B2620 Usage Questions

[TheIglu]

Before I take the plunge on a B2620 that has tickled my fancy, was hoping for a little more input from the collective knowledge base here before I dig myself into a hole. That's the final pun of this post.


Snow:

Living in New England, we regularly get snowfalls of 6-10" which I can handle with the 4-wheeler and plow. When we get the big storms 2-3x a year, 12"+ inches, I have to use Big Red (IH B414 2wd). With chains and a big counter weight, she does the job though the hill on my 450' gravel driveway gets hard to get up with 2wd and a 10' plow mounted in a snow bucket. Pushing snow isn't an issue at all other than that. Will a very light tractor like the B2620 do alright pushing snow with the FEL or a SSQA/FEL mount plow? Say a 6'?

Would I be better served keeping the FEL on there and using a rear mounted blower for the big storms which will allow me to toss the snow out far and not develop snowbanks? If so, what is the recommended width for a 2620 being the machine is spec'd at 49" wide? Looks like Kubota has a 51" rear mounted blower (B2789). Is there a slightly wider one that would be worthwhile? I'm open to non-Kubota brands, keeping in mind that this will likely be used somewhat infrequently and only for the big storms.

Continuing on with the barrage of annoying questions: The tractor in question has a BH65 backhoe already. Does that mean I have rear remotes available to run the hydraulic chute rotation of a rear mounted snowblower? Wouldn't I need another control valve to operate it? Or, would I need to run a 3rd function off the FEL valves and could I run quick disconnect lines up front (for a grapple) and also to the back (for chute rotation) since both ends will never be used at the same time?


Box blade:

My driveway is junk. Bottom half if full of holes from water collection/splashaway and baby head rocks. Hard rocky New England soil. Already have a heavy 6' back blade but it just gets caught on rocks and bounces up or leaves a big drag scar from whatever rock it takes with it. First off, would a box blade with scarifiers be a good option to loosen/grade/crown the driveway for proper drainage? Will it yank out the rocks (up to melon sized) or is that asking too much? Anything bigger than that will be yanked out with the backhoe. If so, what size is good for a 26hp HST tractor like the B2620? Remember, 49" width. I don't mind making a number of runs. Also, is the Tractor Supply ones alright or should I hit up someone like EverythingAttachments for a better one?

Front Grapple: Hydraulics question was asked up above in snow regarding the FEL valving. What size/model would be good for a 2620? 52" or so? I don't need something huge, mostly for picking up rocks/brush/logs. The backhoe has a thumb for the big stuff.


Seems so much of this forum is concerned with Brush Hogging or mowing, or they live where clay is their biggest concern in the ground. I live within two miles of TWO old granite quarries, so that should give you an idea of the lumpy ground I'm working with.

Thanks for the help. Can't wait for some seat time on this little machine assuming it will do what I want it to do.

 

[s219]

I'll let people in snowier climates respond on the plowing, but I will tell you that traction is often the limiting factor in these smaller tractors.

I had a 50" box blade on my 2920 (same as 2620 but more HP) and it was great. If full of material, the tractor would run out of traction pretty quick, so I couldn't imagine using a bigger box on that tractor.

How firm is the lower part of the driveway? If it's compacted well, have you though about just having a load of crusher run delivered, and use it to smooth over the existing mess and level things out? I'd hate to disturb a stable compacted driveway with a rocky base, seems like it would be asking for trouble and could be a lot of work (and in the end you'd still have to bring in crusher run anyhow). If you can solve the problem with a 4" spread of crusher run groomed with a box blade, maybe that's a good way to go.

Around here, the problem is soft soil and clay, so we have to build up a base of large stone then top off with crusher run. Sometimes even put down cloth under the base rock to keep it from sinking. So half the battle is establishing a firm base. If you already have that, don't screw it up!

 

[TheIglu]

The firm base has places that hold standing water, that's the problem. Maybe building it up with some fill, then crusher run (which is working well on the top of the driveway) would be the proper move. I need to get the crown back, that's for sure.

 

[bp fick]

Your post describes a general "tone" or expectation of some rather aggressive work expectations. The B tractor, especially the 20 series B's are small, compact tractors. They're physically small and compact and super light weight. They've adequate horsepower, but putting it to full use isn't always easy because the tractor is light for traction. I hear of rocks and logs and hills and large implements and I just scratch my head a bit. Not saying you shouldn't look into that particular machine, but there are limitations as to lifting power, hydraulic pump power, the physical weight of the tractor itself.

Maybe it's just me but I'm kinda getting a vibe here that suggests that caution seems advisable. I sure wouldn't want you to be disappointed in that compact because of unmet expectations. Just saying'.

 

[TheIglu]

Noted. I'll be seeing the machine in action on Sunday to make a final determination if it will do what I want it to in the long run. I only have 3 acres and a neighbor with a full sized excavator, so doing all the big work isn't what I am buying it for.

For example, first job scheduled is to dig down 4' to put new post tubes in for a larger deck after smoothing the driveway and spreading 30 yards of topsoil for grass.

 

[MortalWombat]

I have a B2320, so it has 3 less hp than the B2620 and a smaller bucket. This past winter we got a pretty big snowstorm (for our part of the country) which dumped about 10". I have an old 6' rear scraper blade, and if I angled it pretty steeply, it could handle maybe about 6" before the the blade started acting like a sail and pushed the rear end to the side. This is with unloaded R4 tires without chains.

I also had to deal with some substantial drifts across my long driveway, maybe 2-3 ft deep, which I took a bite out of bit by bit with the front loader. It was doable, just slow. The thing that made it most difficult was the -10° temps plus wind, which only allowed me to work for maybe 30-40 minutes at a time until I couldn't feel my fingers and toes. I had to keep going back inside to warm up.

 

[bumperm]

The thing that made it most difficult was the -10° temps plus wind, which only allowed me to work for maybe 30-40 minutes at a time until I couldn't feel my fingers and toes. I had to keep going back inside to warm up.

You are way tougher than me! Picture taken before the snows . . .



Heater and air conditioner, can sip coffee and listen to music while "working" . . . :c)

 

[sandyc]

I have a 2620 that I use for snow on my 300 ft plus drive and love it. I have both the front blower and blade that handles the snow with no problem. I have loaded r4 tires that hardly lose traction in snow or ice. I tried leaving the bh65 on for weight but found that was making the front end a bit lite.
All in all the only thing I would want is a heated cab. Guess that will be in another life!

 

[buck boost]

Before I take the plunge on a B2620 that has tickled my fancy, was hoping for a little more input from the collective knowledge base here before I dig myself into a hole. That's the final pun of this post.


Snow:
<snip>Pushing snow isn't an issue at all other than that. Will a very light tractor like the B2620 do alright pushing snow with the FEL or a SSQA/FEL mount plow? Say a 6'?


Would I be better served keeping the FEL on there and using a rear mounted blower for the big storms which will allow me to toss the snow out far and not develop snowbanks? <snip>

Continuing on with the barrage of annoying questions: The tractor in question has a BH65 backhoe already. Does that mean I have rear remotes available to run the hydraulic chute rotation of a rear mounted snowblower? Wouldn't I need another control valve to operate it? Or, would I need to run a 3rd function off the FEL valves and could I run quick disconnect lines up front (for a grapple) and also to the back (for chute rotation) since both ends will never be used at the same time?


Box blade:

<snip>First off, would a box blade with scarifiers be a good option to loosen/grade/crown the driveway for proper drainage? Will it yank out the rocks (up to melon sized) or is that asking too much? Anything bigger than that will be yanked out with the backhoe. If so, what size is good for a 26hp HST tractor like the B2620? Remember, 49" width. I don't mind making a number of runs. Also, is the Tractor Supply ones alright or should I hit up someone like EverythingAttachments for a better one?

Front Grapple: Hydraulics question was asked up above in snow regarding the FEL valving. What size/model would be good for a 2620? 52" or so? I don't need something huge, mostly for picking up rocks/brush/logs. The backhoe has a thumb for the big stuff.


Seems so much of this forum is concerned with Brush Hogging or mowing, or they live where clay is their biggest concern in the ground. I live within two miles of TWO old granite quarries, so that should give you an idea of the lumpy ground I'm working with.

Thanks for the help. Can't wait for some seat time on this little machine assuming it will do what I want it to do.

Hi. I have a 2920 which is the same machine (as prevoiusly mentioned), and some seat time, so I have a few thoughts.

Snow first:

From what I understand, you want to clear your 450' drive when snowfall has acumulated around 10"+. I would probably go snow blower. I don't have a lot snow blowing experience, but I have a 60" front blade from kubota.

http://i.imgur.com/cDbtBa4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0DAwqTZ.jpg

She will push a lot of snow, but 10"+ is going to be slow. Kubota does offer a front mounted blower as well, and that sounds a whole lot better to me than being wrenched around backward for that long. I personally don't really like the idea of a fel/SSQA blade on the loader eitheir. With a lot of side loading on the fel frame, I think you diamond the loader frame. It is not meant/built for force on that kind of angle, and it is not "industrial" rated like a skid steer. The 26/2920 won't do you any good with a 6' blade. That is just too big.

As far as blower size, I can't really help. Since the machine you are looking has a fel, just adding a 3pt blower would probably be the most economical option.


The backhoe hydrualics are totally separate from rear remotes. So if you want hydro chute rotation, you will need one rear remote.

Driveway repair:

I don't use a box blade for gravel work, so I can't really help much there as far as those capabilities go. The fel and bh would be my first go-to tools to get rid of all those big rocks (melon sized).

For rocks and brush, I put on the tooth bar that came with the tractor. I would use the fel with a tooth bar and or hoe, and build up the rocks in piles. Then just scoop em (or throw them in the bucket by hand) and fill in with the loader.

http://i.imgur.com/ROkl94p.jpg

I don't have a better pic of the tooth bar, but it works really well. It sounds like getting rid of the boulders and 75 yards of gravel is what is needed to do your driveway repair. The fel works really well and has good power. With a little practice and patience, it is faily easy to do a nice grading job with it. A regular 3pt blade (60") can be had fairly inexpensively also. And you can also adjust/angle it to build your crown with the three point blade.

Can't help much with the fel grapple. I don't know much about them. Not even sure what is available for that small of a tractor. I don't think a third function valve is available, so a rear remote would be needed. As far as size, 50" is about the size of the std front bucket, so that sounds to me like a good number.




The attraction of going to a bigger size machine (or smaller for that matter) is something consider carefully. It really depends on your situation and LONG-term plans. Uh oh, I just knocked out all the big projects, and my tractor is big. Or, uh oh, I went with the smaller tractor and this is REALLY taking too long, and I have years of bigger projects that need to be done. Sure, you can always sell and get something different, to suit your needs if they change. But that takes more money than to keep the one you have .

Oh, if you do decide to go with the 2620, get the rear tires filled, if not already.

My 2920 has very pleasantly surprised me how capable and versatile the lil tractor is. Everything from bush hogging 5' grass to moving many yds of gravel, to chipping, snowplowing, you name it. Very, very happy with it.

Hope this helps! And keep asking

 

[ericher69]

63" blower front or back will be a dream to use as opposed to a rear blade for 10" of snow.

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