B3030 ROPS light project

[bandit67]

OK, here's another ROPS light project. I figured since I can never get enough pics of TBNers projects, I may as well add some of my own.

I started out with 4 of those HF 55w halogen vehicle work lights that I got on sale for $6.99 each. I figure I can always replace them down the road with something more expensive if they don't last, but a buddy has a pair on his dog box for his sled dogs, and they've held up for 3 years of fall and winter driving, mag chloride, salt, etc.

First order of business was to come up with as clean a mounting bracket design as possible, without welding anything, as I do not yet have any welding equipment. After looking at lots of pics, staring at raw materials at various hardware stores, etc., I came up with a design.

I bought a 3' section of 1" square steel welding tube at Lowe's (HD has the same stuff), then picked up two 3"x4" square "U" bolts at our local Ace Hardware, as they had a better selection than HD or Lowe's did. I also got some square plastic furniture leg caps from the hardware store, as Lowe's & HD didn't stock the caps for the 1" tubes (they stock caps for 3/4" & 1 1/4" square tube). And some 3/8" round vinyl endcaps to cover the ends of the "U" bolts. I primed and painted the square tube and most of the "U" bolts, except for the threaded ends, as screwing the nuts on would strip most of the paint off anyway, and finished with Rustoleum's matching grey spray enamel. I have a can each of Kubota Orange and Grey, but am saving those for touchups on the tractor itself.

I just ordered a pair of L48 light switches from my dealer (Brady Barlow). The switch idea came from Stef, a fellow TBNer. They are the only weather proof switches that will fit on the B3030 dash panel, since I want a separate switch for the front pair and the rear pair. And, it'll look factory. They ran about $30 more than any of the lighted weatherproof marine switches I found online, which were cheaper than any that I could get locally, but again, 2 switches wouldn't fit neatly on the dash panel.

Brackets are done and lights are mounted. Wiring, complete with relays, will begin once the switches arrive. Since I'll be travelling on some dirt roads to plow out some neighbors, I plan to also add a 12v accessory plug that I will tap into the existing rear worklight wires, so I can run an LED amber flasher.

Here are some pics of the work in progress:

 

[LRH]

Looks good, and there's no reason to think the lamp assy's won't last; 10 years parked in the weather might make the look bad but they will still work. Good idea on the relays; keeps those expensive switches from arcing contacts and melting even though the load is moderate. One trick I use and you might give it a try, get rid of the supplied nuts and lockwashers, and replace with flat washers and locknuts and maybe a nylon washer on the bolt that the lamp swivels L&R on since you can preload the bolt enough where they hold the position, yet you can adjust as needed, if needed without tools.

 

[bandit67]

I have a package of flat washers I plan to install once all the wiring and setup is complete, and I was planning on putting Locktite on everything, along with using the lock washers. I've had nylon lock nuts unscrew due to vibration in the cold weather in the past, so I don't quite trust them.

 

[LRH]

Nylocks can dry out, harden and back off like you say; I usually use the crimped interference style locking nuts with the distorted head, they will not back off but the preload adjustment can be tweaked so lamps can be moved a little through the range of adjusment with just one hand, but vibration will not move them. Locktite works well also.

EDIT: do you have the part number handy for the switches you used?

 

[Danno1]

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I have a suggestion, if you have no overhead clearance issues.

If you reverse the position of the 1" sq tube (put it above the ROPS), you would have less hardware to hit your head against. Just the smooth curve of the u-bolts. The lights would be ~3" higher but that can be a good thing (again, if no clearance issues).

.

 

[bandit67]

That's how I originally set it up, but decided that the lights would not be as exposed to getting damaged by tree limbs, etc. if they were set a little lower and in front of the ROPS, plus they were really up there with the square bar on top, and didn't look right.

I've climbed on and off the backhoe seat a number of times trying to see if there would be a head-knocker situation. There doesn't appear to be (if I was 6'-2" it might be a problem). I added the vinyl caps to the "U" bolt heads 'just in case'. Of course, final location will ultimately depend on the light beams once I hook up all the wiring.

 

[medicshawn]

The switch PN 36919-54222. Just be aware they run 30-35 dollars.

 

[bandit67]

Already have the switches. You're right, they're not cheap, but they are the only switches I could find that will fit 2 of them in the dash, which is where I want them.

Heck, the relays ran $14 each - probably could have found them online a little cheaper, but we're getting a little to close to snow season, and I need everything ready for the 1st snow - have a lot of plowing to do. Only place I saved on this project was with the HF halogen lights, which can be replaced with expensive lights at a later date if I desire. Based on past experience, after a winter of plowing in the dark and having good lighting front and back, the up-front cost to install them becomes a non-issue.

 

[InspectorGadget]

I have a package of flat washers I plan to install once all the wiring and setup is complete, and I was planning on putting Locktite on everything, along with using the lock washers. I've had nylon lock nuts unscrew due to vibration in the cold weather in the past, so I don't quite trust them.

Very nice job. It looks professional.
Where did you get the plugs for the 1" tubing?
I am inspired.
Thanks C-YA RL

 

[bandit67]

Found them at the local hardware store, because for some reason, HD didn't have them. They had the plugs for the 3/4" and 1 1/4" square tubes, but no 1" tube plugs. The ones I found are for metal furniture legs.