b2910 flasher/hazard fuse shorting out

dlabrie · Oct 30, 2018

I was working on my road with the flashers going when the 20 amp, flasher/hazard fuse blew. I replaced it and it blew when I turned the flashers on again. If I am reading my meter correctly, I have continuity between the + wire going to the flashers and ground . I can't see anything wrong with the wires coming from the back of the tractor to the flashers. Where should I look next? Could it be the flasher switch or module? If so, how do I access it then check it? Also, how do you pull the plug apart that goes to the tail lights?
I can't remember if my directionals were the tail lights or flashers. The tail lights are working but I have no directionals.
Thanks

flyerdan · Oct 30, 2018

If you have continuity (0 or nearly 0 ohms) that would indicate that the power lead is shorting to ground somewhere.
Chances are there is a pinched wire loom going to one of the flashers, you could find it by replacing the fuse and trying the individual turn signals. One should work and the one with the problem should pop the fuse. Or, you could pull the bulbs and check the wire for the bright filament to ground.
Those tests are for if the wiring looms aren't readily visible for inspection; if you have to disassemble a bunch of stuff to get to the looms it helps to at least narrow it down to a side.

gimmodog · Oct 30, 2018

you should have continuity from the pos to ground. The continuity is thru the bulbs. Take the bulbs out then test for resistance. Should have no continuity with bulbs out.

BubbaJr · Oct 31, 2018

Turn signals and hazard flashers use the same lights.

Joe

dlabrie · Oct 31, 2018

OK. I took both flasher lights off and tested them on a 12 volt battery, they work fine.

with the lights disconnected, I checked for continuity across the + and - wires going to each side, and each side showed continuity between the wires.

Where do I check next, the flasher?

I also just ordered some more fuses.

countryguy1225 · Oct 31, 2018

Your Serivce manual can be found here..
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...df&AutoIndex=398efa88db0861411c4606a7c4636347

download and in the wiring section you can see the layout. it'll also tell you all the wire coloring layouts. then you can locate the right plugs and wires easier when you dig into those small spaces. Take a bright flashlight out. I will suspect a wire rub or melt to ground someplace if you removed the flasher unit and hazard relay.

We like to note continuity and ohms here a lot. If you can, tell us if you your meter test shows some ohms over just a continuity beeper.
A DC light should have current limiting resistor someplace so when it turns on, the short is more of limiting current flow w/ (say 100ohms) Its very possible some of these things are looping around in parallel on the wiring diagram. Things in parallel will have you reading 0 ohms and reading like a dead short, unless you remove any/all bulbs in parallel or start unplugging things.

so there are a LOT of LINES on the print. Too small for me to trace around and paste together. let us know what you find.

gimmodog · Oct 31, 2018

dlabrie said:
OK. I took both flasher lights off and tested them on a 12 volt battery, they work fine.

with the lights disconnected, I checked for continuity across the + and - wires going to each side, and each side showed continuity between the wires.

Where do I check next, the flasher?

I also just ordered some more fuses.

when I read this I'm thinking that you are using a continuity light that lights up when it is connected to 12v and ground to test with. If that is the case then it should light up because it is connected to 12v and ground. I could be misunderstanding your post. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If you are drawing excessive amps I think it would be hard to find why with this type of tester.

countryguy1225 · Nov 1, 2018

I was walking back up yesterday and was thinking about this as well. I think the test across the two bulb leads is part 1 of 2... the other test I would do is putting 1 lead on a socket wire and then to ground. Then 1 lead on the other socket wire and then to ground. On each socket in the path. So your checking both of the bulb wires to ground. Since you don't know which wire is part of ground, and which is the hot lead until you dig into the print a bit. And even then I would unplug the socket and then do this same test at the connector ... 1 lead to connector pin , other to ground.. This will be an elimination event IMO. Thoughts...

gimmodog said:
when I read this I'm thinking that you are using a continuity light that lights up when it is connected to 12v and ground to test with. If that is the case then it should light up because it is connected to 12v and ground. I could be misunderstanding your post. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If you are drawing excessive amps I think it would be hard to find why with this type of tester.

countryguy1225 · Nov 1, 2018

Not to hijack.. but I'm in the toughest decision since marriage. (shhhh..... ) Do I buy a M5560 or the M6060.. LOL. Making a choice this week. Will go up Sat. I have the thread posted on Orange buying forum.. but I'm just trying to get on and read posts a lot to idle my brain a bit and help fix something for folks along the way.

Peace.. cg.

countryguy1225 said:
I was walking back up yesterday and was thinking about this as well. I think the test across the two bulb leads is part 1 of 2... the other test I would do is putting 1 lead on a socket wire and then to ground. Then 1 lead on the other socket wire and then to ground. On each socket in the path. So your checking both of the bulb wires to ground. Since you don't know which wire is part of ground, and which is the hot lead until you dig into the print a bit. And even then I would unplug the socket and then do this same test at the connector ... 1 lead to connector pin , other to ground.. This will be an elimination event IMO. Thoughts...

dlabrie · Nov 1, 2018

Thank you all for the responses. Let me try to be more clear on what I have tried. I don't know that much about electrical, ohms, etc.

What think I understand is that the positive Gw (Green white) and Rw wires going to the lights should show no continuity to ground when not plugged into the light sockets.

I have the lights removed, they work fine on their own. The fuse is removed. When I use the turn signal, the flasher clicks in both directions.

I am using a small electric meter set to the continuity setting, it sort of looks like this (->|). The meter reads '1' when the leads are not together. When they are together, the number changes; I have not taken note of the numbers when testing the wires but will the next time. I put the + lead on the Gw wire, and the - lead to ground, the number on the meter changes which I assume means there is continuity. I also do it with the B (black) wire coming to each side and the number changes because that is ground to ground. I do the same on the other side with the Rw wire and the number changes as well.

So If I am understanding this correctly, both positive wires going to my lights are grounding out somewhere.

If I need to look anything under the dash, how to I get it open?