Mowing b2910 mid-mount mower

glennmac · Jun 29, 2001

The 2910 mmm is connected to the 3ph arms. So it moves up and down with the 3ph, and you control its height with the 3ph lever. You simply raise it up as high as it will go when you are transporting it. You also can pin it up. But you would only want to do this when you have another implement on the 3ph that you are using. For example, you could have a brush cutter on the tractor at the same time as the mmm. To be able to raise and lower the cutter without the mmm raising and lowering at the same time, you pin the mmm. You cannot do the reverse on the Kubota, however. That is, you can't pin up the cutter on the 3ph and then raise and lower the mmm--as far as I know. Additionally, the mmm pins are very difficult on my 2910 to insert and remove, so I have never used them.

JD has a much better design for multi-implement use. Their mmm is completely independent of the 3ph. You can raise/lower either one without affecting the other.

MReeter · Jun 30, 2001

Glenn,sorry,I was a little vague about some things,I was headed out the door to work when I made the post.I use 3- 2"x6"x12" blocks stacked on top of one another between the front edge of the deck and front tires.The blocks help the front tires "climb" up on top of the deck.You can use a couple of 2"x6" and a 2"x4" block on top to stagger the "bridge". Von's method will work very well also,I use a floor jack to remove the deck from under our G1900,But my jack doesn't have enough reach to work on our 2710. I've tried using a block on top of the jack craddle,but still can't get the front of the tractor high enough to remove the deck without removing the front linkage,so I just drive over it.

glennmac · Jul 2, 2001

I tried the drive over technique this weekend and it works, even though I was using a jury rig of small logs and a rotten 2x4 for ramps. The only downside of this technique is the need to lower the gauge wheels. I wonder if there is a way to build a ramp such that you dont have to lower the wheels.

Mike, do you ever drive over the deck with your loader on? I'm wondering if the extra weight of the loader would cause too much of a load on the deck. The manual doesnt address this.

Von, I didnt realize you had done all your previous mowing with a 3ph mower. I'd be very interested to know your impressions of the 2 mowing techniques. Sometimes I have thoughts of giving up the belly mower and going to a 3ph.

MReeter · Jul 3, 2001

Glenn,I wouldn't recommend driving over the deck without the gauge wheels all the way up.If the casters are in normal position you take a good chance of "springing" the deck.The center would be bowed downward.I guess you could try putting some blocks under the edge of the deck to help support it,but then the tractor has to climb that much higher to come up and over the deck.I know this way of removing the deck takes some time at first,but like anything else,with practice it really becomes pretty easy.And,no I don't run over the deck with the loader attached,because of the added weight.I have used the loader to assist in deck removal,this process works fine also,as long as your on a good flat surface.

toddler · Jul 3, 2001

Glenn,
I have a b2710 with the 60"mmm. The pins to lock it up are, or were, a pain to use. The good news is that the lift height is adjustable. If you adjust the lift so the deck has a tiny bit of wiggle at deck/hitch fully up, just a couple of mm's, then you can reach under with a pin in one handand with just a bit of pressure or lift at the deck edge, line up the pin holes. It's still an awkward reach, but it takes me less than a minute total now for both pins. Can't do it gloved, because I put the pins in cotter pin end out, and I always get greased, but still, it's easier than what you're describing.
Todd

glennmac · Jul 3, 2001

Mike, you're probably right on all counts. Although when the caster wheels are in the lowest position, the deck is not touching the ground.

MReeter · Jul 3, 2001

You are also right,in my first post I stated I do this type of removal either on gravel or grass,I usually remove it in the grass,this way the casters "settle" down to where the deck is on the solid ground.I don't remove the deck all that often,as the main use of our 2710 is for mowing.Good luck,there is more than one way to skin a cat,just depends on how you hold its tale.

glennmac · Jul 15, 2001

Thought I would report on some further experiences with my 72" belly mower.

1. Drive over technique. I have been doing this and it works great. I bought two metal automobile wheel chocks that have traction grips on them. I use them as a "ramp" for the front wheels--what Mike uses the wood blocks for. First, while the deck is on the tractor, I turn the wheels sideways, then I lower the deck onto soft ground. Put the chock-ramps in place. I dont even lower the gauge wheels. (I cut at 2 1/2", so that is almost to the bottom anyway.) Put the tractor in 4wd and it drives right over. I dont see any greater potential for damaging the deck than when the gauge wheels are an inch lower, because the deck is still not touching the ground then either. This is definitely as fast as a 3ph mount, but not faster than a Freedom Hitch mount.

2. Deck pin up. I have had great difficulty inserting the bent clevis pins to hold the hitch arms up, and even greater difficulty in inserting the hairpin in the clevis. I bought two 6" long. half inch hitch pins with a handle on the end to use instead of the clevis pins. They insert and remove easier because they are much longer and have a handle and also because they are tapered at the tip. The hairpin is still an impossibility, but I am working on a simple chain or string that can loop through the hitch pin handle and keep the hitch pin from falling out.

3. "Suspending" the deck. The gauge wheels of this ground contact deck can rut the very soft soil near my creek. I experimented today with simply raising the deck wheels about an inch off the ground with the position control and leaving it in that suspended position. (I have to mow higher here anyway because of roots and small cut stumps.) This worked very well. No ruts and an excellent cut.

4. Irregular wheel heights. My garage floor is the only thing I have that should be level. When I drop the deck, all the wheels are on the ground except the front right wheel, which is about 1/2" off the ground. I don't know what to do about this.

5. Deck of the year award. I have been looking at 30-40 hp tractors recently and I feel I am pretty familiar with all the 60" and 72" belly decks from Kubota (from the BX up) and from JD. I would say that the 2710/2910 72" deck is overall the best of the lot. There are none easier to remove and install. Nothing is simpler than the 3 spring pins on the 27/2910 72" deck, and you cant drive over the JD's. There are no decks easier to maneuver when on the ground because of the 4 rotating gauge wheels. Even though a 60" deck is smaller and lighter, the lack of 4 rotating wheels make all of them overall less maneuverable when on the ground. And, of course, the 72" width is superior to a 60" width for all purposes in my book.

Von · Jul 16, 2001

Glenn,
For an even better way to pin up your deck, try a long rod that slides thru both holes. I made one that is long enough to go all the way thru and is pinned on the opposite side. Only takes a second to use this and is so simple I'm surprised Kubota does not do it this way. I guess they don't because the rod will not fit in the tool box.