B3000HSDCC Lights/ Electrical "Relay" ?

[TimP]

Hi All.

I have a B3000HSDCC with a set of OEM work lights on the front and the back.

I want to swap them out with LED work lights but want to know if the light switch circuits have a "Relay" already or not.

I suspect they may, but don't know. Each set of work lights is (I'm Just guessing) 70 watts (35Watt each light ???). so for both sets it's 140 watts.

When the Wattage/Amperage starts getting larger, a relay is often used.

But it's also possible that each lighting switch is on it's own circuit, so not as much Amps on each circuit.

Thanks for any help.

 

[RjCorazza]

On my L4060 cab one 15a circuit covers front and rear work lights. Comes out to about 11 amps for the factory 35w lights x4.
I don’t think a relay is necessary on your tractor, particularly if you stay with reasonable sized led replacements. I put (4) 54w led work lights on and the difference is nothing short of incredible.

That said, in hindsight I would have been satisfied with smaller led’s in the 20-30w range.

 

[moship]

If you swap out your halogen work lights for LEDS you will not have to do anything except remove the old and replace with new. The wattage claims of the LED lights is overly exaggerated. I've measured a number of different ones and haven't come close to the claimed current draw.

I changed out the cab lights on the B3030 (very similar to your B3000) without any issues. Since the stock lights were not going to be used, the wire lead was removed and soldered to the new LEDS to make it a plug and play. Did have to make a small offset bracket to lower the LED a bit to protect from limbs. 1x1/8" flat stock bent in a vise worked perfectly.

The 36 watt style worked nicely to replace the Kubota ones.

Remember the halogen bulbs pull approximately 55 watts each and the 36 watt LEDs only pull 26 watts or a bit over 2 amps. (See attachments)

Hope this helps

 

[TimP]

Hi moship.

Thanks for the insights. I was hoping it would be simple, and it sounds like it will be.

The biggest problem appears to be the connections.

I have been pondering whether I want to hack the old lights connectors off or try something different.

I wonder if Kubota sells any replacement connectors so I don't have to cut the old lights up.

I kind of doubt it though. I may try to go to a local electronics store to see if I can find those connectors.

According to the parts listings, the oem Kubota work lights are 35 watt. I thought they were higher wattage than that, but that's what I found in several places. So the LED's should be much brighter.

I bought some high end RIGID LED Dually D2's, that I used on my B2150 and will now mount them on the B3000.

Thanks Again.

 

[TimP]

I went to my local Kubota dealer today and asked about getting some connectors to match the existing work light connectors.

The told me that the work lights come as a complete unit with the connectors already attached and they had no source for the connectors.

I guess I'll have to figure out some other way to make the connections.

Some LED lights use the Deutsch waterproof connectors (at least mine do).

Maybe I should cut the connectors off of the tractors side and splice in a Deutsch connector?

 

[RjCorazza]

I personally do like like connectors unless necessary for removable items. Why not just solder the wires and heat shrink them?
That’s what I did when I swapped out the oem lights for the led lights.

 

[War Eagle 2]

I used insulated spade connectors and installed them in place of the factory connectors and installed them on the lights as well. Makes a simple connect and disconnect operation if you need to remove the lights for service or ???

When I installed the insulated spade connectors I made sure one male and one female connector was placed on the tractor leads and of course one male and female connector on each wire from the lights. Then hook up is always the same and no polarity problems. Some LEDs are polarity sensitive.

I also used 35 watt LEDs and there is no relay or unique hookup requirements needed.