B3030 turns over, but will not start. Help? :)

[Egon]

The initial post does not mention if you ran the tractor low or out of fuel. Best to have more than one tractor. I have four at this time and can usually get one started to boost another lol.

Having a heatable parking spot with electricity available might be easier?

To the OP; make sure all the screens on the fuel delivery system are clean and the lines flushed. Bleed the system as you go along finishing after the injection pump. Even look in the tank for debris. Don't know about availability of power or heated parking, but, getting a block or inline heater installed should help. A tarp can be thrown over the tractor with a small heater underneath will also work. If possible drain the bottom of the fuel tank on a regular basis. Using a heat gun or hair dryer on the fuel lines and then the intake manifold may also help. Use a self regulating charger on the battery when the tractor is parked.

Also ensure all the fuses and shutoff switches are in proper working order. In the cold crud build up may stop conductivity.

Last but not least note that I'm not a mechanic and have limited trouble shooting skills especially with the electrical systems.

 

[ainsley]

Thanks guys, for the extra input.

My WSM says that the technique for bleeding the lines is to start it and run it for 30 seconds. :mur: We were able to eventually get it started twice, so the lines have been bled, but we still had problems starting a day later. Also, I cleaned the fuel filter and did look in the tank for debris. Starter fluid is not recommended for my 3030.

Yesterday we took the battery to get it tested, and it was 'holding charge' they said, but not a full charge. Since it was 7 years old, I bought a new one. My son put it in yesterday and it started. It will be -3 degrees tonight, so tomorrow will be the test to see if that remedies the problem. We have a block heater, so I will plug that in tonight, too. Although, I have had this tractor several years, and we have had negative temps and it started every time until now. So, I don't think the heater will change much if it is back to normal. It is kept in a barn normally, but not a heated barn. It is in the garage now, but still not heated.

-Ainsley

 

[JerryK]

Should put the wife out in the barn and move the tractor into the house.... !!!!! [ THAT will go over well... ]

 

[ainsley]

Well, I may try that, JerryK. One more question, though: Since I am a girl, and my spouse is a girl, which one of us should move to the barn?

:wave:

-Ainsley

 

[JerryK]

Well, I may try that, JerryK. One more question, though: Since I am a girl, and my spouse is a girl, which one of us should move to the barn?

:wave:

-Ainsley

Don't really matter, either way you loose......

 

[ainsley]

Well, it started, and a good thing it did cuz we got half a foot of snow yesterday. But still turns over longer than normal before it does start. Maybe I am just being picky, but one weird thing I notice is that it seems to fire over at the point the key is released. Almost like it isn't getting something until the key approaches the on position in the ignition when we are about to give up on it starting. My son seems adamant that there could be an issue there. Any insight to that, or are we crazy?

-Ainsley

 

[JerryK]

Not sure about your key thing.... but I will second that ' you're crazy ' thing. One thing I have learned in my 67 years on this planet, is that we are all crazy in some shape or form....

Diesels that usually start in the warmer summer temps with a couple seconds of cranking may take five seconds or more of cranking in the winter. Depends on how long you cycle your grid heater or glow plugs, too. You have to get the fuel/air mixture up to a certain temp for one of the cyls to start firing... and usually the crank speed is lower because of thicker oil/etc. So, what you are discribing, not including the key thing, is fairly normal. Goood luck, Jerry...

 

[skyhook]

Its not that big of a deal to change the ignition switch, for peace of mind and your son's insight,
change it.

 

[My Hoe]

Subscribed. I think you're doing GREAT, Ainsely, and with the expertise on this site, and your methodical, analytical approach, you will most likely get to the bottom of this yourself.

Good luck!

My Hoe

 

[davesl708]

Well, it started, and a good thing it did cuz we got half a foot of snow yesterday. But still turns over longer than normal before it does start. Maybe I am just being picky, but one weird thing I notice is that it seems to fire over at the point the key is released. Almost like it isn't getting something until the key approaches the on position in the ignition when we are about to give up on it starting. My son seems adamant that there could be an issue there. Any insight to that, or are we crazy?

-Ainsley

Ainsley, Something comes to mind when you mention it seems to start when you let off the key.
The fuel shutoff solenoid may be a two stage solenoid. That means when you turn the key to start one coil in the solenoid opens the fuel valve. When you let off the key the run coil keeps the valve open. I wonder if the start coil is bad and no fuel flows until you release the key and the run coil engages letting fuel flow before the engine finishes cranking.

Check your WSM to see if there is a test for the solenoid. It may be a simple ohm test on the two coils.