here are the bolts in my railing posts that I prefer over the structural screws. If you look closely, you can see structural screws holding that diagonal brace.

 

[civilian]

I've re used every one that I have ever removed, but some of the super long, kind of thin ones have given me issues in getting them in. 12 inch long and they will go about half way to 3/4 of the way in with my driver, and then stop. I can't get them out, or in farther, no matter what I do, so I've either left them as they are and work around them, or cut them off if they will be visible, and put another one it off to the side. My guess is that they hit something or the grain of the wood binds them up so much that they just wont go any farther. I honestly don't know what happens.

Those are not the structural ones, but the thinner fasterner type screws. On the "structural" ones, they are a lot thicker and I've never had one of them give me any issues. The "structural" screws will meet code in a lot of places. I wont say everywhere because places like CA, FL and now LA are constantly changing and what was OK last year isn't always allowed this year.

I was using 10" timberloks to connect 6x6 treated for a short retaining wall. I was using a Makita 18v impact drill. On the first one impact go t in quite far, but not enough because of a dying battey. New battery would not drive in or out. So 14" pipe was used to remove it. The a 18v Makita hammer drill was used to install the rest of the timberloks. I also have a corded 1/2" 1660's vintage Craftsman drill to install similar 14" timberloks doing into/thru 3 pieces of 6x6 treated. Jon

 

[AllByteNoBark]

I was using 10" timberloks to connect 6x6 treated for a short retaining wall. I was using a Makita 18v impact drill. On the first one impact go t in quite far, but not enough because of a dying battey. New battery would not drive in or out. So 14" pipe was used to remove it. The a 18v Makita hammer drill was used to install the rest of the timberloks. I also have a corded 1/2" 1660's vintage Craftsman drill to install similar 14" timberloks doing into/thru 3 pieces of 6x6 treated. Jon

Wow, a drill that old may have some serious collectors value! :laughing:

 

[EddieWalker]

I also have a corded 1/2" 1660's vintage Craftsman drill

Some typos just make me laugh

 

[civilian]

Some typos just make me laugh

It took two replys for me to realize my typo. Thanks guys. Jon

 

[BoFuller]

I finished with the floor boards. I will resume with the railing when I get back in a couple days.

 

[fitter1]

What kind of chinking is that? Does it shrink much?

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks nice.

Are you putting your corner railing posts on the inside of your decking, and the stair post on the outside? How will you line up your railing?

 

[BoFuller]

What kind of chinking is that? Does it shrink much?

The chinking is concrete - 6 parts sand to 2 parts Portland cement to 1 part lime

This is one place where I disagree with the guy on Barnwood Builders - who says never use concrete.
It works, and is way less expensive than synthetic chinking. It does not shrink. The logs have shrunk a little bit over the past 5 years, so I am going around and sealing the crack with Permachink synthetic chinking. Much easier to squeeze it out of a tube for small cracks and not a huge financial burden when you just need it for cracks.

 

[BoFuller]

Looks nice.

Are you putting your corner railing posts on the inside of your decking, and the stair post on the outside? How will you line up your railing?

Good eye. I wanted the posts on the outside, and I will secure the cross pieces with either bolts or structural screws. I had two posts from the previous little porch that were on the inside corner, which I put up just to see what they look like. I think I will probably leave them there just to make it look tougher, stronger. I may run a screw through the end into the rail, or I may put a block under the rail and secure it to those corner posts. Either way they are not really contributing much to the strength. If they don’t look right, then I will take them out.

 

[fitter1]

The chinking is concrete - 6 parts sand to 2 parts Portland cement to 1 part lime. Thanks, but what does the lime do?

 

[BoFuller]

Lime gives it more strength, adds a little flexibility, and adds a little bit of moisture proofing.
The downside is that it takes longer to cure. Today, time is money, so the faster concrete dries the better, but for my build, I didn’t care how long it took.

 

[fitter1]

Thanks.

 

[BoFuller]

I had hoped to make some progress on the deck railing, but with temps going down into the teens this week, I decided that stocking up on firewood was more important.