Chains B2710 Maintenance, Chains and Etc.

[M. Sullivan]

One (busy) summer under my belt (50 hours), and LOVE IT. Wouldn't imagine it would save me so much time!!

Turned to 50 hr maintenance and winter thoughts and figured I better check-in on the forum...

A few questions:

- Change f. axle fluid at 50 hours--any reason not to??

- Tire chains: Told only need front...have turf tires and a 5' r. blade. Should I get rear chains instead, or both??

- Chains again: Anywhere for 'how-to make your own' for a moderately handy person?? Want quality/safety ones. Quoted $120 for just the fronts from a dealer, can't imagine the charge for the rear.

- Winter fuel: Manual says D#1 for <14F degrees.....is this essential to the point I do not plow the road until it's above 14F?? Can you mix #1,#2?? How about #1 in the tank and the temp goes to 50+F (anything can happen in Michigan winters), a problem??

- Engine Oil: Manual says API CC or CD. Dealer sold me API CG4-CF. A problem?? Note: Plan to switch to Amsoil at 150 hours.... Also, read post about 50 hr maintenance tips....a day too late: Only drained from 1 drain bolt......off for 4 more quarts and a filter!

Thanks in advance!

 

[Bird]

M.Sullivan, Manual only calls for first front axle oil change at 300 hours, but I did mine at 50 hours. Probably a waste of money and oil, but it sure can't hurt anything.

Tire chains - I don't need them and don't know.

Winter Fuel - there has been some other more detailed discussions on the forum previously, but if you buy fresh fuel locally, it's probably blended for your local weather conditions. You can mix #1 and #2 with no problem. You can also add a conditioner to prevent gelling. And there's no problem with having #1 in the tank when the weather gets warmer.

Engine oil - Kubota is behind in updating manuals. You probably can't find API CC or CD oil anymore; those are obsolete ratings. Nothing wrong with the CG4-CF, although I believe the most up-to-date rating is CH-4.

So you only drained one plug for the engine oil?/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif I can't imagine that happening./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I drained both mine the first time - and then missed one of the drains for the hydraulic oil./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif Look at page 54 of the manual carefully. There are 4 drain plugs in addition to the 2 strainers and filter.

Bird

 

[bsauter]

M. Sullivan, what part of the country do you live in? I bought chains for my old B2150 w/ turfs and never even put them on! I live in central Indiana and our snows are just moderate. Do you live where you get a lot of snow? If so than get the chains but if you are like me you might wait and see if you really need them. My B2150 did much better than I thought it would with the turfs and 4WD. I was told to get the rear chains and don't bother with the front. Just a thought if you want to save a little money.

BTW, I still have the chains and will sell them but gotta see what size rear tire they are for.

Brad, Kubota L3010HST, loader, R4 tires
Pictures at http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=179207&a=9183978

 

[TomG]

It won't be too long before 14F is a warm day here. I've got a gravel drive and do most snow removal with a 3ph blower. I do use a loader before the gravel freezes and for several areas where the blower can't be used.

For the most part, I had OK traction last winter with turf tires. There is a limit to how much snow I can push with the loader, and I could use a little more steering making a turn off the highway entrance. However, it worked OK without chains.

There is some controversy regarding using front, rear or both chains. At least two dealers told me not to use front only chains, especially on frozen gravel. They said it's hard on the front drive train. However, some people said they've used chains on the front wheels only for years without problems. Chains on the front would improve steering, which can be a problem, especially if front mounted blades or blowers are used.

Regarding fuel. I use an anti-gel additive and conditioner. There is some power loss using straight #1 diesel, and mixing fuel isn't my favourite chore. However, I believe there are 'celtane booster' additives for increasing the power from diesel fuels. Of course, if I'm worrying about having too little traction, than some less power isn't much of an issue.

Anyway, I figure no matter what I do, I'll still need an additive. The usual reasons for additives are condensation and injector pump lubrication. So, I'll probably just keep using the 'one thing does everything' product and keep buying #2 diesel.

 

[bpence]

You may want to go to www.tirechains.com and see what they have for the size tires on your B2710. I ordered a set of rears for my B7100 from them and they were about $100 less than either of the dealers I usually buy from.

Bob Pence

 

[Corm]

I use chains on the front of my tractor up here in Northern Vt. I have all 4 R4s loaded with antifreeze. The chains on the front wheels made an amazing amount of difference, especially for the added steering ability when using the rear blade angled to one side. I made up my own chains, using old truck chains that our town road crew were ready to throw away. I bought a pair of chain pliers from Gempler's and spent an hour or so making up the chains. They work great, there is still pleny of life left in them for my use, and the price was right! I also made up a set for the rear ties, but have never needed them.

 

[RobB7300]

I used chains on the front only, last winter on my B7300 however, I took them off after I read that they may cause wear on the front end. I agree that they made a big difference. It's probably one of those things that if used in moderation no harm will come. With the ability to lift up the front end with the fel, putting on and taking off the chains is not a big chore. I guess I will go back to using them in the dead of winter here in upstate NY when the ground is frozen and there is some "slippage" . That will give me the extra steering that I need.