Good afternoon, all,
I recently added a IH B275 to the work team. The price was good; thus, the condition was way below par.
Researching for exactly what model this B275 was, became very interesting! All data I could find indicates that the last B275 manufactured had a serial number of around 53 000, give or take as per this extract. This one however, however sported a number from quite a bit later! Assembled from NOS (new of the shelf) parts? Interesting!
There is /was quite a bit of repair work on the tractor but at least it starts, although it sounds like it has a little bit of either exhaust valve or injector issue, once running. A caveat, this tractor is meant to work on the farm, thus I was not aiming to restore it to an "almost-new" condition and or resell but rather as a reliable workhorse.
Some of the challenges are /were:
*Bonnet hinges broken out of the bonnet,
*no air filter at all,
*small leaks on the injectors,
*wiring and ignition switch was shot,
*bonnet catches on the installed alternator,
*the right-hand lift arm adjustor was badly bent & siezed and the hand lever broken off,
*internal leak on the hydraulic pump (the sump was over filled, indicating the high-pressure seal on the pump nose is bypassing and thus filling the engine sump with hydraulic oil!),
*slop on the right hand steering-arm, connecting to the wheel king pin,
*loose radiator.
Thus, the bonnet has been repaired by bending up new hat-sections, welding in the nuts to act as anchor nuts and MIG welding to the bonnet, stainless steel bolts with shanks and brass washers fulfill the "hinge job". The bonnet hold arm was no longer there, thus 1/4' cables were brought in to hold the bonnet. Bonnet done!
The injector leaks were easy to sort, mainly needed tightening, the electric system was rewired, the ignition switch replaced with a new "cheapie"---(Note to self: I will regret that soon!) and a start solenoid and push-button switch was introduced into the glow plug heating system, (working like a charm!). Switch on the ignition, press the push-button switch for 30 seconds, turn the ignition switch to start, the starter whirls and the engine springs to life! Perfect!!
The radiator was removed, the shroud fixed, bent radiator-frame corrected, M12 cup squared inserted in the mounts and bolted to the tractor "chassis" - perfect! The Hydraulic pump was stripped, and after a long search, found high pressure Viton seals, inserted and reassembled. The shaft does have some wear marks, so we will have to see the worth of this repair. The bonus however is that the hydraulic oil alternative is SAE 20, thus compatible with the 15W30 engine oil used.
When tackling the steering slop, the only way was to cut the slot all the way through the arm, thus bolted down with a fresh 8.8 grade bolt, it is now as good as new. Shopping around for an air filter (yes, it is supposed to be an oil-bath) proved frustrating in that that OEM "stealers" were charging and arm-and-leg for it. So, enter the Chinese: I bought an entire filter housing, two enclosed filters and a pre cleaner for less than a quarter of the price of a local one. Best of all is, it fits perfectly, even in the original filter clamp, although I had opted to use the one supplied.
More later, cheers.
I recently added a IH B275 to the work team. The price was good; thus, the condition was way below par.
Researching for exactly what model this B275 was, became very interesting! All data I could find indicates that the last B275 manufactured had a serial number of around 53 000, give or take as per this extract. This one however, however sported a number from quite a bit later! Assembled from NOS (new of the shelf) parts? Interesting!
| B-275 Serial Numbers | |
| 1958 | 501 |
| 1959 | 633 |
| 1960 | 12161 |
| 1961 | 29468 |
| 1962 | 39540 |
| 1963 | 43120 |
| 1964 | 46418 |
| 1965 | 48977 |
| 1966 | 51040 |
| 1967 | 52933 |
| 1968 | 54712 |
There is /was quite a bit of repair work on the tractor but at least it starts, although it sounds like it has a little bit of either exhaust valve or injector issue, once running. A caveat, this tractor is meant to work on the farm, thus I was not aiming to restore it to an "almost-new" condition and or resell but rather as a reliable workhorse.
Some of the challenges are /were:
*Bonnet hinges broken out of the bonnet,
*no air filter at all,
*small leaks on the injectors,
*wiring and ignition switch was shot,
*bonnet catches on the installed alternator,
*the right-hand lift arm adjustor was badly bent & siezed and the hand lever broken off,
*internal leak on the hydraulic pump (the sump was over filled, indicating the high-pressure seal on the pump nose is bypassing and thus filling the engine sump with hydraulic oil!),
*slop on the right hand steering-arm, connecting to the wheel king pin,
*loose radiator.
Thus, the bonnet has been repaired by bending up new hat-sections, welding in the nuts to act as anchor nuts and MIG welding to the bonnet, stainless steel bolts with shanks and brass washers fulfill the "hinge job". The bonnet hold arm was no longer there, thus 1/4' cables were brought in to hold the bonnet. Bonnet done!
The injector leaks were easy to sort, mainly needed tightening, the electric system was rewired, the ignition switch replaced with a new "cheapie"---(Note to self: I will regret that soon!) and a start solenoid and push-button switch was introduced into the glow plug heating system, (working like a charm!). Switch on the ignition, press the push-button switch for 30 seconds, turn the ignition switch to start, the starter whirls and the engine springs to life! Perfect!!
The radiator was removed, the shroud fixed, bent radiator-frame corrected, M12 cup squared inserted in the mounts and bolted to the tractor "chassis" - perfect! The Hydraulic pump was stripped, and after a long search, found high pressure Viton seals, inserted and reassembled. The shaft does have some wear marks, so we will have to see the worth of this repair. The bonus however is that the hydraulic oil alternative is SAE 20, thus compatible with the 15W30 engine oil used.
When tackling the steering slop, the only way was to cut the slot all the way through the arm, thus bolted down with a fresh 8.8 grade bolt, it is now as good as new. Shopping around for an air filter (yes, it is supposed to be an oil-bath) proved frustrating in that that OEM "stealers" were charging and arm-and-leg for it. So, enter the Chinese: I bought an entire filter housing, two enclosed filters and a pre cleaner for less than a quarter of the price of a local one. Best of all is, it fits perfectly, even in the original filter clamp, although I had opted to use the one supplied.
More later, cheers.
